Thanks to some wonderful tour
guides and friends, I learned some of the complexities of this bustling city of
4 million. An additional 7 million commute to the city by train or bus for the
work week!
In Europe, our country is
considered young. In South America, independence is even more recent. Monuments
attest to the struggles and bravery. White scarves are painted on the ground of
the Plaza de Mayo. They represent the mothers who banded together to protest
the disappearance of their children by the military dictatorship from
1976-1983. There was a woman protesting while we were there.
The upcoming presidential
election is in the air. We saw flag-waving marchers in the streets on Sunday.
Will Cristina ‘s financial support of the poorest citizens win her the
election? Will her alleged deal with the Iranians lose it for her?
Pope Francis is terrific in
my book. So, it was a thrill to see his third floor flat next to the downtown
Cathedral. His presence in the city is less obvious than I imagined, but I did
take a picture of one statue and saw his photo in some shop windows. Only 5% of
the Catholics attend church on a regular basis.
The federal buildings in the
city center are grand in the impressive style of Paris and Rome. Luckily, our
Novotel Hotel is near a tall obelisk monument. This helps me find my way home
through the crowds and in the heat. When we arrived, we had a cold drink in the
inner courtyard where bright orange butterflies flew and alighted. I admired a 12x8
foot wall made of greens and flowering plants. A perfect backdrop to their
swimming pool. But then, we see the corrugated steel shacks for the poor spread
out next to the 5 star hotels. Another ‘city’ within the city is the famous
cemetery, Recoleta. Blocks and blocks of grand crypts complete with altars and
coffins. Each is different. The stone and ironwork are exquisite. Eva Peron’s
grave is a major attraction. If you have $130,000 to spend, you may buy an
abandoned crypt.
Buenos Aires is home to many
immigrants. The Boca section has brightly colored buildings and friendly
piazzas. We saw a tango demonstration there. Merchants sell their leather goods
nearby. Another section has preserved the cobblestone streets and is renovating
old buildings. Like Washington, D.C, Buenos Aires is a separate legal jurisdiction.
We experienced kindnesses
like Argentinians escorting me when I couldn’t understand their directions to a
nearby store. We experienced anger when a colleague’s purse was stolen from a
restaurant.
Delicious beefsteaks, sweetbreads,
churros dipped in hot chocolate, and empanadas are local specialties. A science
colleague, Marcelo and his wife, Brenda treated us to a barbecue dinner at Cabrera's.
Tasty tender beef followed by humongous brownies. We are a bit larger than when
we ate Mediterranean style in Edmonds?
Brenda and I toured the
light-filled impressive MALBA Latin American Art gallery. The Antonio Berni
exhibition occupied several rooms. I can better appreciate an artist when I see
his life’s work. Like Picasso, he had several different styles. The abstract
work was my favorite.
We ate lunch at MALBA then
headed to the controversial Eva Peron museum. The wife of the country’s
President, she was controversial in part because her charity work was
restricted to those of her husband’s political party. Still, thousands of
orphans benefitted from the housing, clothing, and schooling she inspired. The
museum shows films from her era. Her style was charismatic. Her early death at
33 from cancer adds poignancy to her story.
Across town, rows and rows of
craft booths attract weekend shoppers. Many of the venders have Monday-Friday
jobs. The prices are low once we divide the number of pesos by 8.
Side Day Trip to San Isidro and Tigre’ with Buenos
Aires Taxi Guide
San Isidro
San Isidro is a gorgeous
‘suburb’. Some lucky people commute from the lush greenery, beautiful beaches, stately
homes, fine restaurants and shops to Buenos Aires 30 minutes by train. Or, they
can hop on the shoreline train for a weekend outing. I was struck by the
plentiful shade trees in Argentina. Weeping willow branches sway gently in the
breeze. Lovely! We drove past a horse racetrack and fields of pampas grass. I
must be in Argentina!
A buff personal trainer was
working with a client outside the gym near the beach as we drove by. Locals
were searching for a shady spot to spend the day and picnic.
Tigre’
We rode a catamaran through
many islands bordered by tropical plants in the Delta. Cottages of all sizes
appear through the brush along the river, each with a long dock. Supermarket
boats deliver goods including lots and lots of charcoal for barbecuing. There
is only boat access from the islands. Courier boats deliver the mail. A
renowned architect’s home is preserved by encasing it in glass. Funky. Sound
idyllic? Consider there is no Internet connection. Could be some people’s
paradise and others’ hell.
The fruit is delicious and
fresh. I enjoyed a giant drink of Mango juice in the outdoor market. Row after
row of separate stalls selling handmade goods. The smell of furniture making is
so pleasant. The low prices ($80 for a wooden sofa with thick leather cushions)
entice. We walked the formal gardens of a grand white ‘mansion’ that used to be
a casino. A model was being photographed near the scenic river and flowers.
This area feels like an oasis. In these wealthy communities, the parking rate
signs list the charities that will benefit from the fee. Cool idea!
Mike finishes his term on the
ICCBA Board with this meeting. Yes, we are slowing down a bit re: international
travel. Unbelievably, we flew from Seattle to London to Barcelona to London to
Buenos Aires to London to Seattle on British Air. Many hours in flight and in
airports.
The friendships we have made
make it all worthwhile. What a group of generous, intelligent people! We see
each other once or twice a year, share meals and travel nightmares. We will
miss them!
