Oporto, Portugal 2006

                                                            Portugal 2006

We started our trip in style with business class seats upstairs in the Boeing 747 where it’s private and peaceful. The Sheraton in Oporto is very new, very young, with sleek glass elevators, and a humongous breakfast buffet that includes chocolate truffles!

Our first day was sunny, but cool. We walked to town enjoying the park along the Douro River. Several peacocks greeted us. We passed one of Oporto’s famous bridges and admired the lovely wrought iron railings along the paths and gardens. There is a lot of construction. The new Metro is impressive.

Not knowing about the riverboat tours, we hired a driver to take us through the Douro Region. He was a young father, full of questions about parenting. We visited Amarante, a small quaint hillside town on the Tamega River. The streets are narrow and lined with Vinho verde vines.

On Sunday mornings, men gathered in the city center to catch up on the news. Women touched the nearby statue of Saint Goncalo asking him for a good man to marry. I took a photo next to him with the good man I found. (Mike)

At Quinta Da Pacheca vineyard we learned that Vintage Port is best, LBV contains vintage, Tawny is a blend and a less expensive port. Due to little rain, 2004 and 2005 were not good port years. A proper port glass is a goblet. We drove past Villa Real in a terraced valley.

It was fun to recognize Chateau Mateus from the wine label. The owners live in one side of this graceful chateau. We toured the other side plus the wonderful gardens with cedar trees trimmed into a long tunnel. I didn’t need much time in a room containing martyrs’ bones and a headless corpse. The carved wooden ceilings were worth examining. Each room had a different pattern.

The railway station is bedecked with tiles depicting the history of the region. We ate lunch in a small cafe, talked to a tall young waiter about his enthusiasm for basketball and Michael Jordon. The roasted kid (goat) and potatoes were delicious.

Casa Musica concert hall, designed by Rem Koohaas, is impressive.

Teens skateboarded on its ramps. St. Francis Church’s catacombs were oddly elegant black and white. The church was closed to worship as St. Francis preached detachment from worldly goods. His audience included wealthy locals who “bought” their way to heaven by gilding the church.

Lunch came with a view of the Douro River and laundry waving in the breeze from the nearby neighborhood: shrimp, fried eggs, tomato and rice - perfect.

                                    Minho Region

Bracelos is famous for a rooster, the legendary mascot of Portugal. A thief was released from a death sentence because he said the rooster would crow if I’m innocent. It did and he was free. This colorful rooster decorates pottery and other objects.

We visited Guillamea, the first capitol of Portugal. The castle of Dad’s xgreat grandfather, the first King and Duke of Burgundy, still stands. An adjacent palace is perfectly restored with painted ceilings and gorgeous woods, stone, furniture, porcelain and tapestries.

                  Contemporary Art Museum and Gardens

We saw an angry exhibit decrying the loss of innocents. The garden of camellias and magnolia trees soothed. After miles of walking, we earned an al fresco lunch in view of a lighthouse. The sun shone on my ham, sausage hero sandwich smothered in melted cheese and floating on my tomato soup.

Don’t miss Boa Nova seafood restaurant right at the ocean’s edge. It is built into the rocks.

         Museu Nacional de Soares Dos Reis ****

Housed in a perfectly restored mansion with 17c sculpture by Soares.

The porcelain and ceramics were a feast in blue. I ate lunch at Mesa Antiqua. It felt like I was eating in a private home: caldo verte soup of cabbage, broth, and olive oil, grilled trout, collard greens, red wine and homemade custard tart. Our host explained the prevalence of custard. The nuns used many egg whites to starch church linens, so they invented recipes to use up all those yolks.

I bought a silver and turquoise necklace in a shop near our hotel. An interpretation of southwest Native American jewelry with a Portuguese motif of silver leaves, Happy Birthday to me.

A cab ride to a restaurant was interrupted by the arrest of a handcuffed man in front of the Bento train station. Two women begged the taxi driver to let them in, out of the fray. They thanked us, and then assured me my destination restaurant was “Bom, Bom.”

Several times, when I asked locals for directions, they escorted me rather than just pointing. So gracious and practical, as I am definitely direction-challenged. I would say, “Por Favor” then add my destination.

         Tour and Dinner at the Ferreira Wine Caves in Gaia

This 250-year-old winery came with a charming guide, very cold rooms, and a huge multi-course dinner to walk off tomorrow. We danced to the Bossa Nova in the hotel lounge. The guitarist and chanteuse were from Brazil. She sang the sad fava laments. We left at midnight strolling in the golden light emitting from the stone buildings and towers.

                                    Porto City Tour

We rode along Boa Vista Blvd (with a Portuguese guide, a Welsh social worker and a Greek accountant!), past mansion after mansion. It’s too hard to see the gardens behind tall stone walls. We past the sea and reached Old Town Porto via a 12c Cathedral, a Port Wine Museum and a waterfront conference center housed in a stately granite building. Then, down famous Caterina Street of Shops to the artful Majestic Cafe where the Press (TV) were interviewing a famous local author, Agustina Bessa Luis.

Silver covers everything in the 12c cathedral. When Napoleon’s troops arrived, one man quickly made a plaster wall to hide this treasure. They were fooled. The bedazzling silver remains to this day.

                           How to Open a Bottle of 1983 Vintage Port

1.   Keep the wine horizontal for several years if you wish. Otherwise, drink it within 2 days of opening. Within 24 hours is better (and more fun?)

2.   Open and let air by removing the cork.

3.   Stand the bottle upright the day before opening so sediment falls to the bottom.

4.   Before drinking, decant.

5.   Serve with ham or yummy, soft, smooth Serra cheese-not sweets!

                 

                           Mike’s Scientific Meeting Venue

The lecture hall is in the Palácio da Bolsa Porto. This is the most elaborate and beautiful decor for a meeting room. There are ornate parquet floors plus gilded walls & ceiling painted Moorish style. Dinner is in the elegant atrium downstairs near the entrance. We moved from one elegant room to another for appetizers, then for dinner where we saw a sommelier open a 1997 Vintage Port by putting the bottle in a rack tilt it, hitting the neck with a tool, breaking the glass then removing the cork. Decanted with a flourish, of course. 

                                    UNESCO Recognition

In the mid 1990’s parts of Porto were designated historical districts and given some money to begin restoration. 5,000 buildings are in need of renovation partly due to a lack of funds.

Saturday morning we saw hoards of people at the local Puce (flea) market. They scrutinized used household items, some recent, some vintage. While at the coffeehouse near the U of Porto, we discussed politics with our host. She had been in university when the country was freed from Salazar’s dictatorship. She said it was the happiest day of her life. He kept Portugal primitive and subservient. Now the EU affiliation brings UN money and hope for the future. There is universal healthcare. Most elders live with their children.

We stopped at Lello Bookstore. What a beauty! This librarian was impressed with the fine wood, twisting staircase, stained glass and gleaming wooden shelves. A whimsical display included a bottle of Port in the wine book section.

VA (Viva & Allegria) sells Portuguese-made delicate porcelain, ceramics and jewelry. Some are reproductions. The public library is near Crystal Garden Park. It was improved with a mix of Portuguese and UN money. It has state of the art computers, shiny new books, and an elaborate menu of weekly children’s programs. Parents interacted with their children sharing books, writing together, playing with toys together. A very nice scene!

                           Embroidered Love Letters

Shepherd girls made colorful squares of cloth by embroidering available materials with simple poems, hearts, and flowers. They would give these to their heart’s desire. If he wore it in his pocket, they would know the fondness was reciprocal. The shops sell them today.

                                    Grand Finale

We joined a small group from the meetings: George and Matila (Portuguese), Gerard (Armenian living in London), Charles (Belgian), and Jean-Claude Faber (Luxembourg) for viewing the sunset over the ocean, then dining royally at a neighborhood restaurant. We watched them grill sardines out front, then listened as the menu offered many versions of sardines. Grilled with roasted potatoes, and served with green salad with a heavenly version of creme brûlée (touch of lemon), it was delicious.

Oporto is…relaxing, sunny, cordial, and proud of its heritage, open to new ways, humble, earnest, un-crowded, and recovering from 40 years of Salazar’s rule.

Greece 2002

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Greece 6/21-7/7/02

                                                            Athens

We look out our window at the Royal Olympic Hotel. There is Zeus’s temple all lit up in the night. This requires a momentary pause in our jet lag pity party. After our nap, we headed to the Plaka District. The sounds of singing & evangelizing floated through the sultry night. Michaelo’s served up fine caprese and even better people watching. We got a second wind. We were actually in Greece!

The signs of the 2004 Olympic preparation were everywhere. When we asked for directions, we often heard “It’s just 10 minutes straight ahead.” The street curves perplexingly. Mmmm. Will the Olympic crowds find their venues? Our friend, Sue, was hit and bruised by a motorcycle while crossing the street on a green light. Luckily, her long friendship with a Greek family kept this from being her dominant trip memory.

Near the charming Plaka, we ate gyros at an outdoor café. A woman shows us her hand embroidered tablecloth-white silk thread on white cotton- only 60 Euros. I said “No” for the next twenty minutes. Each time she approached, the price went down. When she reached 15 Euros I succumbed. Mildly stressful, seriously awkward lunch! (I gifted the cloth to my mother-in-law, and then later inherited it.)

The next day we made the hot, dusty, windy climb to the Parthenon. Seeing the intricate beauty of the caryatids holding up the temple walls made it all worth it. We walked down from the Acropolis to the Agora where SOPHOCLES taught and strolled- wow! A small museum displays ancient everythings including a cool machine with red and black balls determining who had a voice in their Senate. I smiled to see a 6-minute water clock. When a speaker began, the water was poured into the clock. When, in six minutes, it had flowed out, the speaker must stop.

Can you imagine hushing SOPHOCLES?

That evening we followed a winding path, got lost, but after climbing a fence and trudging through a field, we finally got to an outdoor concert pavilion under a full moon. A 4-piece band played while 20 elegantly costumed professional dancers demonstrated traditional dances from several parts of Greece. Over the years, I’ve been warned to avoid tourist traps. This seems misguided! I am a tourist. I don’t want to miss anything. These places are famous because they are awesome!

                                                Delphi

We took a bus tour north to arrive in Delphi for an overnight stay. After walking among the ruins of Apollo’s temple, sanctuary and stadium, the past really does seem present. The line between myth and fact is blurry indeed. Staring at the beautiful stone wall, I can imagine leaders approaching the Oracle of Delphi seeking advice and strategic advantages over the enemy. I stare back at the life–sized statue of a charioteer.

The Vouzas Hotel sits on a edge of a steep cliff above a deep valley full of olive trees. We sat on our little balcony admiring the full moon, listening to pleasant (unseen!) insects and relishing the cooler temperature of late night. Imagine skiing down nearby Mt. Parnassus.

All is quiet in the early morning. We hear tractors far away in the olive grove below us. Shops open late. The pizza in the nearby café is some of the best we’ve ever tasted. We ate there twice under a large Oak tree.

                                                Kalabaka /Meteora Monasteries

A lengthy bus trip along the Thessalonian Plain took us to the Divani Meteora Hotel beneath the mystical hilltop monasteries. Where else could you be so close to heaven?  In town we bought some gifts, tried our limited Greek and watched painters apply gold leaf to icons. A rainstorm freshened the air.

Yes! The tedious bus trip was worth it. We wound up the mountains, marveling at the cratered, cave-dotted rock formations. So fanciful it evokes Tolkien. Eerie, meditative, isolated. Eighteen monks live in the monastery on top of a pinnacle. Only 6 of the original 21 buildings are still in use. We saw monks tending gardens, greeting visitors, staffing the gift shop. One third of each day is spent this way, another third in prayer. At one time supplies had to be pulled up the mountain in baskets. Look up the pictures of this amazing place.

                                                Rhodes

After a one-hour flight from Athens, we settle into the Hotel Mediterranean. We strolled down the northeast coast right through ancient Rhodes. We passed the spot where the Colossus of Rhodes once stood. (According to legend) It is very scenic with three stately windmills along the water’s edge. The entrance to the walled city is dramatic. We followed charming narrow streets leading, after several misleading directions from the locals, “straight ahead on the right”, to Marco Polo’s restaurant. Fine food in a garden setting-lovely!

We passed the ruins of a 2^nd century Temple to Aphrodite on our way to the beach. How I love dining outside!  We ate at an exquisite restaurant “Old Story” among flowering plants and lush greens. The scampi in ouzo-orange sauce and the milk chocolate soufflé were ambrosian.

I’m getting tan! The sea abuts our hotel on two sides. We spend part of the day in the medieval old town admiring pottery, jewelry, statues,and  ruins, then we loll about around our seaside hotel.

We visited the archeological museum, and then the impressive Palace of the Knights with its intricate mosaic floors, the deep colors lasting thousands of years. Still on Rhodes, we return to the Marco Polo restaurant, enjoying watermelon, apricots, kiwis and deep red tomatoes.

Later, I sipped an amaretto, pineapple, and coconut drink while Mike surfed.

                                                Lindos

Another wonderful day! We drove to Lindos, a picturesque 17c. village on a cliff above the beautiful blue sea. It was too hot and steep to climb up to the acropolis, so Sue and I rode  donkeys! The ride was bumpy as the donkey listed to the right making me rappel off the jagged rocky walls en route. Topped it off by getting a major leg cramp disembarking.

We’re seeing patterns now: tomatoes and cucumbers at each meal, temples to Aphrodite or Athena or Apollo in every ancient village, an acropolis and agora (market). History shows us that humans seek some superior being. The Greeks blend myth with cold facts-beguiling but confusing. Our al fresco meal at the Seahorse Restaurant was delicious.

We walked through the ancient city of Kalmiro after lunch, then through Butterfly Valley, a nature preserve with green trees, running waterfalls, and fluttering butterflies.

The last night on Rhodes we used the Internet Café arriving at ten pm. Finally we’re on Greek time, eating lunch at 2pm and dinner at 9pm.

Brazil plays Germany tonight in the World Cup finals. We sit in a bar and join a dozen or so people from several countries. Sports do build bridges.

The Decorative Arts Museum is worth a stop. The rooms are arranged by color rather than by chronology. There were lovely examples of wood carved friezes, tiles, embroidery, tapestry and pottery. Cobblestone streets, colorful vines and clay pots of flowers entertained us en route.

                                            Santorini

Santorini is an example of a tourist destination not to be missed. We took the “Fat Cat” Dolphin catamaran to a mountain top village of Fira. It is even more glorious than the many photos of black sand and white buildings, red geraniums, and blue sea! A kindly pharmacist gave me Claritin to treat my allergies. Once I stopped emptying Kleenex boxes, I could imagine myself in a goddess gauzy tunic and pants. Bought the outfit as a souvenir.

We ate at Archipelago’s Cafe on a ridge overlooking the crater of a volcano. The eruption  changed the shape of the island from full to half circle. Mike bought me a necklace with a coin depicting Athena. Goes great with my new lapis and gold bracelet! I said the place was romantic.

                                                Heraklion Crete

A trip to the Archeological Museum in Heraklion introduced us to Knossos, ancient city of the Minoans.A German archeologist, Evans, dedicated 35 years and thousands of Pounds to excavating and restoring Knossos. Highlights for me were the ancient staircase, the queen’s chambers and the wall frescoes. Many, many tour groups shared the site with us. So did the sun. It was hot!

                       

                                                Rethymnon Crete

Rethymnon is one of the best preserved Venetian old towns on the Isle of Crete. Our hotel, Kyrna is beachfront. We watched the world go by as we sipped Kahlua. Their Museum of Folklife was excellent. My favorite objects were bright colored bags of  wool-ancient backpacks actually. Woven fabrics with Rethymnian embroidery were a close second. The Turkish and Italian influences are obvious here. We saw a contemporary sculpture exhibition inside a mosque, which was formerly a Catholic Church, in the fortress built on what was once the acropolis!These experiences bring home how very young our nation is. Capers grow like weeds close to the ground at our feet. We marveled at tiny snails perched on grain stalks everywhere. Enchanting.

The Greeks tell us American tourism has declined in this area.(post 9-11)

The beach here is super, not crowded, and bordered by fine, soft sand washed by the warm Aegean Sea. A boy about 6 asked Mike for a boost so he could reach a diving post.  Even without his classical Greek course in high school, Mike obliged.

 Lunch consisted of spinach-like greens, grilled eggplant, onions, lemon chicken and gold potatoes in olive oil and lemon juice. This is a meal I can make at home!

We enjoyed a concert and excellent dance demo at the mosque.

The 4^th of July With the U.S.  Navy in Hania Crete and the Samaria Gorge

We walked through the old city along the Venetian Harbor shopping and people-watching. The Naval Museum is interesting, but the photos of World War II are so sad. The local people hid in caves first from the Italians, then from the Germans. We had a mission- to walk the Samaria Ridge Sue told us about.After a long bus ride in a bus full of U.S. Navy sailors, the tour guide, who drove the bus to the hiking site, announced that there were only two donkeys to serve as an ambulance should someone need help. They tell us that after we had paid for a bus ride with a 5 am departure! 

We descended down a steep, switch back path to the bottom of the famous Samaria Gorge- a challenging, epic, ROCKY, 16km hike. We were surprised how difficult the footing was on irregularly shaped loose rocks and wondered how our friends were going to be able to finish. My hiking boots definitely earned their place in my 23’ suitcase. Fresh, clear mountain spring water faucets served as an oasis along the way. A camaraderie developed as the path narrows to one across. A unique, small species of goat resides in this secluded gorge. The KriKri are small brown animals with black stripes on their backs.After several hours, the trail winds past what they call “The Iron Gate”, a very narrow opening in the high steep mountains that signifies the end of the trail. 

The challenge is to finish the trek in time to catch the last ferry back or have to spend the night there. Our friends, Sue and Marty completed the trek just in time to catch the last ferry to Hania. This in spite of her Vespa collision in Athens and an earlier accident leaving her with an unbending knee. We had waited for over an hour sipping cool drinks and eating watermelon. Their comments upon arrival were memorable as Mike rushed up the path to greet them: Sue - “Don’t say one word or I will cry”; Marty – “Except for having all of your teeth pulled without Novocaine, that was enjoyable”. A T-Shirt with “I Survived The Samaria Gorge” was the reward for Sue.

The streets of Hania are charming with several quality shops. I bought a metal owl lantern and a luna bracelet for Trish. Then we tucked into a tiny carpet shop. The rugs were beautiful!  We were deciding whether to buy a bright woolen one for our dining room. We learned our rug, if ordered that day, would be started two years later, in 2004! We saw gorgeous Kilins rugs in another shop selling for thousands of Euros. The moral of the story= fine carpets take time.

                                    Back To Athens

We flew from Hania to Athens and stayed at the airport Sofitel. From my massage table, I could see out to the swimming pool area, but they couldn’t see me; a bit bizarre. The hotel wine was better than that we’d had at the charming tavernas. In Santorini we tasted a delicious local white. Restaurant meals may end with Raki, a strong, fiery liquor too strong for me.

                        General Comments on Food

So many oranges grow on Crete, they don’t harvest all of them. I love their fresh orange juice. The stuffed grape leaves are served warm-very tasty! Markets sell stacks of grape leaves. Watermelon is ubiquitous and so sweet. Potatoes accompany nearly every dish. The bread is rustic and good. Grilled eggplant, never overcooked, is wonderful. The olives are varied and pungent. A disease has damaged many trees here and in Italy this year. The tavern meat is fatty and not too tender. Olive oil is used lavishly. Honey and Yogurt prevail for dessert. We saw beehives along the highways. Ah…the fish! Calamari fresh and light and so flavorful. Grouper, swordfish, mullet, snapper and shrimp.

                        The Colors of Greece

In addition to the prevalent elegance of blue-trimmed white stucco houses, pleasing pale yellow and peach, vibrant gold and red create a cheerful scene. Folk costumes use striking contrasting colors and bold embroidery. Flowering vines and trees abound adding bursts of color against the white walls. Many widows wear the traditional black.

                                      

                                    Greek Impressions

                                            Roadside Shrines

The plaster, metal, and glass “boxes” on posts along Greek roads signify:

1.    The site of a fatal accident

2.    The site of an accident in gratitude to Mary for survival.

3.    Honoring the war dead.

Inside are photos, flowers, mementos, oils, etc.

 Raven black hair, liquid brown eyes, aquiline noses and pointed chin good looks. So many artistic touches. I saw an elderly man place a long leaf frond inside the waterspout so the water flowed over it. A plaster repair in our hotel room bore a cherubim-like shape.

*Babies are fussed over, which is delightful.

*More naps (in the hot afternoons) make for cheerier people.

*These friendly, helpful folks “morph” into fierce drivers of vespas and cars. *Pedestrians are treated to honks in order to hustle us out of the way. 

What a country! Grownups can be heard giggling. It’s contagious. Have a great trip!