Brasilia 12/2013

Brasilia 12/2013

After 14 hours of flight, we arrived in Brazil’s capitol, Brasilia. Rain had been predicted, so we were thrilled to see the sun. Jet-lagged and tired, we took an afternoon nap, awakening to a huge thunderstorm. Water runs down the steps and under doors. Quite a dramatic setting for enjoying my favorite Brazilian drink, Caipirinhos. We had a light lunch of heart of palm soup and thin, crisp slices of French style bread. For dinner we shared fresh shellfish with friends at Coco Bambu Pizzeria. It was delicious and served with saffron rice.

Thinking it was clever to book a morning tour and avoid the afternoon torrents, I watched the sky darken and dump water all the same. Brasilia is not a pedestrian-friendly place, so a tour is highly recommended. In the 1960’s, I remember marveling at photos of the sculptural buildings in this ultra modern new capitol. Today it seems a bit worn and stark. Still, the beautiful buildings and sculptures are best admired in open spaces. It looks as though the dinosaurs came through laying huge eggs (round buildings) here and there. The urban planner, Lucio Costa, the famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer, and a landscape architect, Burle Marx had grand, interesting ideas and permission to build a model city all at once.

Clustering hotels together, eliminating traffic jams by creating over one hundred neighborhood “strip malls”, creating a large lake, limiting building height to below the 27 stories of the National Congress, all contribute to the vistas and open feeling. A main bank has seven stories underground to comply with the regulations. No more homes can be built in Brasilia proper, as it is a National Heritage site.

Catching a cab involves at least two phone calls and someone willing to translate for you. The Taxi stands are few and far between. The city is in the shape of an airplane. To get from point A to point B, it is necessary to zigzag from north to south, then curve around and backtrack. This means long rides and costly taxi bills.

The memorial to Juscelino Kubitschek (JK) is impressive. Our tour bus arrived in a torrential rain. Suddenly I realize a twenty-something lovely Brazilian is sharing her umbrella with me! I smile and utter one of my few Portuguese words, ‘obrigada.”(thank-you) Staff in white blazers greet each visitor. JK is buried here with an exquisite French glass angel hovering above the casket. A greenhouse space borders his office and library. Circular cutouts in the ceiling allow the rain to drip in over the pots. It’s charming.

We saw the round Estadio  Nacional de Brasilia Mane Garrincha soccer stadium, which will host some of the World Cup games. It is walking distance from the hotels-only section of the city. Some believe the money spent on this stadium would better be spent improving the education and health systems for young people. Wide tree -surrounded streets accommodate the need for vistas plus could serve as plane landing runways in war! Niemeyer’s light blue Presidential Palace has a low profile. Today the flags were half-mast in honor of Nelson Mandela’s passing.

Dom Bosco Sanctuary designed by Vasconcelos Naves and Oscar Niemeyer’s masterpiece, the Cathedral Metropolitano, are bedazzling with the sun shining through the many stained glass windows. For weddings at the Sanctuary, mirrors cover the floor and reflect the gorgeous shades of blue from the stained glass windows. Heavenly! I returned to Santuario Dom Bosco for sunny Sunday Mass. Before Mass, parishioners are asked to cantor or usher or collect donations. If they agree, they wear a short white cape. Just before Mass, about 12 of them process to the altar with the priest. At the Offertory, the congregation walks up to a row of children each holding a rattan wastebasket lined in bright orange fabric and drops the donation inside. The filled baskets are then lined up at the base of the altar. Everyone there sings all the songs. It is glorious to have this participation.

One could sense the pride in the tour guide’s manner. Brasilia is amazing. Some things seem awkward. To get from A to B on often has to zigzag north then south, then curve around.  Apparently, the founders of this model city were excited about the promise the newish automobile brought.

Up on the hotel roof during a lull in the thunderstorms we had a drink with staff and meeting attendees. Project Notify is a small group, so real friendships have developed. Less beguiling were two nights of band music from 11pm to 2:30am. Very loud. Very close to our room! Of course, the answer is to join them for Samba, but we were too tired. However, we did enjoy a dance club later in the week. It is styled like the clubs in Rio in the 60’s. We danced to a great band. Brazilians know how to party!

Friends from Greece, Italy, Ireland, USA, joined us for a traditional Brazilian Barbecue, which may have originated in Argentina. At any rate, it’s a carnivore’s dream.

Street addresses in Brasilia are endless!

For example, Coco Bambu Pizzeria

SCN Qd OS Bl.A, Lojas 2 w, 3w E 4w

Brasilia Federal District

We stayed at Hotel San Marco. When I entered the lobby, an Iranian scientist cheerful recognition that we’d met and talked at a previous meeting felt really good.

On the long green space near the TV tower, sit hundreds of craft booths with green roofs. This is important, because the roofs helped me find the place. I really enjoy talking with people who make beautiful things. Thankfully, many spoke some English. The most spectacular item I saw was an outside table made of old tires bent and curved into attractive, comfortable table and chairs. This could work well in Seattle’s rainy climate.

The vendors are from all parts of Brazil. Woven and leather goods, native instruments complete with someone to demonstrate their sounds. It was fun visiting with a vendor who wanted to improve his English. He makes jewelry and wanted to know the words for ‘wrist’ and ‘ankle.’ The strong influence of the Catholic Church is evident in the many religious articles sold here. I bought a Madonna of Aparecida statue.

We studied the lines waiting at the different food booths and chose the one with the most Brazilians in it. Our mixture of rice, manioc, sausage, potatoes, and beans was tasty. The fresh fruit juices are wonderful. Mango trees abound.

One of Niemeyer’s swoopy buildings houses the indigenous memorial. Its design reflects the tribal houses. A bright swath of a ramp swirls its welcome to the main entrance. The native people insisted on retaining this building as a memorial rather than allow it to become the Modern Art Museum. Bravo! Videos show arts and crafts in the making. One documents a ceremony to free a child from a malady. He is rolled in cold ashes. The Shamans surround him and his family. They dance him to wellness. Lots of encouragement and touching. There is an open air space for gatherings.

The last two days of our 5- day visit were enriched by a chance encounter and a generous invitation to a Brazilian home. Mike was in meetings most of the day. I took a cab to the Oscar Niemeyer museum, listed as open in my literature. After paying the cab and sending him on his way, I discover the museum has been closed for two years! I am stranded. It is very hot. I look around, and then wander into the next building, asking whether it’s a place for tourists? Sergio answers, in perfect English! We talk of the world condition. He gives me a passionate description of the artifacts found in a dig in southern Brazil. Female archeologists, mostly from the Netherlands, discover 100,000-year -old stones!

After examining the stones and displays, I asked where I could go for lunch nearby? He answered there was nowhere? I asked where I could catch a cab? Too far away. Oh my! After consulting with his lunch buddy, he asked whether I wanted to join them for their lunch at a nearby government installation. Why not? We traversed a busy highway, passed security and ate a fine warm meal for $1.50. Sergio and his friend, Alexandra, are actors, so I told them I was a storyteller. She whispered in his ear (in Portuguese) that I seemed to be a witch! He quickly assured me that she meant a GOOD witch, like the Lady of the Lake. Knowing they were kindred spirits, I assumed the persona of this haunting lady and they laughed. I offered to tell them a short poem with native sign language. She suggested a nearby glorious ironweed tree as a proper venue. Sergio translated for her, and then offered to drive me to my hotel. These young people gave me loads of hope for the future.

Our last day was spent relaxing in the garden near a glorious mango tree in the home of one of the meeting participants. Her husband prepared a traditional meal. We were joined by our Irish friend, Deidre, and an American couple they had known many years. The wives were exchange students when in high school and had rekindled their friendship. They drove us to the airport. A wonderful afternoon. Lucky us.

Although it took us FOREVER to get our Brazilian Visa, our air connections went smoothly this trip. I recommend Brasilia to anyone interested in architecture and model cities. I recommend caipirinhas to everyone who isn’t driving that day!