Tuscany 10/2004

Mike & Sunny Tuscany 2004, Oct 12, 2004

Tuscan Diary- Sept/Oct 2004

We have 8 days in Florence! Even though we were exhausted when we arrived, we walked from near the Cascina Park in North Florence across the Ponte Vecchio and along the banks of the Arno River. We ate dinner alfresco in the piazza of the Duomo. My favorite activity is sipping a drink as the late afternoon light turns golden on the marble facade of the bell tower, cathedral and sacristry. We tried the local white wine-

San Gimignamo Vernaccia, had bruschetta and veal with porcini mushrooms. Let's say that porcini are a staple of my diet in Italy, especially when they're in season in the fall.

Our first night was 9-1:30am -sleep

1:30-4 staring at the ceiling

4-8 sleep

Our Star Michelangelo Hotel is a pleasant place with a decent restaurant and contemporary furnishings. We begin our Quest! The Lonely Planet guide lists the 5 best

gelato stands in Florence. We felt honor bound to test this. One was way out of the way, but we enjoyed the other 4. Vivoli's wins with Cafe Ricchi second. We would have nociola(hazelnut) each time adding a different flavor: peach, coffee, fruits of the woods, lemon, blueberry, tiramisu, chocolate.

The key to enjoying Italian food and not becoming very large must be the few cars and many bicyclists and pedestrians. I'm impressed by Italian women riding their motor scooters and bikes in heels!

I wanted to see the newly scrubbed David sculpture by Michelangelo. Next time I'll make a reservation online (needs to be 3 days in advance). After 1.5 hours, we entered the museum. It was worth it to me. You might get a different response from Michele Forte! (i.e. Mike Strong) We spotted a lovely aquamarine mosaic floor leading into a dress shop. Followed this corridor into a dress shop and bought Trish's Christmas gift.

Our friends, Del and Eva Lusk are wonderful cooks. We take their restaurant recommendations seriously. So, we enjoyed a meal at Ristorante Cibreo near Sante Croce; expensive, but worth it. An understated, quiet, gentile setting, we were joined at our table by a women who recited the whole menu, then introduced us to the wine steward whose black hair was gelled and arranged in coils. I thought this looked like a mustache perched on top of his head. I stopped gawking and started sipping when he delivered a yummy Brunello di Montelcino. We walked back to our hotel. Music was playing, so, of course, we danced in the lobby. Only in Italy am I perky at midnight!

Thanks to sharing expenses with another couple, we hired a car and driver, Max Niccoli, for a hill town adventure. Frequently he informed us that Tuscany is more beautiful than Chianti.

I fell in love with Pienza, a charming, less bustling village. Also loved the scenery in Montepulciano: flowers, stone staircases beckoning, tunnels to explore. (Pienza was the model for the village in the Shrek movies).

San Gimingnano came complete with a free flute concert in the square outside the basilica. The stone walls made for perfect acoustics.

On to Montelcino, where we sampled Vino Nobile Montepulciano. It was good, but not as smooth (nor expensive) as Brunello 1995! With it, a yummy chewy (al dente) pasta with porcini mushrooms, of course.

Throughout the day, the sky was an amazing clear blue. We were so fortunate.

Our driver suggested his friend's restaurant for that evening. So, we enjoyed   asking for Francesco and receiving extra attentive service. Slowly we managed to migrate towards dining as the Italian hour of 8:30-9 rather than at 7 when only tourist are eating.

Finally, I have eaten Wild Boar. With a chocolate, raisin, vinegar sauce, how could I resist? It was tender and good.

When we returned to the hotel. (Notice=bad habit now forming) I asked the bartender to make an authentic Bellini just like the original in Harry's Bar in Venice. Guess what? This bartender has pride and standards. He assured me his version is more authentic and tastier: Fresh peach syrup +sparkling wine served in a martini glass. Delicious. I didn't mention to him that I still prefer Whistler's Milestone restaurant's version with sangria.

What a pleasant surprise when we discovered the paintings in the Pitti Palace's Palatine Gallery have been beautifully restored. Vivid deep colors. I admired the bronze statue of an orator, made around 120 BC.

The Realo (sp?) Rooms are overly decorated, perhaps, but fun to see. Loved the light Prussian blue and turquoise ceiling in one room.

We walked the Boboli Gardens. Thirsty and without a bottle of water, I gave in to the temptation to use the brass water fountain. Two tiny sculptured heads peeked back at me!

Charming!

The rose garden and porcelain museum are lovely. The deep blue and gold set was our favorite. Made in Austria and France, these dishes were used by wealthy Florentine families.

Our alfresco dinner was almost perfect. Almost because I think I choked on a bite of Florentine bistecca. Couldn't wash it down as I couldn't swallow. The steak is dramatically presented on a wooden board with the huge t-bone and lemon slices, yummy fresh spinach and roasted potatoes. Very typical meal I remember having 40 years ago when a guest at an Italian family's apartment.

Italy is working its mellowing charm on us. we eat pastries at 11am then stroll to Mercato Centrale where we buy some pecorino cheese. We scope out the Italian Congress Convention Center (next to the main train station) where Mike will speak tomorrow. That evening we're guests of the Roche company at a wonderful restaurant, Ostaria dei Poveri. Their gnocchi was the best either of us has ever had. Washed down with Brunello 1995 we're talking the 'Dolce Vita' here.

Osso buco at Trattoria dei 13 Gobbi was tender and good. The restaurant is rustic with an outdoor patio out back. Yes, I know, I'm a 'foodie'.

One of our hosts suggested we take the train to Arezzo on Sunday as they have an antique market on the first Sunday. The stone building with coats of arms reminded me of Siena. The square was full of vendors selling everything imaginable: old keys, furniture, jewelry, glass.

We climbed the hill to the park near the Duomo. We were enjoying the view of the Tuscan countryside when we heard the sound of drums coming closer! It was exciting to wait in anticipation. The 20 man marching band continues a tradition from the middle ages: bright colored tunics, tights, boots, fancy hats. They performed in the Duomo square all the time we were inside at Mass. This church has 3 beautiful Della Robbia

ceramic works. It meant a lot to me to hear Mass in Italian. White plumeria provided the bottom 'collar' for massive white flower arrangements. During communion, the priest spoke to the communicants, gently advising them to show appreciation for their families this week.

We wound our way down the cobblestones to Trattoria Mazzani.

A famous son of Arezzo was Giorgio Vasari, the architect for the

Uffizi. We arrived at his home too late to tour inside. Vasari was

certainly a Renaissance man:author, artist, biographer,scholar.

Toured St. Francis' church, saw the frescoes.

Our last day in Florence we reserved for just soaking up the atmosphere. We took sentimental pictures, ate outside at Café Ricchi and watched the world stroll by. Many things were closed as it was Monday AND the feast of St. Francis.

Bought a little ceramic sparrow vase and a handmade black t- shirt with built-in hand warmers. I love it.  Strolled through the Duomo, said hello to the Dante painting and marveled at the marble floors.

Dressed up to dine at ZaZa's near the central market. A fun, casual place frequented by Italians and tourists like us. The Tagglilatore Tartufo was delicious. I'll seek a recipe to try this at home. For dessert, we enjoyed the house specialty -apple tart with vanilla sauce.

Oops! Our plane from Florence to Frankfurt was one hour late. Sooooooooo we missed our plane to USA. Lufthansa put us up at a nearby hotel and gave us meal vouchers. Yes, we're a bit tired of wearing the same clothes. A very kind staffer lent me his contact lens cleaning solution.

I'm ready to return to Italy anytime!