Virgin Islands 10/2003

The Beautiful Virgin Islands-February 2003 

About 20 hours after we left Edmonds, our plane landed on St. Thomas. Several teenaged girls burst into song! This anthem praised the V.I. and celebrated their return home. Paradise indeed. We spend the first day in beach chairs. Don't call us idle. Each time we 'needed' a fresh "Mango-Tango" (rum + fruit juice + rum) we had to raise a small flag attached to our chaise lounge! A pelican nearby was much more active. All afternoon he fished strategically and successfully; fun to watch. The next day we shared a rental (re!) jeep with another couple and toured nearby St. John Island. There really is "Island Time". No one in sight, when we arrived 10 minutes before the ferry departure time. Two-thirds of St. John is National Park- gorgeous white sand beaches with crystal clear turquoise water. We soaked in the beauty and enjoyed watching the birds. Lucy's Restaurant was recommended, so we drove a bit out of the way and joined goats, chickens, roosters and other guests for a lunch of conch (said Konk) chowder, curried veggies and the perquisite rum drinks! Roche Diagnostics arranged lovely social events for this trip. Tuesday afternoon we gathered by the infinity swimming pool, ate from a yummy buffet, and ....yes... drank Mango-Tangos. All week Dad and I danced alone to live bands. Now, that is my idea of paradise. Wednesday I worked out in the hotel's new spa. Then, midday, we boarded a catamaran with about 50 other blood bankers and mates and sailed all afternoon among the Virgin Islands. We saw a 'For sale' sign on one island. The price was $24 million and it comes with a house. The lovely harbors, sunsets, green hills reminded us of Rio. We stopped to snorkel for an hour. My snorkel lasted about ten minutes. I grew claustrophobic, but did enjoy the clear water and view of some striped fish. It was fun to enjoy the sun by sitting on the front of the catamaran on the way back. We returned to the Ritz Carleton in time to dress for dinner. The patio was decorated with candles and twinkling lights. Dinner under the stars and by the sea. Very Romantic! Thursday I took a cab into the main town on St. Thomas-Charlotte-Amelie. I walked through Cmille Pisarro's studio and home- now an art gallery. I bought a print of his painting of two village women laughing and chatting by the sea. I commented to the young artist who was staffing the gallery about how friendly and gracious St. Thomas women had been. He replied, "Yes, they are so nice, it's impossible to say 'no' to them!" I walked and walked in the sun. An iguana crossed my path in a city park. Good luck, I hope! At the Government House, I tried to convince the guards to show me the off limits private section with the original Pisarro paintings. No deal. My Pisarro frenzy led me nearby to an old (1833) synagogue, which refused to sanction Pisarro's marriage to a relative. The floor is still covered with several inches of sand- a tradition born of the necessity for secrecy years ago during the Spanish Inquisition. Next I walked to Blackbeard's Castle (which seemed a non-event tourist trap). However, nearby, I toured a lovely old home. The guide was fascinating. She is an historian and native islander. The handmade homegrown mahogany furniture was exquisite. I chose an outdoor restaurant with the hope of trying 'dumb bread'. Unfortunately, there was none that day. It was fun to sit in the piazza, overhearing conversations and greetings among the islanders (non-tourists). They were lamenting the proposed arrival of a casino. The economy is too dependent on tourists, they said. After lunch I walked around the Fort, then took a cab to view Magens Beach, touted as one of the top ten in the world. The cabbie was chatty. She has 10 siblings. That evening, we returned to a lovely garden overlooking the same bay. More dancing afterwards! I completely understand the popularity of these islands. For east coasters, it's only a 4 hour plane ride direct from N.Y. C. There's only one hour time difference. For us, we spent 10 hours in the air. Not so easy. Our departure was not 'paradisical'. We connected with our Seattle flight in NYC and it was snowed in. Out shuttle driver didn't put our bags in as we expected. Soooo we arrived at the airport in St. Thomas without them!! After a long 40 minute wait, another cabbie brought them to us. Phew! All in all, I'd jump at a chance to return to these relaxing, exotic, gorgeous, intriguing Virgin Islands!