Bueno Aires, 2015

Thanks to some wonderful tour guides and friends, I learned some of the complexities of this bustling city of 4 million. An additional 7 million commute to the city by train or bus for the work week!

In Europe, our country is considered young. In South America, independence is even more recent. Monuments attest to the struggles and bravery. White scarves are painted on the ground of the Plaza de Mayo. They represent the mothers who banded together to protest the disappearance of their children by the military dictatorship from 1976-1983. There was a woman protesting while we were there.

The upcoming presidential election is in the air. We saw flag-waving marchers in the streets on Sunday. Will Cristina ‘s financial support of the poorest citizens win her the election? Will her alleged deal with the Iranians lose it for her?

Pope Francis is terrific in my book. So, it was a thrill to see his third floor flat next to the downtown Cathedral. His presence in the city is less obvious than I imagined, but I did take a picture of one statue and saw his photo in some shop windows. Only 5% of the Catholics attend church on a regular basis.

The federal buildings in the city center are grand in the impressive style of Paris and Rome. Luckily, our Novotel Hotel is near a tall obelisk monument. This helps me find my way home through the crowds and in the heat. When we arrived, we had a cold drink in the inner courtyard where bright orange butterflies flew and alighted. I admired a 12x8 foot wall made of greens and flowering plants. A perfect backdrop to their swimming pool. But then, we see the corrugated steel shacks for the poor spread out next to the 5 star hotels. Another ‘city’ within the city is the famous cemetery, Recoleta. Blocks and blocks of grand crypts complete with altars and coffins. Each is different. The stone and ironwork are exquisite. Eva Peron’s grave is a major attraction. If you have $130,000 to spend, you may buy an abandoned crypt.

Buenos Aires is home to many immigrants. The Boca section has brightly colored buildings and friendly piazzas. We saw a tango demonstration there. Merchants sell their leather goods nearby. Another section has preserved the cobblestone streets and is renovating old buildings. Like Washington, D.C, Buenos Aires is a separate legal jurisdiction.

We experienced kindnesses like Argentinians escorting me when I couldn’t understand their directions to a nearby store. We experienced anger when a colleague’s purse was stolen from a restaurant.

Delicious beefsteaks, sweetbreads, churros dipped in hot chocolate, and empanadas are local specialties. A science colleague, Marcelo and his wife, Brenda treated us to a barbecue dinner at Cabrera's. Tasty tender beef followed by humongous brownies. We are a bit larger than when we ate Mediterranean style in Edmonds?

Brenda and I toured the light-filled impressive MALBA Latin American Art gallery. The Antonio Berni exhibition occupied several rooms. I can better appreciate an artist when I see his life’s work. Like Picasso, he had several different styles. The abstract work was my favorite.

We ate lunch at MALBA then headed to the controversial Eva Peron museum. The wife of the country’s President, she was controversial in part because her charity work was restricted to those of her husband’s political party. Still, thousands of orphans benefitted from the housing, clothing, and schooling she inspired. The museum shows films from her era. Her style was charismatic. Her early death at 33 from cancer adds poignancy to her story.

Across town, rows and rows of craft booths attract weekend shoppers. Many of the venders have Monday-Friday jobs. The prices are low once we divide the number of pesos by 8.

  

Side Day Trip to San Isidro and Tigre’ with Buenos Aires Taxi Guide

San Isidro

San Isidro is a gorgeous ‘suburb’. Some lucky people commute from the lush greenery, beautiful beaches, stately homes, fine restaurants and shops to Buenos Aires 30 minutes by train. Or, they can hop on the shoreline train for a weekend outing. I was struck by the plentiful shade trees in Argentina. Weeping willow branches sway gently in the breeze. Lovely! We drove past a horse racetrack and fields of pampas grass. I must be in Argentina!

A buff personal trainer was working with a client outside the gym near the beach as we drove by. Locals were searching for a shady spot to spend the day and picnic.

Tigre’

We rode a catamaran through many islands bordered by tropical plants in the Delta. Cottages of all sizes appear through the brush along the river, each with a long dock. Supermarket boats deliver goods including lots and lots of charcoal for barbecuing. There is only boat access from the islands. Courier boats deliver the mail. A renowned architect’s home is preserved by encasing it in glass. Funky. Sound idyllic? Consider there is no Internet connection. Could be some people’s paradise and others’ hell.

The fruit is delicious and fresh. I enjoyed a giant drink of Mango juice in the outdoor market. Row after row of separate stalls selling handmade goods. The smell of furniture making is so pleasant. The low prices ($80 for a wooden sofa with thick leather cushions) entice. We walked the formal gardens of a grand white ‘mansion’ that used to be a casino. A model was being photographed near the scenic river and flowers. This area feels like an oasis. In these wealthy communities, the parking rate signs list the charities that will benefit from the fee. Cool idea!

Mike finishes his term on the ICCBA Board with this meeting. Yes, we are slowing down a bit re: international travel. Unbelievably, we flew from Seattle to London to Barcelona to London to Buenos Aires to London to Seattle on British Air. Many hours in flight and in airports.

The friendships we have made make it all worthwhile. What a group of generous, intelligent people! We see each other once or twice a year, share meals and travel nightmares. We will miss them!