Geneva and Rome - 2012

WHO trip- Geneva, Lac D'Annecy, Rome.      August 26-September 6, 2012

Geneva

Very uneventful (Read Fabulous) plane trip. This breaks a streak of 24 hr. delays on recent trips. British Airways Business Class beds are quite comfortable! We spent our first day in a jet lag fog, yet the medieval charms of Yvoire bewitched us. About a two-hour boat ride from Geneva, Yvoire is worth the trip. When boarding, I greedily rushed my way to the open area at the front. Mike, on the other hand, stopped to read a sign on the staircase,” First Class Only! “ We moved down one deck. Geraniums decorated stone buildings- quite the aesthetic pairing. The castle looms over the "Six Senses Garden" containing medicinal and cosmetic herbs. Treached apple trees form a lattice fence. Lovebirds nest in corners. The labyrinth design is perfect for a romantic tryst.

The Glacier des Galets Creperie/Ice Cream shop alone merits a trip to Yvoire. We spotted a doorway leading to a cafe garden serving beautiful buckwheat crepes with ham & eggs. Honest, it looked like a painting. For dessert, I had coffee ice cream smothered in rich chocolate sauce. The sun was shining most of he day. Little did we know two weeks of rain would follow!

On the boat home we shared a table with Genovese couple. They were very friendly. Although they live in Geneva, they shop in France to escape Swiss high prices. Taxes are steep in Europe, but medical care and university fees are not. I was not surprised to see Switzerland ranked so high among world cities in a recent poll. I admire Swiss neutrality, emphasis on education, wonderful trails and willingness to set aside savings for that rainy day.

It was very pleasant to share dinner at Brasserie Lipp with Hiwot, a Stanford medical student from Ethiopia. As an intern for WHO, she has helped Mike tremendously.

Unfortunately, she returns to Stanford soon to pursue her research in gastroenterology.

While Mike attended a meeting, I did a favorite walk up the hill to Old Geneva. I heard a band playing. Naturally l followed the sound until I saw them:  Police officers in elegant blue & white dress uniforms. Perhaps it was an enlistment ceremony?

I generally visit the Rath Museum below Old Geneva. It’s really an exhibit hall without a permanent exhibit, so there is always something for me to learn. 300 years since his birth, they gathered the works of artists who had felt Geneva -born Jean Jacques Rousseau's influence. He encouraged the viewing of landscapes as nurturing rather than threatening as they were portrayed before the 1750's. I especially liked the scenes of mountains. Each ripple was carefully sculpted almost like Chinese painting. These works are by young gentlemen who traveled to Rome, Greece, Italy and Switzerland as part of their education. They sketched as they went.

I admit one of the reasons I visit Musee Rath is because it’s near Café La Lyrique.

Befitting an elegant spot next to an opera house, the staff resemble butlers eager to protect the Lord of the Manor from the riffraff! I return to eat there because the food is beautiful and delicious. The surroundings are lovely. The service is perfect. But first…one must make ‘the cut!’ I approach the Maître D with a request for a table outside in the charming flower-bedecked tent. Mais non! He explains there are no more tables available. I ask about inside tables. No luck. I am forced to assume my Duchess posture and insist on a table outside. This is no easy task, for I am wearing a backpack and rubber- toed hiking sandals! I offer to return in 20 minutes when a table would be free. I call his bluff. It works. He magically discovers a place outside, fearful of a scene, perhaps? Lest you call me a brat, I could see several unoccupied tables. I settled in, enjoyed a fabulous lunch of grilled eggplant with sesame seeds, fresh tuna perfectly cooked, watercress and finely julienned tiny carrots. I left a generous tip because the service, once I was seated, was wonderful. The cook came to my table to ask whether my meal was satisfactory. Why? Like Jackie Kennedy, I use the technique of eating only half of my meals when travelling. A concerned waiter must have summoned the chef. All in all, it was worth it to eat at Café Lyrique!

After lunch I traversed busy La Place Neuf to the city park. Sitting at a picnic table, I could watch 4 games of chess played outside with large chess pieces. Fun to see the different styles: mysterious, bodacious, professorial, ingénue. There are free setups for ping-pong and other games as well. Just beyond the game section, marble figures from Geneva’s history stand watch. High school students visit on the lawns outside their lovely campus. The park feels like a community square. Nice.

Time to find my way back to the hotel to meet Mike. I need lots of lots of time and lots and lots of kind strangers. Sure enough, I get lost and add one hour to my walk. By the time I cross the proper bridge into downtown Geneva, my left leg is barking. I hobble home to Hotel Brilliant, so disappointed that weeks of a zillion daily exercises and stretches have failed to prevent the painful tightness.

La Perle du Lac is a fancy, favorite restaurant quite a long walk along Lake Geneva, but my leg is hurting. For that night we decide on Café Jacky based on rave reviews from Trip Advisor and its proximity to our hotel. Voila! The place is beguilingly bedecked in lavender and white geraniums dripping from window boxes. We smile. We enter. We open the menu. Oops! Forgot to research the prices in very expensive Geneva. Gratefully, we imitte our Trish and declare “Carpe Diem.” Our seafood dishes are delicious, but not twice as yummy as the restaurants half the price.

Our last (but not final) day in Geneva means repacking 12 days of clothing, etc. into my backpack. Travel Tip: Buy a backpack with chest and waist straps to distribute the load. Saves the back. I reward myself by walking along the lake, admiring le jet d’eau fountain. Then to La Matze outdoors table for a lunch impossible to find in Edmonds. Incredibly smooth and tasty pate’ surrounded by somebody’s livers (duck? beef? chicken?) and thinly sliced dried beef. We’re in the mountains, you know. The Mediterranean Diet is not King here! I enjoy watching people parade by: many races, fascinating clothing.

Time to load my HEAVY backpack and catch the #8 to the World Health Organization office to meet Mike. Lots of security. I wait in the holding area until rescued by Fiona and escorted to an office. We pile into a van and make our way to the Palace du Menthon on Lac d’Annecy.

Lac d’Annecy

It was a rainy drive. The sun snuck through just before nightfall and just in time to backlight the villas nestled near the lake. Our hotel Palace de Menthon never was a palace, it turns out, but it does do one convincing impersonation. Oo la la! In our room there are five rooms: one for the sink and shower, one for the toilet, one for the walk-in closet, one for the bed. The real Palace du Menthon sits up on the mountain nearby, still occupied by the original family through the decades.

I dress for dinner. This means I change my earrings and shoes. What a feast! 4”high medium rare steaks plus a 7” long Opera Cake. Yum!

The next day I rode with another accompanying spouse to the home of our hosts: Luc and Francisca Noel. I love the sound of their names! We chatted, admired their lovely home and amazing view of the lake, mountains, garden and pool, Many intriguing artworks, a singing bird; and then set out for a tour of Annecy. The town is charming. It has flowerbeds, stone walls, old buildings and a large outdoor market. One cart held big slabs of locally made nougat. Others featured the local cheese, aubuchon recherché. This delicious cheese is made while the cow’s milk is still warm. I admired the beefsteak tomatoes for their perfectly scalloped shape. We strolled along the canals and lake, enjoying the flowers and the awesome Alps in the background.

All three of us are spouses and therefore survivors of the fascinating world of science travel. Sometimes we accompany our scientist mates and other times we resemble the women who paced the rooftops awaiting their returning seamen. We compared notes over a cozy lunch in a pub-like French café’. I ordered a mushroom tart after asking Francisca what was local and typical for Annecy.

It rained. I chose to return to the Noel’s home while Francisca kept an appointment. Why? I longed to study their many books, family photos and artworks. Mike and Luc Noel have collaborated for about three years. It’s fun to see another side of him: husband, grandfather, and mushroom picker! We had a fine dinner cooked by Francisca. The cucumber soup was embellished with a shredded cucumber tuft in the center of each of our bowls. The dessert featured local berries, cream and meringue. Her artfulness extends to the meal presentation.

The next day we gave them gifts from Salish artists. I told and signed the “Birds of Fire” poem then we demonstrated our preschool story time songs.

Geneva

We took a scenic route back to Geneva, stopping to admire the alpine views from the lower lake and driving close to view the Palace du Menthon.

After getting settled into the hotel, Mike and I walked to the Old Town and visited the wonderful Reformation Museum. In addition to its awesome, engaging displays, there was a perfume exhibition. We could sniff containers of Myrrh and Landaman and anointing oils used in biblical times.

We wrapped up our visit with final stroll along lovely Lake Geneva to say goodbye to a favorite city. I most certainly disagree with our fellow Edmonds resident and travel author Rick Steves. He does not recommend touring Geneva.  Hearing band music, we stopped and observed a red and a blue boat nearby. Resembling the Dragon Boats we had seen in China, these had an elongated shape with 4 or 5 men perched in a row, each taking a turn at the top of the ‘ladder’ by jousting the opponent in the other boat. If no one is jousted into the water, the next man moves up and eventually challenges his opponent. The band plays dramatic music for each regrouping. Now- how would we Google that description to find out the real name for this ceremonial sport? Mike and I had a raclette dinner at the Hotel Brilliant, and then left for Rome the next day.

Rome

We took an Easy Jet flight from Geneva to Rome. The fares are much less than other airlines. The style is similar to Southwest Airlines. It was perfect for our hour’s flight. The owner of our rental penthouse greeted us with house keys, a bottle of Prosecco, and his pretty friend from Tampa. We entered an ancient cage elevator, closed the little doors and had a cozy ride to the 6^th floor. Kind of a scary contraption, but it works. Giuseppe assured us they were replacing it very soon. This increased my trepidation. He urged us to dine in the Monti neighborhood and avoid tourist locations. We took his advice, entering a stylish wine bar next door, called Matermatuta, with enticing candles on the steps leading to the cellar. Oval glasses, square plates, caramel-colored placemats and wheat-colored napkins. Lovely! Our apartment address is Via Milano 49. It is artfully decorated. Would recommend it to anyone. Having a large terrace is such a treat. I became fonder of the huge Vittorio Emmanuelle monument after seeing just the top of it from our terrace. The two angels on horseback are really dramatic and the best part of the monument often derisively called “The Typewriter.”

Mike and I did laundry at midnight, (so things would dry overnight), and then listened as the rain beat down on the terrace where we’d lovingly placed them. However, we awakened to blue sky over our terrace!! We ate breakfast right across the street, again following our host’s advice. To my delight, I saw “Café Crema” similar to the granita from home, but more like a milkshake. With flaky apple turnovers, this was a fine meal. It demanded miles of walking to wear if off. I was willing, but my flesh was weak! My hamstring tightened up after an hour, so Mike counted the leaves on the trees and watched the crowds walking by while I rested and rested and rested. We walked to the Turtle Fountain, then had a favorite lunch at Nonna Betta’s: Carciofi Fritti alla Guidia. These are flattened, fried artichokes. The result is crispy like potato chips. We started at an outside table, but were blown inside by thunder and rain. I also had yummy fried squash blossoms. This menu is not for dieters! Mike had carciofi and eggplant parmegiana. We both saved room for our daily gelato. As usual, we ordered nociolla (hazelnut) plus some form of chocolate. Mike had tartufo (chocolate with cherry). I had Torino (chocolate with toffee bits).

En route to our apartment, we stopped to join the considerable (and wet) crowd at the Trevi Fountain.

Just like Peter Rabbit, who, once full, “went to look for some parsley”, my afternoon snack was delectable Swiss milk chocolate with hazelnuts. Just like the mouse in “If You Give A Mouse A Cookie”, I needed a glass of red wine to wash down my chocolate. I foresee careful eating once I return to the USA!

Tonight we meet our friend, Deirdre, for dinner near the Bologna metro station. We had mushroom pizza at a neighborhood trattoria. Deirdre is Irish but works in Rome and returns home to Como on weekends. Her family hosted us last year and introduced us to beautiful Torno on the lake.

It was fun conspiring with the local merchants for cake, napkins and gelato. I can talk in Italian, but have trouble understanding everything. We invited Mike’s colleagues for a birthday celebration after dinner. Stratos is from Greece, Hiwot from Ethiopia, Deirdre from Ireland. They are excellent company!

The following day, I strolled Via Nationale after a tasty lunch at La Carbonara. Chewy pasta and fresh grated cheese with bits of pancetta. I asked for a red wine that was a bit better than the house wine, but not too expensive. They delivered! It was smooth and delicious. A Japanese couple at the next table asked me for advice about touring Venice. Good luck. Each thing I gushed about, the husband said, “We don’t want that.” Oh well.

Found a cute shop called ‘Momento’ on Via Nazionale. They have edgy, unique dresses, cute shoes, etc. A blue and green silk blouse was too big, a fancy deep brown silk turtleneck too small. So, on I went.

Am I really writing a food blog? It seems so. With an uncertain hamstring, I ventured out for meals then kept the mileage down by sitting at cafes, watching the ambulatory go buy. What, me bitter? It was SO aggravating!!! I love to explore. I do lots of stretches and strengthening and hoping it will heal. I may have to adjust my travel style and use more public transport?

On the brighter side, I got an e-mail from Del Lusk telling me he saw good-looking fresh porcinis at Ar Galetto Ristorante. What a wonderful meal grilled porcinis make. They are so flavorful sprinkled with truffle oil! Scrumptious chewy bread and wine and I forgot my pity party about the tight hamstring.

Here we go again. I report eating at Ditirambo near the Piazza dei Fiori. Still a fine place. Someone told me that when you eat at an Italian restaurant the first time, you are a tourist. When you return a second time, you are family. This matches my experience. When she looked doubtful about seating four of us, I reminded her this was my third time enjoying her exquisite food. She found us a table.

I visited an engaging exhibit of Leonardo da Vinci’s machines. Full-scale wooden models made by Italian students could be manipulated. It was like a science lab. There was a digital component as well. It was interesting to observe the adults’ perplexed looks as they read the instructions. When a child approached the station, he or she immediately understood what to push to watch Leonardo at work.

Today we said goodbye to our breakfast place owner and to Giuseppe who reminds us he owns several apartments in Rome and each is maintained as well as this one. We had a blue sky for the first time this trip. It has rained on our terrace everyday, but I sat out anyway listening to the neighborhood sounds and reading.

Rome remains a unique, bustling, animated metropolis! Arrivederci!!!