Passau, the city of three rivers

PASSAU

         In Germany at the junction of three rivers, Danube, Inn and Ilz, this village is a transportation center for nearby Austria and the Czech Republic. The town has flooded many times, most recently 2013 with water above the second stories. Marks on the wall designate high water levels. The restoration is impressive. We ate at a small pub in the flood area, but there was no sign (or scent) of water damage. Instead, I delighted in Passau Weinerschnitzel: Veal topped with a thin layer of sliced mushrooms, finely chopped pancetta, and light cheese. Mike, who rarely drinks beer, is sampling the local fare to go with his sausage sampler and sauerkraut.

We stepped off the boat, and then strolled to Hotel Wilder Mann where Maria Teresa of Austria often stayed. They preserved her furniture, silver brush and comb set, armoire and some clothing. Next door is the Glass Museum of Passau- 5 floors and 60 rooms of quality glassware! Beautiful colors, exquisite designs, delicate shapes and all sizes. The most beautiful birdcage I’ve seen was made of white glass giving it a regal overtone. The works date from 5,000 years ago to 1950. I smiled upon overhearing a conversation between a married couple from our age group. The wife said, “I’m tired. I’ll meet you at the cloakroom.” The husband said, “I will be quite a while.” The wife responded without rancor, “I know you will.” A rapport I observe among the many seniors on our ship: acceptance and a belief we don’t want to waste time quibbling? We are among several with over 50 years together.

         We admired pastel colored elegant buildings, but not the history of some early occupants who ordered 200 people killed because they failed to pledge allegiance to the Bishop. Power, indeed, corrupts.

         At noon, we heard a Bach organ concert at St. Stephen’s Cathedral. This is one of the world’s largest cathedral organs, having 17,974 pipes in 5 sections, 233 stops and 12 keyboards accommodating three organists. The 5 sections can be played individually or simultaneously, giving it a unique sound. The guide pointed out a vent in the tall ceiling fills the church center with sound. The design inside is very Baroque and well restored after fires of 1662. Another nice Christmas Market filled with school children occupies the square in front of the church.

DINING ON BOARD

         Each meal we invade a different table, meeting so many interesting people. Lots of Mother/Daughter combos and several family and friend groups. The service minded staff goes out of the way to indulge our every whim. This frees up our nice side? Welcome smiles greet us everywhere. We’ve dined with Australians, a Russian now living in the UK, and folks from many different parts of the USA. There’s no pressure to join others, but it can be fascinating.