Seoul Korea, 10/2002

Sunny and Mike Have Seoul, Oct 12, 2002

Dad and I sat separately as I used mileage miles in coach and he was in Business Class. The Chinese (American?) sitting next to me was an animated marketer for his agency’s services. He left China as a young adult and moved to Seattle. He uses his Chinese language to arrange one –18 mos.   English language teaching jobs for Americans interested in experiencing China. They receive room and board; plus a stipend?

They pay a placement fee to his agency. Some slots require teaching of math, art, etc. .An undergrad degree is sufficient, though more is paid for advanced degrees.

My seatmate’s daughter lived in China this summer, earning her keep by tutoring a Chinese teacher of English in the evenings. She also taught 6th graders to speak more colloquial English. When she began, three experienced   Chinese teachers sat in on her class. Then, two. Then one. Not only did they ask her back next summer, but they urged her to return with some of her friends. English teachers are much needed at this time.

 She visited her grandparents who tried Seattle for 6mos., then returned to China. They missed their friends, their T’ai Chi, their mah-jong . They spoke little English. When I asked what impressed his parents the most in the USA, he quickly replied, “Garage Sales!” His father would go week after week, observing which things were put out for sale.

Tokyo’s new Narita Airport shuttle

Watch Mike and Sunny SQUEEZE into the itty-bitty narrow bus seats. We’re the large ones here in Asia!

I read about earthworm stew and snake wine.

Something to look for in Korea. I read that North and South Korea are still officially at

war. I read that women keep their maiden names after marriage. They may also be called Mrs.KIm using their husband’s family name.

After (literally) bumping into several Asians, I recall that one must walk on the left side rather than the Western habit of walking on the right side of halls, stairs etc.

Seoul’s New Inchon Airport

A sculptural delight! It’s energy of design reminds me of Geary’s Experimental Music Project design. In the shape of an airplane, the top piece changes colors and can be seen from quite a distance.

Dad’s host and his wife met us. She drove us into town past the bridges over the Han Gang (Han River). Each of the 24(?) bridges is a different design. Lovely lighting shows off the architecture.   Some bridges were destroyed during the Korean War in order to limit enemy access to Seoul.

Right in the 1988 Olympics Park!

Atypically, Dad and I have a free day together before the meeting starts. We walk through Olympic Park, which is full of Korean children.

A group of 12-13 yr. old girls giggled a “Hello”. They smiled and said, “How are you” in unison. We answered, “Fine!”. They beamed! We repeated this exercise several times with different groups of eager students.

There is terrific sculpture throughout the park. It was fun to remember my recent intro to Atlanta’s Olympic Park.

We viewed an exquisite high-end fashion show in the outdoor theater; gorgeous models and fashions in asymmetrical designs. Two arias from a diva accompanied by a string trio. The fabrics were richly colored, lovely textured silks. Wow!

We took a city tour to orient ourselves to Seoul. Would you believe a whole street devoted to pet shops? There were lots of cute puppies waiting for a home. This is followed by many, many motorcycle shops. Interesting!

I rode past the Blue House, home of their president; quite a compound.

Changdeokgung Palace

Latticed windows and swooping roofs, lovely green, red and gold floral motif on inside beams, metal guardian spirits in bronze on the roof, sparkling furniture in gorgeous woods. This was where the last King of Korea lived. The Secret Garden on the grounds is landscaped in Korean style, which is natural rather than formal.. In the center a peaceful pond surrounded by wispy pines provides a cool refuge. A small pagoda shaped cabin offers a place to reflect.   Students take their tests here and are observed by their elders who oversea their work from buildings up the terraced hill. Famous poetry has been written in this spot.

Our host lived nearby as a child and took her tablet to this garden to sketch. She took us to lunch at a restaurant housed in an old Korean house with a center court. The court separates the women’s section from the men’s.

National Folk Museum

This is a small, user-friendly museum showcasing styles of dress, furniture, crafts, etc. for different periods of Korean history.

Wedding customs are elaborate! Beautiful silk hanbok

dresses are worn. An Indonesian lawyer who

presented at Dad’s meetings went with us to the

museum. Our Korean hosts said 300-500 people might

attend a Korean wedding. The Indonesian woman

replied that 3,000 attended her son’s wedding and

they served food to them all!

When we returned to the hotel lobby, a wedding party was gathering. Fun coincidence!

Puppetry and mask dancing are demonstrated in the museum. Many themes are adult. All ages seem to enjoy them. Each region has a distinct form of mask dancing.

Funky Tidbits

Youth in middle and high school adhere to a strict dress code. No dyed hair, no curled hair. Although some women have curled their hair, it is highly unusual.

Women socialize during the day with their women friends. They would never leave their home at night without their husband or an escort. Generally, this class (doctors’) wives do not work outside the home.

Serious Shopping at Migliori’s Dotta’s, and Prigati’s Mega stores

Buses of shoppers from Japan spilled into these huge stores. We did, too. I felt overwhelmed by all the merchandise. I was still learning the dollar equivalent to the Won. (1177 won per dollar). I tried on leather jackets so I’d know a bargain when I shopped in the outside street markets later in the week.

Korean Theater features “Nanta”

-a riotous stage play set in a catering kitchen. Frenzied, interactive and fun. Depicts the day of a wedding feast deadline. The sous chefs get distracted at every turn,

using utensils, etc. as musical instruments. Lots and lots of drumming and flying food.

Our hosts explained that Koreans have a playful, joyful spirit and enjoy releasing it in childlike play, song, dance and drumming.

The Endless Speeches Dinner

IAEA (International Atomic Energy Agency) rep sat at our table. He and others asked us questions about whether US would invade Iraq. Awkward moments! I didn’t care to disagree with our president in the presence of non-Americans.

I focused on the excellent, milky smooth corn soup.

To my amazement, the speaker called me to the mike! For once in my life I was speechless. He called on everyone in the room for a few words. Long evening.

Massage-Korean Style!!!!!!!!!

Splish! Splash! And shocking pink vinyl! Gooey, gritty, gelatinous green goop slathered all over my body, then hot SLAPPED towels on top. Slap, slap, slap, then hosed down. Exfoliated every inch of me- wished I had removed my contacts. Sprayed water removes grime, then slime patted all over again, then foamy stuff in my hair, then claylike stuff on my face. Every treatment smelled like food (i.e. plum sauce, bean paste).

Did I mention the masseuse wore only a lacy black bra and underpants?

My feet were too wimpy to walk on the smooth stones

around the spa pools. I skipped the cold plunge and

enjoyed the warm. Showered staring at myself in the

mirror staring at me.

It’aewon Market

This is the market   catering to foreigners. The shopkeeper flatter you, show pix of their adorable children, explain their merchandise is top quality and low price. Leather goods and jewelry abound. Of course, I rec’d a special discount as the first customer of the day! After an hour, I was shopped out, so headed to the nearest museum.

War Memorial

A physically imposing site; austere and meaningful.   A huge statue depicts a two brothers meeting in battle during the Korean War. One fights for the north, one for the south. Directional signs, as in the Holocaust Museum in DC, guide through visitors. One comes into a dome-shaped room and faces a dark dome sculpture within. A glass bubble seems to float on top; a minimalist and stunning tribute to the war dead.

The   DMZ exhibit packed a wallop of emotion through interactive exhibits. At one point you look through binoculars into a real video of the North Korean soldiers guarding their side. There is a life size model of the building at the 38th parallel. The line runs right through the conference table. North Koreans on one side of the table, South on the other.

There are repeated pleas for reunification. The last thing the visitor sees is a reminder that Germany reunited without bloodshed. Very poignant afternoon!

A Day in Suburbia

Our hostess asked what I wanted to see in Seoul. I answered my usual wish-to see how ordinary Koreans lived. So, she picked us up at the hotel and took us to a northwest suburb. It is beautifully located right near a mountain park. The graves of the ancestors, marked by huge boulders, were preserved and the park developed around them. The condos are concrete-seas of concrete high-rises. We walked around the lovely park, greeted school children doing artwork in a pagoda shaped park loft, and admired the fountain and flowers. The pedestrian bridge had a strip down the middle for bike traffic-made of rubbery material?

Young children wear identically colored sweatshirts for their field trips. This allows the teachers to spot any wanderers = great idea!

We lunch in a restaurant in an old traditional Korean house; 10 courses; so much for my hope not to gain weight in an Asian country. We were invited to finish the meal outside in the garden in a pagoda where they served us melon with plum tea. Now there’s a tea I

like. Each dish of our lunch was designed. The potato patty was inscribed with a tiny pink vegetable rose and green leaves.

Our lunch: 3 soups: bean, ginseng, rice & sesame (soup is eaten throughout the meal)

Glass (see-through) noodles and mushrooms Greens from the mountains with garlic & sesame Pickled everything: cabbage, carrots, turnips, etc. Beef ribs, fish, shrimp Rice, green tea

Koreans use a spoon for rice and soup, metal chopsticks for the rest. Tiny forks for dessert. All take pieces of food from a common pot in the center of the table.

Tea & Sweets at the Condo

We removed our shoes, were greeted by a housekeeper, and then entered a spacious apartment. Hardwood floors and a large living room. Lovely views of the park from several rooms, large, modern kitchen, 3 bedrooms plus a small glassed in exercise room off the master bedroom. No beds-mats are rolled up and stored out of sight. They use a dining room table, which many Koreans do not. It is common to serve the meal from a large tray and to sit on cushions on the floor. This space can then be used for many things during the day. They have something like a lanai off their living room windows- glassed in garden about 3 X 15 feet.

Tranquil scene with traditional Korean rust-colored pots and flowers.

We ate light sesame cookies. I loved them. Tasted like puff pastry inside. These were piled artistically on a china plate. Deep purple grapes and scrumptious mandarin oranges were arranged on the same plate. These oranges are so much better than ours and have none of the stringiness or tartness; green tea to finish.

At the end of the tea, I noticed the OTHER 3 women had piles of grape skins on their plates!

You Want to WHAT, Madam?

At 7am, I took the elevator to the lobby, asked the concierge who asked the bellman, who blushed; then asked the concierge for mercy (I presume). The concierge left his post and led me through the –uh- men’s room to a hidden staff staircase and work area, through the spa restaurant, up more stairs and into the fitness center!

You see, the center is for men only. The concierge saved me from walking through the   “no clothes” area.

I ran and exercised for 1.5 hours all the while wondering whether I could find an English-speaking guide out. Phew! Someone was waiting to reverse our labyrinthine ways to the regular elevator!

Korean Folk Village

Think Williamsburg. This recreation village life is worth the hour’s drive south of Seoul. The feel is medieval. We walked through different living compounds: one for a farmer (considered middle class in those times), nobleman’s compound and government quarters. The latter included a torture room with stretchers and other scary devices.

Watched blacksmiths and woodcarvers and painters of miniatures. Bought a wooden bowl for Dad’s Admin. Asst. Laura. She arranged the trip for both of us.

Young people demonstrated the traditional “Farmer’s Dance” and Korean seesaw acrobatics.   Costumes for both are colorful and pretty. White streamers attached to the dancers’ hats are swung and twirled through head motions. Some dancers play drums, tambourines or flutes. Some do marvelous flips while still keeping in formation around a circle. An aging but awesome tightrope walker strutted high above the crowd. Missed the humor of his remarks as they were in Korean.

Tourism is definitely down. Only myself and a Danish couple on our bus tour. I appreciated their NOT asking whether US was going to invade Iraq!

Our Farewell Dinner

Jellyfish

Sea urchin

Octopus

Sea cucumber

Beef short ribs

Noodles

Each person (15 or so!) was asked to give a speech! This time I was prepared. I told “Everybody Needs A Rock” by Byrd Baylor because Koreans love their beautiful mountains and use huge rocks for decoration and for honoring their ancestors’ graves.

Korean National Library

This is analogous to our Library of Congress. The librarians spoke fluent English and were very helpful. An American accompanying wife sought blueprint for building a Korean style teahouse in their Boston backyard.

For Your Grandpuppy????

I walked to a pet store near our hotel. I wanted something for Chance that said ‘Korea’ or ‘Seoul’. The toys were imported! Sooooo, I bought some doggie snack shrink-wrapped with Korean letters all over it plus the picture of a chicken. Imagined it was chicken flavored something.

On the U.S. Customs form, I wrote “One pkg. Chicken- flavored dog snack.” I assumed it was neither meat nor a meat product. Dad and I were pulled out of line (blush) at customs at Seatac. An officer pointed out that I bought pork according to the Korean writing on the package. When I asked if I could have it back, she said, “Of course, NOT!”

It’s the thought that counts, Chance.