Wales 9/2003

Mike and Sunny Do Wales, September 2003

Once again Mike was invited to speak at a tissue banking conference, this one to be held in Wrexham, Wales. Wrexham (Welsh: Wrecsam) is the administrative center of the wider County Borough of Wrexham, and the largest town in North Wales, located to the east of the region. It is situated between the Welsh mountains and the lower Dee Valley close to the border with Cheshire, England. As North Wales' largest town (pop. 43,000), it is the region's main commercial, retail, educational and cultural center. The meeting was held at the new Biotechnology Center whose Director, Glyn Phillips, is a friend of ours from previous meetings around the world.

Our itinerary was a bit unusual on this trip since I attended a family wedding in Portland and flew from there to Frankfurt and then on to Manchester, England while Mike went from Seattle. While awaiting the flight to Manchester, I met a 19-year-old woman returning from 6 months teaching English to Japanese students on a small island south of the Japanese mainland. She had a very positive experience and wants to return. Her hometown is Manchester and she offered to show me her town.

Mike and I met up in Manchester where we rented a car and began our journey to Wrexham, trying to get used to having the steering wheel on the right hand side of the car and driving on the left side of the road. Once we left the freeway, the roads in Wales turned into two lane, narrow roadways with high hedgerows on either side, making visibility a additional challenge. We had decided to stay in a small village outside of Wrexham, to achieve the real cultural experience, but this meant a daily commute for Mike and there was no way I was going to drive in this country. There are many traffic circles, a challenge since we rarely knew which point was the proper direction. Each time we landed on our prescribed road, we had no time to relax, as; yes, here comes still another circle with 4 choices! Dad drove a burgundy Rover 75- large and comfy.

We stayed at the Stableyard Cottage Inn, Bed and Breakfast, a 17^th century Inn, wonderfully restored to its original state, in the town of Bangor-on-Dee. It had a total of 6 small rooms but with bathroom facilities. The wooden floors were worn uneven and the stairway was very narrow, with elongated triangles and a challenge to navigate. We ate breakfast in a small nook next to a lacework-curtained window, which faced the street. The breakfast each morning was always the same, a typical British breakfast with two eggs, bacon, pork and beans, grilled tomato, mushrooms and bangers (pork sausage). Outside, roses abound. An ivy-covered trellis formed a lovely spot for al fresco dining when its’ hot (which it hasn’t been yet). There is a narrow cobblestone driveway to the parking area in back that one can easily picture was the stable yard for the horses, but is a bit tight for a car. There is also a dog and a cat that are not too sure about strangers occupying their home. Kathy White, the Inn Keeper, was friendly and welcoming. It was a great bargain at 40 pounds.

The Inn is in a tiny village known primarily for a local racetrack. We had steak pie one night in the Bangor-on-Dee pub across the street from our inn. Oddly, I thoroughly enjoyed watching 1-½ games of the Rugby World Cup in this atmosphere with lots to observe as the locals ordered a pint, some food, and sat down to watch the pub TV. The owner/manager moved some rather rowdy young men to the back room. I guessed that she anticipated an escalation of their yelling, as the Welsh national team took on Italy in a qualifying match. Mike warned me to be careful not to cheer for the Italians.

I was fortunate to have as our hostess, Rhiaian Phillips, Glyn’s wife, who campaigns for an independent Wales (from the UK). She spoke Welsh growing up and believes this heritage should be cherished. She taught Welsh in high school for 7 years. Today western Wales has the most Welsh speakers. Rhiaian spoke Welsh initially as we toured around but spoke English only when the other person (i.e. me) could not speak Welsh. While Mike was in meetings, we toured northern Wales and visited a number of villages.

Llangollen – a picturesque village, and according to their claim “Llangollen and the Dee Valley have the richest collection of myths and legends, historical figures, stunning landscapes and family based activities than anywhere else in Wales”. We bought a red stuffed dragon for Drew at the extensive culture center. The Victorian era schoolhouse is preserved, including it’s sign “No Welsh Spoken Here.”A child who made the mistake of using a Welsh word had to wear this wooden sign the rest of the day. In contrast, there is a nearby town where one must speak Welsh to get decent service.

We drove to the mansion belonging to ‘the Ladies of  Llangollen.’ Their sharing this home caused some scandal at the time. Wordsworth and other celebrities were entertained in this cozy and elegant home full of wonderful wood carvings. The surrounding gardens show off the green valley and running stream.

Onto the ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey standing starkly in an open field. Slate walls and roof bely the abrupt closure by Henry VIII.

That evening we joined the other meeting attendees for a medieval dinner at Ruthin Castle. Several peacocks greeted us outside the massive doors. Somehow I was asked to be a Baroness for the evening and to sit at the head table.  I remembered not to drink more than one cup of sweet mead (fermented honey!). Unfortunately, but authentically we had only one table implement-a dagger. It was quite a challenge to eat my lamb chop and shredded carrots. A choir sang Welsh songs accompanied by harpist and clavicordist. Lovely.

WREXHAM CITY

Another day Rhiaian and I toured Wrexham City, past St. Giles Church built in the 16^th c. Elihu Yale, founder of the eponymous university, is buried there. In 1901 Yale graduates sponsored a restoration of the old church. A replica of the church tower stands on the Yale campus.

Time for tea, of course. We walked upstairs into a cozy room. (I later learned that the quieter and more private upstairs costs a bit more and is considered nicer). The treacle tart was too sweet for my tastes, but I loved observing the other customers and chatting.

We stopped at the local public library where children and adults have 100% access to the filtered internet and e-mail. An adult may ask the librarian to unblock a site. The facility was very welcoming to families. Lots of child sized spaces plus posters and workbooks for sale. They offer programs for all ages with toddler programs twice each week. The staff are mostly bilingual. There is a large Welsh language picturebook collection.

In partnership with the Arts Commission, they have rotating art exhibits, with some pieces for sale.

The meeting participants were taken on a 4 hour whirlwind bus tour of Wales past: Bethesda, Beaumaris Castle, Conway Castle, and the Irish Sea. We saw the Stone Inside Out House built in 36 hours in order to get the land free of charge. Lush green and purple heather covered the valleys against the dramatic backdrop of Mt. Snowdon. That evening we were enchanted by a Welsh Men’s Choir of about 60 singing for the 50 of us! We visited with a tenor who is a farmer by day. The ‘beefy’ hands and angelic, powerful voices reminded me of Grandpa Freeman who grew up nearby in Wigan, England.

 I toured Portmeiron set in valley near an estuary and framed by heather-covered hills, lovely clouds, shadowed mountains of Snowdon. We lunch by the sea in a highly decorated toney restaurant. Scrumptious fresh salmon with leek risotto then raspberry chocolate tart. I think I am enjoying Mike’s birthday more than he at the time as he is listening to lectures and I am fine dining with a view and fascinating company. Mike was honored during his birthday dinner with a fuitcake covered with hard fondant frosting.

On this last evening, we say “Good-bye” to our tissue banking friends:

Glyn abd Rhiaian –Wales

Sam –Boston

Anne- Poland

Jon-Slovakia

Emma- Chile

Fortunato- Argentina

Aziz – Singapore

Nazily – Indonesia

Norimah- Malaysia

Astrid – India

Sim- Korea

Kang –Korea

Ted- USA

Rudi- Germany

Helli and Bill Tomford –USA

Mike and I set off on our own for a driving tour beginning with a pleasant meal at the Corn Mill right on the River Dee.

We drove to the Park n’Ride, and then took public bus to picturesque Chester, England where we walked on top of the ancient Roman wall. The town, with it’s rows (two levels) of shops, looks much as it has for centuries. We stopped at an inn to ask directions. The bartender chatted with us, then (jokingly?) suggested that Dad not stay in town after dark as he had Welsh blood. There is much animosity between the English and the Welsh. An intricate gold clock decorates a small bridgeway in the center of town.

We checked out of our B&B and set out for the northern coastline of Wales. The entry into Conway is awesome. The castle looms grand and formidable. Dad’s ancestor, Edward I of England, occasionally stayed here in the 13^th c.Conway is one of many castles he built in order to bring locals under England’s control. A talented guide led us to Edward’s chambers ad those of his wife, Eleanor. Castles were cozier than we imagined- fireplaces and huge tapestries took the chill out of the interior rooms. There was a mock jousting tournament in the center of Coernorfan Castle where Edward II was born.

WIGAN ENGLAND

Sunny’s Grandpa Freeman was raised in this mining town between Liverpool and Manchester. How I wished we had known his street address was Frog Lane! I learned this a few years after our visit. Still, it was wonderful to stare at buildings 100+ years old and know my jolly, generous grandpa must have walked right by them! I had expected a dark, gray mining town. What greeted us was the pleasant town center and nearby neighborhoods, quite pleasant. Many Victorian buildings remain. Wigan Pier abuts a canal. It is a running joke to refer to Wigan as scenic due to this one scenic spot.

COUNTY INN TY’N  RHOS WALES

            Rain interfered with our strolling the large farm, seeing the two lakes and enjoying the extensive gardens. However, this secluded inn is beautifully equipped to distract its guests with a cozy lounge, bar, and garden room plus exquisitely appointed rooms and gourmet meals. Recommend.

Welsh Breakfast: Oysters, potato pattie, bacon, scrambled eggs and leeks, fresh juices.

MANCHESTER AIRPORT

            We stayed at the Radisson at Terminal 2. I mention it because our dinner was fabulous; a memorable sea bass with very thin slices of pear and fresh spinach. I loved it! Accompanied with our best white wine since landing in the UK.