India 2006

Our flight into Mumbai was delayed due to traffic congestion. When we did arrive, we were delighted to see Firozi Patel, our tour guide, at the airport at midnight! We were driven to the hotel where we slept two hours, then were driven to the airport for our flight to Delhi. After a five-hour drive through the countryside, we arrived at the Taj View Hotel in Agra. We could see the Taj Mahal from our room.

I read about the Taj Mahal, but still was amazed by the gorgeous inlay work and stone carvings. So graceful and elegant in design! I learned ‘taj’ means ‘the crown’. We also toured the Agra Fort, home of the famous ruler, Akbar, a moghul king with 1300 concubines! He had quite a compound, including an elephant pit, stables and a moat.

On our drive back to the hotel, we saw camels, donkeys, monkeys, oh my! Also goats, water buffalo, Brahmin bulls, and cows. Lots of dogs everywhere. Saw a pack of eight dogs running in a field. Spotted a huge elephant decorated with Hindu jewels. (Mindi?) The silos dotting the fields were artful bundles of straw of several different designs. Much more charming than our steel silos.

My first impressions of India:

1.     The bright, bold colors of the dress.

2.     Smiles

3.     Poverty

4.     Smells (mostly good)

5.     Diversity

6.     Hospitality

7.     Spirituality

8.     Dust & Dirt

9.     Little is wasted

10.  Much is shared!

The Indian newspaper reported that only Mexico and Argentina’s teens were happier and more satisfied with their parents than the Indian teens were. This happiness in being a treasured part of a family was awesome to behold.

On route to the airport we joined the daily commute. Many people crammed into small tuk tuks, vans and buses. The trucks on the highway sported big signs urging nearby vehicles to “Use Your Horn” and “Horn, Please”. It’s not road rage, but a courteous way to alert other vehicles of your proximity.

An article I read alerted me to the many missteps I’ve already made in India:

• I use my left (to them my unclean) hand for everything
• I wore my welcome lei of marigolds, rather than setting it aside.
• Sometimes I cross my legs.
• I say ‘thank you’ which may insult my hosts.
• I touch Michael in public.
• I wear leather shoes.
• I blow my nose in public.
• I serve cheese to my Asian friends when they visit in USA.

In the context of India, knowing one’s place can be a good thing. Asking someone to step outside his caste is not considerate. The Sunday paper has a four-page section called “Matrimonials”. It describes all who are looking for matches as beautiful, handsome, intelligent, from prestigious families and convent schools, with advanced degrees etc. Tribes, religions, castes are indicated. One of my American friends commented, “At least they are direct about what they want”.

Aurangabad, India

The Taj Aurangabad, white Moorish style, is gorgeous with well-maintained grounds. Our room overlooked a pool and the gardens. The service is so attentive and gracious. I could have lived there for quite a time!  Our first night, there was a company party for Johnson & Johnson. Splendid people watching from our dinner table under the portico. There were magic shows, games, music, and awards. One family approached us and asked to have a picture with us. I was reminded of the Japanese tourists asking for a picture with our grandsons in Golden Gate Park. Maybe Aurangabad residents see fewer Americans? Mike thinks my silver hair was the anomaly. Who knows? After this family visited with us, some children approached practicing their English. (ie “I think you are nice”). Adorable! I used this interaction to ask for the name of some good shops in the area. People were most helpful.

Ajanta Caves

Each of our Indian friends recommended we see the ancient caves near Aurangabad when we asked what to see with our five free touring days. We visited Ajanta, where, in 1819 an Englishman discovered ancient (200 ad-7c.) caves while hunting tigers. The monks used these caves:

1. To weather the monsoon season
2. to meditate
3. to teach pilgrims who were illiterate the events in Buddha’s life.

While at the caves, I bought 5 necklaces which the seller insisted were:

Garnet, blue jade, onyx, sunstone, and tiger eyes. We saw chucks of amethyst on the ground while we hiked. Sunstone is specific to Aurangabad.

Some of the painting are-uh- more voluptuous than religious to the Western eye. Tales from folklore mix with myths of gods and goddesses. Beautifully painted ceilings can be seen in the lighter caves.

On the road between Aurangabad and Ajanta, we passed schoolyards where uniformed children sat cross-legged on the earth in four rows before their teachers. Children are entitled to schooling until age eleven. High school awaits those who pass the entrance exam. Whatever one’s religion, it is prestigious to graduate from a convent school. The literacy rate is around 50%, lower for Muslims.

Cotton was being harvested. We passed fields of sunflowers and sugar cane. Camels pulled carts or sat alongside the road. We were in a traffic jam and could watch men and women rebuild a road washed out in the monsoon season. They hefted each rock by hand, walked a short distance, then dropped it and went to fetch another. All this in 90 degree heat.

Ellora Caves

This series of caves follows the Ajanta in chronology. There are temples and monasteries from three religious traditions: Buddhist, Hindu and Jain. Sensual, explicit, inticate carvings and paintings. Statues of the young Buddha depicting events in his life.

How we missed our grandchildren at Cave #16 the Kailasa Temple! It is full of dark hidden staircases, crannies, altars, buddhas, and deep resounding echoes. I was reminded of our trip to Chamonix, France when Mike and Dave ran the steep staircases and perched on the parapets!

We toured the Baby Taj and the tomb of Akbar.

Challenges in India:

1. Seeing poor and sick people.
2. Listening to aggressive, persistent hawkers.
3. The difficulty of understand the rapid, accented English.
4. Our digestive system’s reaction to 9 days of spicy food.
5. Worrying about bugs and germs.
6. Needing to have a driver, as traffic is wild on the street and sidewalks.

The Aurangabad Airport has a lovely garden adjacent to the runways making a fine impression for departing and arriving passengers. We flew to Mumbai on Thanksgiving Day, eating dinner with an American friend. Again our flight was delayed, but she waited for us. Generally we shun the hotel as too tame for our meals. In India, we ate only in the hotel and the conference venues. Still, we got sick. Oh well………..

Viewing Mumbai from the airport car at night, it seemed as if all 14 million Mumbai inhabitants were on the streets! The streets are so conjested, it takes a long time to get anywhere. Our room at the Taj President Hotel overlooked the beach.  However, it was fogged or smogged most of our stay. On the last day, it cleared and we could see the beautiful Arabian Sea. In a year, the reconstruction of the seaside promenade will make this an attractive stroll. When I took a suburban tour, we visited a clearer part of the coastline. Several luxury hotels took advantage of this view.

A highlight of Mumbai was visiting the building where Gandhi lived for several years, Mani Bhavan. How inspiring to read the letters he wrote to Einstein, Hitler, Tolstoy and President Roosevelt urging non-violent solutions. Gandhi wrote and spoke against the caste system, especially the class of untouchables. His humble bedroom is preserved. The furnishings are sparse: white mat, looms, books, and a light. Dioramas upstairs mark major events in his fight for Indian independence. He gave all to his people. How I admire that!

The Jehangin Art Gallery is worth a stop. Three exhibit halls and a great gift shop. I fell in love with a painting. Noticing a “no photos” sign, I asked the person sitting nearby if I could take a picture without a flash. She smilingly identified herself as the artist. You can see her in our slide show. Modern sculptures in bronze affirmed the human condition. Maybe not all art must stem from angst?

Tried something new from the Taj President’s breakfast buffet. It was a Kustan Apple. (sp?) Had a kiwi consistency, quite tasty with many black seeds. Unfortunately, my beloved mangosteens were not in season!

Cultural Evening

We were invited into a conference room where we watched elegant dancers demonstrate native dances. One man switched from acting like a woman to acting like a man. His costume was divided into male and female dress. This third gender (Hiras) can be seen more frequently in India. Men with makeup and woman’s dress are thought to have special powers to curse those they dislike.

After the entertainment, we had a traditional Indian meal followed by……………..Haagen-Dazs ice cream.

The Reading Tree Children’s Library

Took a cab (forty-five minutes) on a Saturday morning hoping to observe their storytime. Just like in the USA, at times, no families showed up for their program! I then thoroughly enjoyed chatting with the storyteller and librarian. I asked them about their work and they asked me about my daily life in America. “How old are you?” “Are the people in your town friendly?” One of these young women spent one month in Manhattan with her sister-in-law. She thought it was too slow and returned to her native beloved Mumbai! I told her this was a new way for me to look at NYC! This subscription library serves Hindu families with English language materials. An architect started it just four years ago. I told them my short native American poem with sign language as a gift for their time.  This was a highlight of my time in Mumbai as it felt like a person-to-person connection, not a tourist to vendor one!

Visiting a large Hare Krishna temple was dramatic. We arrived, sat on the floor outside three shrines and near a waxen depiction of a lord. As the monks blew through their seashells, the golden doors opened to reveal highly bejeweled figures and altars. The recorded chant was playing in the background. We were asked not to turn our backs on the lord.

We also visited St. Mary’s Church where our Muslim guide prayed at the Mary statue. She said she frequently asks Mary for favors and believes she has special powers as the mother of the prophet, Jesus. The inclusiveness of the Indians as they embrace aspects of many religions, inspires.

Final Evening of Conference

Our older colleague, Glyn Phillips, traditionally urged each country at these Asian Tissue Bank meetings to present a song from his/her country. Glyn, being a Welshman can sing and would lead the festivities. He left the tissue bank field to pursue business interests, so I felt we should continue the tradition. I told the story “Caps for Sale” by Slobodkina then invited Dr. Yim from Seoul to sing. He has a wonderful voice. Each group contributed something. It was fun. One Indian man imitated Donald Duck! Dad encouraged our hosts, Dr. Astrid Lobo and Dr. Kalpesh Gajiwala to join us on the dance floor. They are a handsome couple and very gracious. We have known Astrid for many years and now could get to know her husband as well. I was ever so pleased I had bought a bright red top and swishy red and white skirt for the occasion! (total cost in Aurangabad = $22). Somehow that evening of dancing was my favorite to date. I seemed to share Dad’s sense of rhythm, not just follow him in trepidation. I loved it!

Final Day in India

Mrs. Yim called to invite me to Mass at nearby historic Holy Names church. She has a special devotion to Virgin Mary. She prays and paints her image. A woman approached us after Mass and offered a vial of holy water to Mrs. Yim. It was from a place Pope John Paul called “the Lourdes of the East.”

That afternoon, Mike and I had a private tour of Mumbai and a golden opportunity to purchase a swirly diamond pendant for me and a pretty hand-knotted silk carpet! We walked in the Hanging Gardens, took Mike to the Gandhi museum, bought huge balloons from vendor at the Gate of India and drove past the grand Victoria train station.

What a trip! Part of my time was spent e-mailing to my co-author and talking with our editor for the upcoming book. Can’t say my brain was the clearest it’s ever been. There is a thirteen hour time difference between Seattle and Mumbai. However, admit it was really cool to receive the editor’s cell call while having dinner in London!

Once again, I repeat my mantra…..Being Tired is the Price of an Interesting Life!