India 2006
Our flight into Mumbai was delayed due to traffic
congestion. When we did arrive, we were delighted to see Firozi Patel, our tour
guide, at the airport at midnight! We were driven to the hotel where we slept
two hours, then were driven to the airport for our flight to Delhi. After a
five-hour drive through the countryside, we arrived at the Taj View Hotel in
Agra. We could see the Taj Mahal from our room.
I read about the Taj Mahal, but still was amazed by the
gorgeous inlay work and stone carvings. So graceful and elegant in design! I
learned ‘taj’ means ‘the crown’. We also toured the Agra Fort, home of the
famous ruler, Akbar, a moghul king with 1300 concubines! He had quite a
compound, including an elephant pit, stables and a moat.
On our drive back to the hotel, we saw camels, donkeys,
monkeys, oh my! Also goats, water buffalo, Brahmin bulls, and cows. Lots of
dogs everywhere. Saw a pack of eight dogs running in a field. Spotted a huge
elephant decorated with Hindu jewels. (Mindi?) The silos dotting the fields
were artful bundles of straw of several different designs. Much more charming
than our steel silos.
My first impressions of India:
1. The
bright, bold colors of the dress.
2. Smiles
3. Poverty
4. Smells
(mostly good)
5. Diversity
6. Hospitality
7. Spirituality
8. Dust
& Dirt
9. Little
is wasted
10. Much is
shared!
The Indian newspaper reported that only Mexico and
Argentina’s teens were happier and more satisfied with their parents than the
Indian teens were. This happiness in being a treasured part of a family was
awesome to behold.
On route to the airport we joined the daily commute. Many
people crammed into small tuk tuks, vans and buses. The trucks on the highway
sported big signs urging nearby vehicles to “Use Your Horn” and “Horn, Please”.
It’s not road rage, but a courteous way to alert other vehicles of your
proximity.
An article I read alerted me to the many missteps I’ve
already made in India:
- I use
my left (to them my unclean) hand for everything
- I wore
my welcome lei of marigolds, rather than setting it aside.
- Sometimes
I cross my legs.
- I say
‘thank you’ which may insult my hosts.
- I
touch Michael in public.
- I wear
leather shoes.
- I blow
my nose in public.
- I
serve cheese to my Asian friends when they visit in USA.
In the context of India, knowing one’s place can be a good
thing. Asking someone to step outside his caste is not considerate. The Sunday
paper has a four-page section called “Matrimonials”. It describes all who are
looking for matches as beautiful, handsome, intelligent, from prestigious
families and convent schools, with advanced degrees etc. Tribes, religions,
castes are indicated. One of my American friends commented, “At least they are
direct about what they want”.
Aurangabad, India
The Taj Aurangabad, white Moorish style, is gorgeous with
well-maintained grounds. Our room overlooked a pool and the gardens. The
service is so attentive and gracious. I could have lived there for quite a
time! Our first night, there was a
company party for Johnson & Johnson. Splendid people watching from our
dinner table under the portico. There were magic shows, games, music, and
awards. One family approached us and asked to have a picture with us. I was
reminded of the Japanese tourists asking for a picture with our grandsons in
Golden Gate Park. Maybe Aurangabad residents see fewer Americans? Mike thinks
my silver hair was the anomaly. Who knows? After this family visited with us,
some children approached practicing their English. (ie “I think you are nice”).
Adorable! I used this interaction to ask for the name of some good shops in the
area. People were most helpful.
Ajanta
Caves
Each of our Indian friends recommended we see the ancient
caves near Aurangabad when we asked what to see with our five free touring
days. We visited Ajanta, where, in 1819 an Englishman discovered ancient (200
ad-7c.) caves while hunting tigers. The monks used these caves:
- To
weather the monsoon season
- to
meditate
- to
teach pilgrims who were illiterate the events in Buddha’s life.
While at the caves, I bought 5 necklaces which the seller
insisted were:
Garnet, blue jade, onyx, sunstone, and tiger eyes. We saw
chucks of amethyst on the ground while we hiked. Sunstone is specific to
Aurangabad.
Some of the painting are-uh- more voluptuous than religious
to the Western eye. Tales from folklore mix with myths of gods and goddesses.
Beautifully painted ceilings can be seen in the lighter caves.
On the road between Aurangabad and Ajanta, we passed
schoolyards where uniformed children sat cross-legged on the earth in four rows
before their teachers. Children are entitled to schooling until age eleven.
High school awaits those who pass the entrance exam. Whatever one’s religion,
it is prestigious to graduate from a convent school. The literacy rate is
around 50%, lower for Muslims.
Cotton was being harvested. We passed fields of sunflowers
and sugar cane. Camels pulled carts or sat alongside the road. We were in a
traffic jam and could watch men and women rebuild a road washed out in the
monsoon season. They hefted each rock by hand, walked a short distance, then
dropped it and went to fetch another. All this in 90 degree heat.
Ellora
Caves
This series of caves follows the Ajanta in
chronology. There are temples and monasteries from three religious traditions:
Buddhist, Hindu and Jain. Sensual, explicit, inticate carvings and paintings.
Statues of the young Buddha depicting events in his life.
How we missed our grandchildren at Cave #16 the Kailasa
Temple! It is full of dark hidden staircases, crannies, altars, buddhas, and
deep resounding echoes. I was reminded of our trip to Chamonix, France when
Mike and Dave ran the steep staircases and perched on the parapets!
We toured the Baby Taj and the tomb of Akbar.
Challenges in India:
- Seeing
poor and sick people.
- Listening
to aggressive, persistent hawkers.
- The
difficulty of understand the rapid, accented English.
- Our
digestive system’s reaction to 9 days of spicy food.
- Worrying
about bugs and germs.
- Needing
to have a driver, as traffic is wild on the street and sidewalks.
The Aurangabad Airport has a lovely garden adjacent to the
runways making a fine impression for departing and arriving passengers. We flew
to Mumbai on Thanksgiving Day, eating dinner with an American friend. Again our
flight was delayed, but she waited for us. Generally we shun the hotel as too
tame for our meals. In India, we ate only in the hotel and the conference
venues. Still, we got sick. Oh well………..
Viewing Mumbai from the airport car at night, it seemed as
if all 14 million Mumbai inhabitants were on the streets! The streets are so
conjested, it takes a long time to get anywhere. Our room at the Taj President
Hotel overlooked the beach. However, it
was fogged or smogged most of our stay. On the last day, it cleared and we
could see the beautiful Arabian Sea. In a year, the reconstruction of the
seaside promenade will make this an attractive stroll. When I took a suburban
tour, we visited a clearer part of the coastline. Several luxury hotels took
advantage of this view.
A highlight of Mumbai was visiting the building where Gandhi
lived for several years, Mani Bhavan. How inspiring to read the letters he
wrote to Einstein, Hitler, Tolstoy and President Roosevelt urging non-violent
solutions. Gandhi wrote and spoke against the caste system, especially the
class of untouchables. His humble bedroom is preserved. The furnishings are
sparse: white mat, looms, books, and a light. Dioramas upstairs mark major
events in his fight for Indian independence. He gave all to his people. How I
admire that!
The Jehangin Art Gallery is worth a stop. Three exhibit
halls and a great gift shop. I fell in love with a painting. Noticing a “no
photos” sign, I asked the person sitting nearby if I could take a picture
without a flash. She smilingly identified herself as the artist. You can see
her in our slide show. Modern sculptures in bronze affirmed the human
condition. Maybe not all art must stem from angst?
Tried something new from the Taj President’s breakfast
buffet. It was a Kustan Apple. (sp?) Had a kiwi consistency, quite tasty with
many black seeds. Unfortunately, my beloved mangosteens were not in season!
Cultural Evening
We were invited into a conference room where we watched
elegant dancers demonstrate native dances. One man switched from acting like a
woman to acting like a man. His costume was divided into male and female dress.
This third gender (Hiras) can be seen more frequently in India. Men with makeup
and woman’s dress are thought to have special powers to curse those they
dislike.
After the entertainment, we had a traditional Indian meal
followed by……………..Haagen-Dazs ice cream.
The Reading Tree Children’s Library
Took a cab (forty-five minutes) on a Saturday morning hoping
to observe their storytime. Just like in the USA, at times, no families showed
up for their program! I then thoroughly enjoyed chatting with the storyteller
and librarian. I asked them about their work and they asked me about my daily
life in America. “How old are you?” “Are the people in your town friendly?” One
of these young women spent one month in Manhattan with her sister-in-law. She
thought it was too slow and returned to her native beloved Mumbai! I told her
this was a new way for me to look at NYC! This subscription library serves
Hindu families with English language materials. An architect started it just
four years ago. I told them my short native American poem with sign language as
a gift for their time. This was a
highlight of my time in Mumbai as it felt like a person-to-person connection,
not a tourist to vendor one!
Visiting a large Hare Krishna temple was dramatic. We
arrived, sat on the floor outside three shrines and near a waxen depiction of a
lord. As the monks blew through their seashells, the golden doors opened to
reveal highly bejeweled figures and altars. The recorded chant was playing in
the background. We were asked not to turn our backs on the lord.
We also visited St. Mary’s Church where our Muslim guide
prayed at the Mary statue. She said she frequently asks Mary for favors and
believes she has special powers as the mother of the prophet, Jesus. The
inclusiveness of the Indians as they embrace aspects of many religions,
inspires.
Final Evening of Conference
Our older colleague, Glyn Phillips, traditionally urged each
country at these Asian Tissue Bank meetings to present a song from his/her
country. Glyn, being a Welshman can sing and would lead the festivities. He
left the tissue bank field to pursue business interests, so I felt we should
continue the tradition. I told the story “Caps for Sale” by Slobodkina then
invited Dr. Yim from Seoul to sing. He has a wonderful voice. Each group
contributed something. It was fun. One Indian man imitated Donald Duck! Dad
encouraged our hosts, Dr. Astrid Lobo and Dr. Kalpesh Gajiwala to join us on
the dance floor. They are a handsome couple and very gracious. We have known
Astrid for many years and now could get to know her husband as well. I was ever
so pleased I had bought a bright red top and swishy red and white skirt for the
occasion! (total cost in Aurangabad = $22). Somehow that evening of dancing was
my favorite to date. I seemed to share Dad’s sense of rhythm, not just follow
him in trepidation. I loved it!
Final Day in India
Mrs. Yim called to invite me to Mass at nearby historic Holy
Names church. She has a special devotion to Virgin Mary. She prays and paints
her image. A woman approached us after Mass and offered a vial of holy water to
Mrs. Yim. It was from a place Pope John Paul called “the Lourdes of the East.”
That afternoon, Mike and I had a private tour of Mumbai and
a golden opportunity to purchase a swirly diamond pendant for me and a pretty
hand-knotted silk carpet! We walked in the Hanging Gardens, took Mike to the
Gandhi museum, bought huge balloons from vendor at the Gate of India and drove
past the grand Victoria train station.
What a trip! Part of my time was spent e-mailing to my
co-author and talking with our editor for the upcoming book. Can’t say my brain
was the clearest it’s ever been. There is a thirteen hour time difference
between Seattle and Mumbai. However, admit it was really cool to receive the
editor’s cell call while having dinner in London!
Once again, I repeat my mantra…..Being Tired is the Price of
an Interesting Life!
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