Vietnam 11/2007

Good Morning Vietnam! Nov.2007, Nov 18, 2007

We splurged on Business Class with EVA (Taiwanese) Air and had the most comfortable sleep ever-wonderful start. From the air we could see the many winding rivers, canals, lakes, beaches and then, the 3 million-population capitol city. The manner of customs was not rude, but my apprehension re: Vietnamese War colored my first moments. We were told exactly where to stand. It seemed a harsh command until I realized my picture was being taken and the position was important. Our conference hotel, the Melia, was one of a string of super elegant, modern, luxurious hotels in Hanoi. They have prepared to be a tourist destination. When the Prime Minister of Mynamar became a guest at the Melia, there was much fuss. We needed to pass through an airport-like security point whenever we crossed the lobby. His entourage all wore smart black western tailored suits. Gorgeous bouquets welcomed him. We walked around Hoan Kiem Lake, which was between the Hotel Melia and the quaint, bustling Old Quarter of town. One after the other university students tried to sell us books, maps, postcards. I was impressed with the high literary quality of the books. Bought 10 postcards, then (risking our lives) we crossed the busy street to the International Post Office and purchased 10 stamps. The same friendly, smiling people who helped us during our journey, almost killed us each time we crossed a street! The guidebook advised assertive body language and consistent signals plus no hesitation while crossing. It's an art, I'm sure. I observed a security officer asking a young person to sit differently on a park bench. Too bad I can't understand Vietnamese. I did notice that an abrupt "shouting" manner of speech was used among Vietnamese as well,so is standard I suspect. Again, my atavistic response is probably prehistory from the war. The Vietnamese tactfully refer to it as "Our civil war". I did feel under constant surveillance. Once when we were lost, we benefited from a security officer's being on duty and willingly helping us find our way. Just as I was chilled by this manner, I was warmed by their open, earnest gratitude for the money received from other countries so they could improve their standard of living. They are gradually paving more of their roads. In one case, they charged a toll just long enough for pay the Germans back for the money loaned. They proudly work very very long hours as part of the effort. One gets the impression that ALL people will rise together. Might this be a positive aspect of communism? Tour guides mentioned 'nationalism', 'confucius', 'taoism' 'budhism' much more often than 'communism'. The "Vietnamese News" in English, included an interview of a Vietnamese man traveling to Russia to celebrate the anniversary of the October Revolution, which "freed the people". On the other hand, another issue deplored the poor taste of one region's coffee because the pickers continued their old practice of picking both the ripe and nearly ripe beans. Superstitions are taken seriously here; dog meat, eaten at the end of one-month, means good luck for the coming month. If anyone sees some gold and takes it, his family will experience a death in the near future. Fresh flowers are less expensive. Beautiful funeral wreaths border the dustiest of roads: orange and yellow for some, all-white for single women who die. A woman of 25 who is unmarried is still suspect. We passed many cemeteries. There is one burial in a wooden casket (which are sold in open stores stacked near the street and beautifully decorated). Then, 3 years later, the grave is opened, the bones rinsed with rice wine, then buried in a stone box. Although parents do not formally arrange marriages, they have great influence as does the astrological sign and the Chinese year designation (ie tiger might not marry dog because tiger will be too dominant). I asked about holidays that were important to the guide. He responded that Chinese New Year was his favorite because everyone took 5 days off from work and enjoyed each other's company. A baby's first birthday is another cause celebre'. For Women's Day each October, the guide buys fresh flowers for : wife, sister, sister-in-law, mother-in-law, mother. Vietnamese Independence Day is another wonderful holiday for him.

 TOUR #1 Bat Trong (Ceramic Factory) & Dong KY (Furniture factory) My companions were a French couple now living in Toronto: Jean-Pierre et Anna-Lise. We crossed the Red River, which continues on to China. There is a valued bridge, which has been bombed and rebuilt several times. 1,000 years of domination by the Chinese followed by 100 years of French rule followed by the American intervention means they cherish the present one state of Vietnam. Some of the reading I did suggested the economic and educational benefits favored the south of Vietnam, yet Ho Chi Ming City (Saigon) is replete with banks and trade. Narrow, lovely, multistory homes along the river and in the countryside. A new one costs about $20,000 to build, not counting the land. A new floor is added when another son marries. Each home facade is unique. Most have an open porch on top and windowless sides. The latter guarantee privacy should another house be built next door. An extended family shares the home. When a third child is born (not recommended by the government), a one-time $200 tax is levied. ($1,000/yr. is typical income). Before 1986, a typical year's salary is $100. One guide's wife had twins after already having a child. They did not owe the tax as they had obeyed the maximum pregnancies rule. Vietnamese names can be translated, such as "hero" or 'peacemaker' or 'graceful one'. Whether in the city or countryside, the ongoing parade of motorbikes is fascinating! The guide claims he saw 3 water buffalo strapped to one bike. I believe it. I saw maybe 50 fish traps balanced and strung together on one bicycle. Saw fragile porcelain in wooden shelves on motorbikes, etc. Bought 2 bracelets and a necklace of clay at an outdoor market. i asked whether local people shopped there as it looked so authentic and was in a small village. "Oh no," replied the guide. "Only tourists buy here". Several times when I bought something and proffered a large bill, the vendor would give me another product rather than change. In fact, I knew I had paid too much for the 2 bracelets, when the vendor insisted I accept the necklace. Bat Trang Ceramic Factory uses clay from the Red River to make dishes, figures, vases, etc. I asked the guide whether these villagers were carrying out an ancient tradition. "Oh no," he said. "They started this 15 years ago to make money from the tourists". Many times I was reminded of a domestic 'Peace Corps'. The government trained villagers in a new craft to raise their standard of living. There is a recent initiative for all children to be educated. Dong Ky village shops display mahogany furniture, some inlaid with oyster shell and carved in intricate story designs. The wood is imported from Burma, Cambodia and Laos.

 OPENING CEREMONY FOR INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF BLOOD TRANSFUSION Government officials welcomed us to their almost (in 2010) one thousand year old city. One minister predicted all Vietnamese will speak and understand English by 2010. They are so industrious I believe it! After many speeches, we were entertained by two dance troupes: one of 10-12 year old girls; the other adult dancers with flowing dresses and swoopy banners. Lovely! The typical Vietnamese tunics over long pants show off their lithe lovely figures and grace. How do the nation's magazines survive when there is no need for a zillion articles on dieting??? Our Brazilian host, Silvano Wendel, joined us for a gourmet dinner at the Green Tangerine. A favorite was mild small peppers stuffed with melting chocolate truffles! The French-influenced sauces were magnifiques.

TOUR #2 HANOI CITY Confucianism guides conduct. There are many rules and each person knows his or her place. Men are privileged I believe. Internet cafes abound. Many families have purchased motorbikes and TV's in recent years. As in other Asian countries, a huge tax makes at $10,000 automobile cost $30,000. The red in the Vietnamese flag represents the blood spilled in war. The Star honors 5 categories of people: farmers, soldiers, teachers, business people and all others. We toured the grounds of The Temple of Literature. This is a moniker a librarian could love! This first university was founded in 1070. A large lily pond outside the temple is prettily in bloom with deep pink flowers. Fancy wooden carvings decorate the ancestral altars. The Museum of Ethnology, established in 1995 is well designed and informative. Vietnam is shaped like an 'S'; lots of mountains and miles of beach. Among the artful displays of customs, tribes, crafts, puppetry, fabric art, I recognized the Hmong tribes among the many central highland peoples described. Some live in longhouses. Some are so colorfully, beautifully dressed. A student approached me when I was touring the typical house style buildings outside. She asked me to fill out a questionnaire evaluating the museum. Then, just when I was looking forward to visiting the Communal Hall on stilts, the guide asked Mike and I to be interviewed by a TV crew who again asked for our opinion of Vietnam.

TOUR #3 Ninh Minh Bay (south of Hanoi) Along the highway we saw guava and banana trees plus dirt/dust encrusted vines and plants. Polluted air is a HUGE problem in Vietnam. Our eyes are red and soar, our throats scratchy. Many wear facemasks. Vendors sold 8 baguettes for $1 along the highways. The traffic is so dense and going all directions, it's a wonder no one runs over these vendors. When asked whether there is any traffic control, the guide explained 3 infractions on one's license (purchased just once in a lifetime) means no driving for two years. When we exclaimed that would be a terrible hardship on the people, he retorted, "Oh no one ever gets 3 infractions because we bribe the police!" On the other hand, lovely blooming vines cover thatched roofs to handsome effect! Country houses may have haystacks at the driveway entrance. This is left over after the harvest and is used as fuel. When the farmers are not actively caring for their crops, some work in the many brick factories, which use clay from the riverbanks. 10% of produce from the farm goes to the government, which owns the land. Each village and neighborhood has a community hall and a loudspeaker system for announcing births, deaths, marriages, and diarrhea prevention measures! We were in Hanoi during a cholera epidemic! I asked how life has changed since independence. Our guide explained that his father, before 1986, worked all day at a factory and was paid with some rice and red powder. He was afraid to ask for meat to feed his family. Each was given the exact amount of rice by the government whether he worked hard or not.

 HOA LU Large Buddhist temple and grounds in former capitol of Vietnam. Lacquered mahogany gleaming with gold swirly designs in organic patterns. At the end of the day, a little food is left on the altars; the rest is distributed to those who work there.

 TAM COC (means 3 caves) Mona, another accompanying spouse, joined me in the tour. She's a neat lady from Quebec City. We boarded a kayak/rowboat with two rowers. The natural setting was beautiful, limestone mountains, grass and stone buildings, teahouse. Vendors abound! Each boat had fruit or drinks or souvenir crafts to sell. It is difficult to avoid the overtures when our rower retrieved souvenir after souvenir from this small boats recesses. I bought some embroidered pouches to use for small gifts. The three caves were wonderfully atmospheric. Low hanging stalagmites almost brushed our hair; dark, gloomy and then a relief, when we saw light at the other end.

DINNER AT THE DAEWOO HOTEL Oh my gosh. It was so exciting to be escorted to the outdoor dining near a huge elongated oval pool and stage. Silver and linen and crystal bedecked the small tables and endless buffet. All evening singers and dancers entertained us. Craftspeople demonstrated their calligraphy, ceramics and flower arranging. Just as the Clintons had a while back, we visited friends and colleagues from all over the world. How the Vietnamese love Bill Clinton. They credit him with championing their nation building. I pride myself for reading about the culture ahead of time. How funny it was to see that the elegant Vietnamese women ate their soup as we do while I was bringing the bowl to my lips as I had read was authentic! Oh well. The famous 'pho' rice noodles were delicious. I had mine with chicken, chives, and mushrooms. Another hit were the fresh coconut prawns- the best I'd ever tasted.

HA LONG BAY A World Heritage Site since 1993 Truly worth the trip. Expansive water, picturesque mountains, houseboats, foliage, caves; enchanting mix of gray-green water, bright yellow and red flags, green mountains, blue sky; dark stained wooden boats, some accommodating overnight guests and diners. Our boat was medium sized. What is truly memorable was my climb from the deck up 3 ft. leg lift to another boat then up another 3 ft. reach the boat behind it then another stretch to finally reach the boat behind that on the pier! The guide plus Dad plus our friend Gene Walther plus a Japanese doctor seemed to manage fine. I, frankly, needed some hoists. We sailed to a little village comprised of houseboats, markets and one school. Got off the boat at a floating fish market, purchasing yummy huge prawns, odd tasting clams, and squid. The cooks from our boat prepared these and served them in the dining room on the lower level of our boat. White Vietnamese wine was perfect with the fish, greens, Japanese pears, bananas.

DINNER FIASCO We decided to splurge on our last night in Hanoi by joining two gourmands (one from Luxembourg, one from Germany) at the tony Cafe de Paris. Got the address from the concierge. Took a cab. Needed to walk 2 blocks because it was pedestrian only. We reached the proper address only to be staring at a humble, neighborhood cafe with another name! The owner assured us this was Cafe de Paris in another life. She was welcoming and gracious. We were bewildered and wondering why: It seemed less snazzy than we expected given our friend's description, and it seemed odd they had not beaten us there. We didn't have their cell numbers. Oh my! Not wanting to offend our hostess, we decided to order fried chicken and sticky rice. We merely stared at the two tumblers of poured water. Mike had a beer. I actually loved the sticky rice balls. We both said grace praying that we wouldn't get sick from the meal. The next morning over breakfast buffet, we talked with our German friend Erhard. They had indeed gone to another Cafe de Paris and had waited for us! Oh well, this is the grist from which we obtain our stories? After all, we did live happily ever after....................... We ate well the whole week and didn't gain a pound.