Good Morning Vietnam!
Nov.2007, Nov 18, 2007
We splurged on Business Class with EVA (Taiwanese) Air and
had the most comfortable sleep ever-wonderful start. From the air we could see
the many winding rivers, canals, lakes, beaches and then, the 3
million-population capitol city. The manner of customs was not rude, but my
apprehension re: Vietnamese War colored my first moments. We were told exactly
where to stand. It seemed a harsh command until I realized my picture was being
taken and the position was important. Our conference hotel, the Melia, was one
of a string of super elegant, modern, luxurious hotels in Hanoi. They have
prepared to be a tourist destination. When the Prime Minister of Mynamar became
a guest at the Melia, there was much fuss. We needed to pass through an
airport-like security point whenever we crossed the lobby. His entourage all
wore smart black western tailored suits. Gorgeous bouquets welcomed him. We
walked around Hoan Kiem Lake, which was between the Hotel Melia and the quaint,
bustling Old Quarter of town. One after the other university students tried to
sell us books, maps, postcards. I was impressed with the high literary quality
of the books. Bought 10 postcards, then (risking our lives) we crossed the busy
street to the International Post Office and purchased 10 stamps. The same
friendly, smiling people who helped us during our journey, almost killed us
each time we crossed a street! The guidebook advised assertive body language
and consistent signals plus no hesitation while crossing. It's an art, I'm
sure. I observed a security officer asking a young person to sit differently on
a park bench. Too bad I can't understand Vietnamese. I did notice that an abrupt
"shouting" manner of speech was used among Vietnamese as well,so is
standard I suspect. Again, my atavistic response is probably prehistory from
the war. The Vietnamese tactfully refer to it as "Our civil war". I
did feel under constant surveillance. Once when we were lost, we benefited from
a security officer's being on duty and willingly helping us find our way. Just
as I was chilled by this manner, I was warmed by their open, earnest gratitude
for the money received from other countries so they could improve their
standard of living. They are gradually paving more of their roads. In one case,
they charged a toll just long enough for pay the Germans back for the money
loaned. They proudly work very very long hours as part of the effort. One gets
the impression that ALL people will rise together. Might this be a positive
aspect of communism? Tour guides mentioned 'nationalism', 'confucius', 'taoism'
'budhism' much more often than 'communism'. The "Vietnamese News" in
English, included an interview of a Vietnamese man traveling to Russia to
celebrate the anniversary of the October Revolution, which "freed the
people". On the other hand, another issue deplored the poor taste of one
region's coffee because the pickers continued their old practice of picking
both the ripe and nearly ripe beans. Superstitions are taken seriously here;
dog meat, eaten at the end of one-month, means good luck for the coming month.
If anyone sees some gold and takes it, his family will experience a death in
the near future. Fresh flowers are less expensive. Beautiful funeral wreaths
border the dustiest of roads: orange and yellow for some, all-white for single
women who die. A woman of 25 who is unmarried is still suspect. We passed many
cemeteries. There is one burial in a wooden casket (which are sold in open
stores stacked near the street and beautifully decorated). Then, 3 years later,
the grave is opened, the bones rinsed with rice wine, then buried in a stone
box. Although parents do not formally arrange marriages, they have great
influence as does the astrological sign and the Chinese year designation (ie
tiger might not marry dog because tiger will be too dominant). I asked about
holidays that were important to the guide. He responded that Chinese New Year
was his favorite because everyone took 5 days off from work and enjoyed each
other's company. A baby's first birthday is another cause celebre'. For Women's
Day each October, the guide buys fresh flowers for : wife, sister,
sister-in-law, mother-in-law, mother. Vietnamese Independence Day is another
wonderful holiday for him.
TOUR #1 Bat Trong
(Ceramic Factory) & Dong KY (Furniture factory) My companions were a French
couple now living in Toronto: Jean-Pierre et Anna-Lise. We crossed the Red
River, which continues on to China. There is a valued bridge, which has been
bombed and rebuilt several times. 1,000 years of domination by the Chinese
followed by 100 years of French rule followed by the American intervention
means they cherish the present one state of Vietnam. Some of the reading I did
suggested the economic and educational benefits favored the south of Vietnam,
yet Ho Chi Ming City (Saigon) is replete with banks and trade. Narrow, lovely,
multistory homes along the river and in the countryside. A new one costs about
$20,000 to build, not counting the land. A new floor is added when another son
marries. Each home facade is unique. Most have an open porch on top and
windowless sides. The latter guarantee privacy should another house be built
next door. An extended family shares the home. When a third child is born (not
recommended by the government), a one-time $200 tax is levied. ($1,000/yr. is
typical income). Before 1986, a typical year's salary is $100. One guide's wife
had twins after already having a child. They did not owe the tax as they had
obeyed the maximum pregnancies rule. Vietnamese names can be translated, such
as "hero" or 'peacemaker' or 'graceful one'. Whether in the city or
countryside, the ongoing parade of motorbikes is fascinating! The guide claims
he saw 3 water buffalo strapped to one bike. I believe it. I saw maybe 50 fish
traps balanced and strung together on one bicycle. Saw fragile porcelain in
wooden shelves on motorbikes, etc. Bought 2 bracelets and a necklace of clay at
an outdoor market. i asked whether local people shopped there as it looked so
authentic and was in a small village. "Oh no," replied the guide.
"Only tourists buy here". Several times when I bought something and
proffered a large bill, the vendor would give me another product rather than
change. In fact, I knew I had paid too much for the 2 bracelets, when the
vendor insisted I accept the necklace. Bat Trang Ceramic Factory uses clay from
the Red River to make dishes, figures, vases, etc. I asked the guide whether
these villagers were carrying out an ancient tradition. "Oh no," he
said. "They started this 15 years ago to make money from the
tourists". Many times I was reminded of a domestic 'Peace Corps'. The
government trained villagers in a new craft to raise their standard of living.
There is a recent initiative for all children to be educated. Dong Ky village
shops display mahogany furniture, some inlaid with oyster shell and carved in
intricate story designs. The wood is imported from Burma, Cambodia and Laos.
OPENING CEREMONY FOR INTERNATIONAL
SOCIETY OF BLOOD TRANSFUSION Government officials welcomed us to their almost
(in 2010) one thousand year old city. One minister predicted all Vietnamese
will speak and understand English by 2010. They are so industrious I believe
it! After many speeches, we were entertained by two dance troupes: one of 10-12
year old girls; the other adult dancers with flowing dresses and swoopy
banners. Lovely! The typical Vietnamese tunics over long pants show off their
lithe lovely figures and grace. How do the nation's magazines survive when
there is no need for a zillion articles on dieting??? Our Brazilian host,
Silvano Wendel, joined us for a gourmet dinner at the Green Tangerine. A
favorite was mild small peppers stuffed with melting chocolate truffles! The
French-influenced sauces were magnifiques.
TOUR #2 HANOI CITY Confucianism guides conduct. There are
many rules and each person knows his or her place. Men are privileged I
believe. Internet cafes abound. Many families have purchased motorbikes and TV's
in recent years. As in other Asian countries, a huge tax makes at $10,000
automobile cost $30,000. The red in the Vietnamese flag represents the blood
spilled in war. The Star honors 5 categories of people: farmers, soldiers,
teachers, business people and all others. We toured the grounds of The Temple
of Literature. This is a moniker a librarian could love! This first university
was founded in 1070. A large lily pond outside the temple is prettily in bloom
with deep pink flowers. Fancy wooden carvings decorate the ancestral altars.
The Museum of Ethnology, established in 1995 is well designed and informative.
Vietnam is shaped like an 'S'; lots of mountains and miles of beach. Among the
artful displays of customs, tribes, crafts, puppetry, fabric art, I recognized
the Hmong tribes among the many central highland peoples described. Some live
in longhouses. Some are so colorfully, beautifully dressed. A student
approached me when I was touring the typical house style buildings outside. She
asked me to fill out a questionnaire evaluating the museum. Then, just when I
was looking forward to visiting the Communal Hall on stilts, the guide asked
Mike and I to be interviewed by a TV crew who again asked for our opinion of
Vietnam.
TOUR #3 Ninh Minh Bay (south of Hanoi) Along the highway we
saw guava and banana trees plus dirt/dust encrusted vines and plants. Polluted
air is a HUGE problem in Vietnam. Our eyes are red and soar, our throats
scratchy. Many wear facemasks. Vendors sold 8 baguettes for $1 along the highways.
The traffic is so dense and going all directions, it's a wonder no one runs
over these vendors. When asked whether there is any traffic control, the guide
explained 3 infractions on one's license (purchased just once in a lifetime)
means no driving for two years. When we exclaimed that would be a terrible
hardship on the people, he retorted, "Oh no one ever gets 3 infractions
because we bribe the police!" On the other hand, lovely blooming vines
cover thatched roofs to handsome effect! Country houses may have haystacks at
the driveway entrance. This is left over after the harvest and is used as fuel.
When the farmers are not actively caring for their crops, some work in the many
brick factories, which use clay from the riverbanks. 10% of produce from the
farm goes to the government, which owns the land. Each village and neighborhood
has a community hall and a loudspeaker system for announcing births, deaths,
marriages, and diarrhea prevention measures! We were in Hanoi during a cholera
epidemic! I asked how life has changed since independence. Our guide explained
that his father, before 1986, worked all day at a factory and was paid with
some rice and red powder. He was afraid to ask for meat to feed his family.
Each was given the exact amount of rice by the government whether he worked
hard or not.
HOA LU Large Buddhist
temple and grounds in former capitol of Vietnam. Lacquered mahogany gleaming
with gold swirly designs in organic patterns. At the end of the day, a little
food is left on the altars; the rest is distributed to those who work there.
TAM COC (means 3
caves) Mona, another accompanying spouse, joined me in the tour. She's a neat
lady from Quebec City. We boarded a kayak/rowboat with two rowers. The natural
setting was beautiful, limestone mountains, grass and stone buildings,
teahouse. Vendors abound! Each boat had fruit or drinks or souvenir crafts to
sell. It is difficult to avoid the overtures when our rower retrieved souvenir
after souvenir from this small boats recesses. I bought some embroidered
pouches to use for small gifts. The three caves were wonderfully atmospheric.
Low hanging stalagmites almost brushed our hair; dark, gloomy and then a
relief, when we saw light at the other end.
DINNER AT THE DAEWOO HOTEL Oh my gosh. It was so exciting to
be escorted to the outdoor dining near a huge elongated oval pool and stage.
Silver and linen and crystal bedecked the small tables and endless buffet. All
evening singers and dancers entertained us. Craftspeople demonstrated their
calligraphy, ceramics and flower arranging. Just as the Clintons had a while
back, we visited friends and colleagues from all over the world. How the
Vietnamese love Bill Clinton. They credit him with championing their nation
building. I pride myself for reading about the culture ahead of time. How funny
it was to see that the elegant Vietnamese women ate their soup as we do while I
was bringing the bowl to my lips as I had read was authentic! Oh well. The
famous 'pho' rice noodles were delicious. I had mine with chicken, chives, and
mushrooms. Another hit were the fresh coconut prawns- the best I'd ever tasted.
HA LONG BAY A World Heritage Site since 1993 Truly worth the
trip. Expansive water, picturesque mountains, houseboats, foliage, caves;
enchanting mix of gray-green water, bright yellow and red flags, green
mountains, blue sky; dark stained wooden boats, some accommodating overnight
guests and diners. Our boat was medium sized. What is truly memorable was my
climb from the deck up 3 ft. leg lift to another boat then up another 3 ft.
reach the boat behind it then another stretch to finally reach the boat behind
that on the pier! The guide plus Dad plus our friend Gene Walther plus a
Japanese doctor seemed to manage fine. I, frankly, needed some hoists. We sailed
to a little village comprised of houseboats, markets and one school. Got off
the boat at a floating fish market, purchasing yummy huge prawns, odd tasting
clams, and squid. The cooks from our boat prepared these and served them in the
dining room on the lower level of our boat. White Vietnamese wine was perfect
with the fish, greens, Japanese pears, bananas.
DINNER FIASCO We decided to splurge on our last night in
Hanoi by joining two gourmands (one from Luxembourg, one from Germany) at the
tony Cafe de Paris. Got the address from the concierge. Took a cab. Needed to
walk 2 blocks because it was pedestrian only. We reached the proper address
only to be staring at a humble, neighborhood cafe with another name! The owner
assured us this was Cafe de Paris in another life. She was welcoming and
gracious. We were bewildered and wondering why: It seemed less snazzy than we
expected given our friend's description, and it seemed odd they had not beaten
us there. We didn't have their cell numbers. Oh my! Not wanting to offend our
hostess, we decided to order fried chicken and sticky rice. We merely stared at
the two tumblers of poured water. Mike had a beer. I actually loved the sticky
rice balls. We both said grace praying that we wouldn't get sick from the meal.
The next morning over breakfast buffet, we talked with our German friend
Erhard. They had indeed gone to another Cafe de Paris and had waited for us! Oh
well, this is the grist from which we obtain our stories? After all, we did
live happily ever after....................... We ate well the whole week and
didn't gain a pound.
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