Spain 2007

Spain 6/07 Mike & Sunny, Sep 3, 2007

            What a beginning! Lost my passport between boarding the plane and my seat. After 10 panicky minutes and lots of pacing back and forth, I spotted it in beween the window seat and the window! I must credit the Air France attendant for reassuring me they would let me land in Paris. Thank goodness I didn't need to discover what would follow if I had no passport to travel to Spain. This is a new service from Seattle to Paris direct.Then a plane to Madrid. Dad made a friend of the cab driver who took us to Hotel Abascal as they talked soccer. Hotel under renovation, of course! We settled in, then took the Metro to Plaza del Sol then Plaza Espana. I was so glad that Madrid was still resplendent with working, grandiose fountains.Seems as if every turned corner reveals another magnificent fountain! I had remembered these from my college visit in 1964. Had tapas of Iberian hams (3 kinds), and cheeses (2 kinds). Yummy gluteny bread, sangria and outstanding, fresh,grilled asparagus brushed with olive oil and garlic. There was a soccer match for Real Madrid that first night. Fans of all ages dressed in colors of their team: scarves, shirts, goofy hats, face painting, pompoms and a marvelous enthusiasm. Then on the Metro, I heard someone say, "Signora" and point to my OPEN pocket on my backpack. Someone had taken my coin purse out of it. My most important stuff was in a money belt, but I still resent losing some Euros. The next day we took a train to scenic, medieval Toledo. Blue skies, humid heat. The beautiful mosaics in the old Jewish synogogue were a highlight. The town is so well preserved. Mostly it's great just being there and thinking about life long ago. Saw El Greco works, but prefer Velasquez. Lunch in Toledo at a non-touristy restaurant, "Cason de los Lopez de Toledo" It is tucked away and quiet. A grilled ham, cheese, and chicken sandwich was yummy. We had more fun than the two women at the next table. You see, I was served THEIR sandwiches. I thought it was an hors d'oeurve, so ate it. They had to wait a very long time for the staff to make another sandwich! What Ugly American? Back to Madrid. I took a city tour. When the guide overheard me saying that I missed the elegantly clad women I saw in 1964, she retorted, "Yes, they were dressed in elegant suits, but, under Franco, they had no freedom!!! We are now modern! We are like everyone else in the world!" Gran Via is full of elegant stone buildings and shops. On the tour we saw Egypt's gift thanking the Spaniards for their help. The appreciative Madrilenos put these Egyptian temple structures in a park overlooking the city. The entrance is marked by a dramatic sculpture honoring the war dead. Phillip V's Royal Palace, built in 1754, is now used for ceremonial purposes. Juan Carlos and Sofia are the present monarchs. One night we ate dinner at the Oriental Cafe in the piazza facing the 2200 room palace. As usual for our trips, I tried to retrace some of my most interesting touring for Mike once he was out of his meetings. Madrid's Reine Sofia contemporary art museum is awesome. It is a spacious showcase for several rooms of Miro, Picasso, and other Spanish artists. Paintings and sculptures with lavish, helpful space in between, enhances the appreciation.Bravo! A humongous buffet breakfast is charged to us whether we eat or not, so we had our cereal, then tasted some new things. Had a pudding/milk/maple syrup thing one day. Rich and tasty. Yes, managed some chocolate for breakfast as well. Roche hosted a magical evening at Palacio del Negralejo, 25 miles from Madrid. On this 'ranch' we sampled food from the four main regions of Spain! We were thoroughly enjoying roast suckling pig, red pepper stuffed with crabmeat, Catalan creme brulee when......the roof opened up to the night sky making the dance floor al fresco romantic! We danced to a rock band. The surrounding garden was lovely for visiting. This ranch belonged to the same family for centuries. Little did I know that Iwould visit still another grand home the next evening! Olive orchards surround Castillo de Vinuelos. The family home (17c.) is decorated with murals (not much to my taste). When we arrived, a Dutch doctor invited Mike to consider being the next president of the International Society of Blood Transfusion. Not a practical proposition, but very nice recognition of Mike's networking prowess! There were several food stations (much to my taste!): custard/veggie combos in parfait glasses, huge shrimp, BBQ fish and meat, yummy Riojas reserva wine, sherry(too strong), gazpacho, paella, stews, ice cream! There were two bands, magicians, dancers and a contest to drink from a boda bag for 20 seconds. Mostly it was thrilling to talk with people from all over the world who were in town for the scientific conference. I will miss this international mingling when Mike truly retires. Earlier that day I had toured another impressive museum in Madrid - the Thyssen-Bornemizma. Here I saw some early work of Braque, Gauguin, and O'Keeffe that I prefer to their more famous offerings. Loved O'Keeffe's "Moon Over New York". After the museum I found the famous old Commerical Cafe, one of the cafe society hangouts. Relying on my knowledge (guesses) of Italian, I confidently ordered some hot chocolate from the menu. Imagine my surprise when the waiter delivered a huge dripping hot fudge sundae! Carpe diem!! I laughed out loud at my delicious mistake. We got a nice lazy start, which helped offset the 10pm dinner hour of Spain. Mike and I went to the Prado.We saw works by Spanish masters displayed in such a grand building. I actually kept a clear memory of this famous museum from my first intro in 1964. Good-bye to the helpful hotel staff and to Madrid where I saw only 3 people smile in 5 days touring! Next stop= Barcelona! It was fun to stroll along the harbor road and up the famous Rambla Avenue past flower stalls and street performers. The Argentinian tango dancers (2 males) were amazing! Mimes covered with stucco-like silver paint would come into character when they received a coin of encouragement; very professional acting and costumes. We ate paella at the "7 Doors" restaurant- in business for 170yrs! Their protiferoles and wine list were superb. We are so lucky to have these opportunities. The next day we took a city tour. The architect, Gaudi, is worshipped here. Zany playful toweres create a rooftop sculpture garden right across from our room in the .....yes.....Hotel Gaudi. We toured the Olympic grounds. The "Poble Espanol" has neighborhoods representative of the regions of Spain. Saw the huge Olympic pool on the side of Montjuic . 98% of this mountain is covered with plants. It was beautiful this time of the year. North Barcelona shows French influences: elegant statues, fountains, French style buildings plus a beach-town insouciance=lovely place! We had rabbit (sorry kids!), potatoes and tomato aioli tapas for lunch. At the old gothic section of town we 'met' Dad's ancestor, Ramon III Berenger riding his horse in the piazza. Inside the catherdral Ramon, is honored for establishing this grand church. We did learn that one brother killed the other! Never know where genealogical snooping will take us! Another clear memory (something to celebrate these days) was of Christopher Columbus perched on a tall column overlooking the sea. He's still there. He mistakenly points to the Mediterranean rather than the ocean. Barcelona has a wonderful market. I was excited to see yummy Dragon fruit, first experienced in Singapore many years ago. At Cordobes, La Rambla 35 there are many things to like: huge buffet dinner, unlimited sangria, and passionate flamenco- Ole! Especially interesting were the roles played by the male chanters and guitarists. they cajoled the dancers and cheered them on. Fascinating. Wonderful use of the cascade of ruffles on the costumes. GAUDI'S SEGRADA FAMILIA TEMPLE An awesome church being built soley through donations and therefore in progress since 1890! Estimated completion is 2032. Now it is quite unsettling to contemplate our probable inability to see the completed cathedral. It will be gorgeous. The organic interior design contrasts with the gothic and modernist exterior. Scenes of the Nativity, Resurrection, etc. are set into cavelike niches on the outside facade. 18 towers will soar to the sky. There are 4 now. inside treelike stone pillars culminate in stained glass medallions in the ceiling. The interior is already gorgeous though incomplete. Gaudi dedicated his life to this project. He had no family of his own. He lived in a little house on the property during the last year of his life.

FUNDACIO MAEGHT BARCELONA is reminiscent of its sister museum near St. Paul de Vance, France. In other words, lovely sculptures in the outside garden, hundreds of paintings donated by Miro & family. The addition of very well-presented biographical facts, drawings, photos. Forced myself to buy a silver leather coin purse with the museum's name tastefully embossed on it. (Remember the theft?) Also bought a sculptural wire and metal and bead necklace. Our last night, we strolled the beach near the Hotel Arts, built to house Olympic dignitaries. It's so exclusive; they exclude all but registered guests! I wanted to snoop inside, so was disappointed. A friend from Barcelona recommended Agua restaurant right on the beach. The fresh seared tuna with diced tomato and guacamole sauce with garlic. MMMMMMM. On to Roma!