Paris 10/2003

Paris!                            October 2003

Mike was invited to speak at a Blood Bankers meeting here.

We arrived at the ill-advised hour of 7am, left our baggage at the Sofitel Hotel at Bercy, and then bravely set out walking to town along the Seine River. We were so tired. It was so cold. Still, the magic that is Paris was a lovely distraction! Before we left, it crossed my mind that maybe the 4^th trip here would not seem so marvelous. No problem. I’d return anytime.

Paris is so deeply GORGEOUS. She makes our buildings seem sterile. The old Regency style buildings have such character and age so well. So do the French women. I was swept away by the grandeur of these old buildings and the style of the French people.

The Cluny Museum covers early French history. More and more, I approach museum displays and art with a curiosity for knowing who and why and how these people lived. Such beautiful things they made! We climbed down to the dungeon-like basement where once Roman bathers soothed their bodies and spirits while socializing and politicking. Having seen Pompeii and Athens recently, I can better fill in the missing buildings when seeing ancient ruins.

Very, very jet-lagged; we stumbled through the Left Bank, over to Isle Saint Louis. I love the elegance of this Parisian neighborhood. Cozy shops and cafes line Rue St. Louis. The cup of warm milk complete with a piece of dark chocolate was the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had. The day was cold and rainy, so comfort was needed. We had crepes for lunch.

We returned to the hotel, only to wait in the lobby because the computer was down. This was difficult. I kept reminding myself that I’d feel better in a day or two. Sleep deprivation = pessimism in my book.

We ate dinner at Chai 33, a toney, cozy restaurant in the Village Bercy near our hotel. It’s a wine cellar. We liked the flavor of our wine. Noticed its California label- Copper Ridge Zinfandel!

In addition to our first visit to the Cluny museum, we saw several things we hadn’t seen  on earlier trips.

Musee D’Orsay is magnificent! Housed in a restored train station and chock full of Impressionist and other works of this era beautifully displayed for maximum enjoyment.

On to stroll with the cute guy in freckles down the Champs Elysee and through the Place de la Concorde.

The George Pompidou Center was my adventure during Mike’s meeting. The vistas from the   top are stunning, the sculpture courts impressive. There was a Jean Cocteau exhibit, which I skipped. I find him too dark. The night before, I had a terrifying dream- something I (gratefully) haven’t experienced for years. Feeling a bit fragile, I delighted in people watching and art instead.

Lunched on the Isle St.Louis thanks to a French schoolteacher who guided me there. Not before he used me as an English tutorial by asking me to say something to his class. Had a very congenial exchange right in the midst of tension between France and USA since France refused to support the Iraqi War.

Sampled Berthillon ice cream- to die for! Thanks to Rita Foulkes, I had tasted chocolates named ‘Gian Ju’. When I saw this flavor (or fragrance as the French put it), I leaped to order it. Oh, yes, I felt obligated to order lunch first, so I asked for what I thought was a light orange, avocado and olive salad. Suddenly, the waiter was serving me a humongous salad stacked with layers of prosciutto and cubes of cheese. I said “Quel supris!” I pointed to the menu item I meant to order. “On peut changer?” I asked, hopefully. He smiled and agreed. Mike and I agreed either the French are kindler gentler now or our gray hair earns us immunity from crisp service.

In my happy mode, I shopped and added to their economy-selfless soul that I am.

Sainte Chapelle-

A lovely chapel lit from within by light streaming through blue and red and gold in the tall, tall exquisite stained glass windows. I say King Louis was a fool to attend Mass staying in his private chamber and peering through an opening in a wall so he could avoid contact with his subjects!

It was funny- trompe d’oeil? We entered on the ground floor after a long wait in a queue outside in beastly weather, jostling with school children and other tourists. Took ages. We finally entered the chapel and were in a simple, bare chapel. We were bewildered-everyone   said this was a must-see??? Then, we noticed a stairway upstairs to the lovely chapel. Phew!

Dinner Cruise on the Seine-

Ooh la la indeed. We had the best table right at the front of the boat. Seeing the stately buildings and monuments lit up is so impressive- romantic, too.

This is a must-see. Can’t believe I’ve shunned it as too touristy in the past. We sailed and dined and danced during our two-hour trip.

The Louvre-

We followed our Rick Steve Paris guide to sample this huge museum our third tour of the Louvre.We waved at Mona Lisa and the Venus di Milo. We walked up and down the Grand Gallery, really fascinated by the artists copying the masters.

Afterwards we ate Croque Monsieur and Croque Madame sandwiches al fresco at the nearby Café Nemour.

Cathedral at St. Denis- Searching for Dead Guys = the Capetian Kings and Queens

Most of the kings of France are buried here. Even Marie Antoinette lies in her stone sarcophagus. Dad and I searched for relatives after dashing to the back entrance quite near closing.

St. Denis is in the northernmost section of Paris= long metro trip with three changes in direction. It was worth the trip-austere, dignified burial for all.

My mind goes into a spin when it’s full of many dates and names of such similarity. I like Louis the Fat (Louis le Gros). There’s a mnemonic for you!

Chez Francis-across from the Eiffel Tower

We watched Parisian lights and traffic secure at our table in this glassed-in restaurant. Each hour on the hour, the Eiffel tower is full of tiny flashing lights-resplendent. The food was fine. I’ve been spoiled by Claudie’s fab cooking. She’s my favorite French chef! Her ratatouille sets a new high standard.

Picasso Museum-

Another first for us. We thought back on our two visits to his museum in Antibes. We’ve seen many Picasso exhibitions all over the world.

Still, this museum dazzled me. My eye embraces his sculpture rather than his paintings. I do like the work “Friendship” where he portrays a hand holding a bouquet.

Notre Dame and Crypts-

We searched for Dad’s relative- Queen Isabel de Hainault (1170-1190) to no avail. We had information that she was buried at Notre Dame. We toured the Egyptian Crypt across from Notre Dame Cathedral. Here is preserved the space under Notre Dame. Ancient stones, stairs, walls-well worth a look and pleasantly creepy.

Café Panis-

This may shock you, but once in a while I whine while Dad surfs the Internet and does his e-mail. Not this time. I settled into the Left Bank’s trendy, historic Café Panis and delighted in my rainy afternoon. Dad returned in time to share a chocolate ice cream sundae made of the rich Berthillon ice cream. We both wonder how the French stay so slim?

Au Revoir and A Bientot!