Friday, October 10, 2014

Geneva, Sicily Rome 2014


Geneva, Sicily, Rome


Geneva

Geneva sits in a stunningly beautiful landscape, but is showing some wear. I finally understand why Rick Steves recommends other tastes of Switzerland.

I join him in preferring Zurich and Basel. They retain the Swiss vibe now diluted by tourism and immigration in Geneva. Take the bright red Glacier Express train to Schatzalp and you are in the Heidi land of my childhood dreams!

What fun to be a ‘groupie’ when Mike and his Dutch colleague, Cess performed a guitar duet and crooned in honor of Luc Noel’s retirement from the World Health Organization. The scientific meeting participants expressed surprise and delight. Luc’s successor at WHO dubbed them The MPHO Band in reference to the group project identifying Medical Products of Human Origin (see the link in the comment at the end). A huge benefit of a research career is becoming friends with people from all over the world.

Two of these, our Swiss friends Guy and Rosemarie, met us for an outdoor lunch. Afterwards we walked to the Rath Museum where we studied many works of Gustave Courbet. It is amazing how these 19c. artists managed to travel from country to country. My favorite piece was a mountain vividly, starkly white.

While Mike was in meetings, I took a city bus to France! It was a thrill to just walk right past the customs booth to Saleve where I took the funicular up to the mountain paths. Pretty steep hike rewarded by a beautiful valley view. My limited French ability helped me communicate with people in this rural area. Thank-you, French teachers!

Back in Geneva I escaped the hustle bustle of the streets by ducking behind the imposing Brunswick Memorial into The Cottage Café. I enjoyed the view of the Jet d’eau fountain on Lake Geneva while eating a beautifully presented and delicious lunch. The fountain resulted from a surprise leak and has become iconic.

I highly recommend taking a day boat trip to the lovely village of D’Ivoire on Lake Geneva.

Sicily

We responded grumpily to our 3:30 am wakeup call, caught the plane to Catania, and then looked for Del and Eva, our American travel buddies who were to meet our plane. Oops! Where were they? We paced and peered. We endured the unhelpful “help” desk attendant who offered no sympathy and little advice. I don’t think she loved her job in the stuffy kiosk. We called the hotel where they were staying the night before. They had checked out. Where were they now? Texting and cell calls were not an option. We decided Mike would continue looking in the airport and I would look for them at the nearby car rental. It was hot.
I was sleepy. I was also in the wrong building. An hour later, we four found each other. Our friends thought we were arriving at nine rather than at eight. I noticed my usually too skinny feet were plump blimps from the heatL.

DonnaCarmela  <www.donnacarmela.com> sounded like a nice play to lunch. We drove to Riposto. We drove in Riposto. We zigzagged and repeated ourselves. Finally asked a local for directions. He left his shop to walk us to our first turn out of town, and then drew a detailed map of every turn en route. Molto gentile! In a lovely rural setting, there was a sign and an expansive, forbidding eight-foot stucco wall with a clearly locked gate. I pushed the buzzer, and the Signora accepted our plea for lunch. The place is magical! Located in Europe’s largest nursery, it looked like an oasis to us. Manicured lawns, old trees, yellow and purple flower-lined driveways and paths. White ball lights and the perquisite length of white chiffon draping from above. We asked if there were any rooms left for the night? Only one, lucky us. A mini villa surrounded by rows of plants, an herb garden, wishing well, and decorative pond, charming stone covered porch, and a Jacuzzi. Eva wanted to go for a swim after dinner, but we hadn’t packed swimming suits. We improvised, using the laundress’ privilege of borrowing our husbands’ briefs! Lots of giggling that night.

After sipping blood orange juice, almond milk, and delicious pastries, we were on the road again.

En route to Syracuse, we had a clear view of Mt. Etna. Our waiter at DonnaCarmela grew up in Etna’s shadow. He said, “She is ours. We understand the rhythms of her eruptions and destruction. “ Black volcanic boulders line the roads.

Villa Carlotta www.hotelvillacarlottataormina.com in Messina Taormina extended our “life in villas” indulgence. The food was wonderful! I smiled when I saw 4 pairs of reading glasses next to the silverware on the buffet table. They really do think of everything.

The impressive stone buildings and statues of the Piazza del Duomo in Syracuse provide an elegant backdrop to a notable’s wedding reception. There were lots of black limos releasing well-dressed guests into the hot sun as they waited for the bride and groom. We joined the many gawkers and were rewarded by the clippety-clop of a horse and carriage crossing the piazza to the city hall reception. We lunched on the piazza at an outdoor people-watching table. I loved the 6 cheese, 6 sauce (wine, honey, marmalade, pear, tomato, almonds) appetizer.

We strolled along the water that evening, approached a crowd of 20-somethings singing. One young man strummed the guitar and gazed up to his beloved on the balcony. We guessed this was a wedding proposal?

As we approached Agrigento, we saw beautiful preserved temples of Juno and Dionysius perched upon the hill above. Wow! Later, we saw them lit up at night. The archeological museum is well designed. They left lots of viewing space and good lighting to see artifacts from 200 BC -600 AD. Archeologists found dishes, jars and amphoras in cemeteries and cisterns where they had been dumped. That night we danced a bit under the stars to the music of Jobin.

On the road again, we stopped at a grocery store to seek directions. The town was so tiny, how could we have missed the Michelin-praised  restaurant, Monteallegro? The grocer jumped into his car and led us there. What hospitality! We were served scrumptious wild rice balls with melted cheese inside. (Arancini di riso)

In summary, with the Michelin guide as our bible, we ate fine lunches and dinners during our two weeks in Italy. We topped them off with frequent stops at local gelaterias. Common to most menus: pistachios, seafood, almonds, marsala, olives, and fresh ricotta. Something new to me- gelato in a large soft bun!

Selanunte

Home to a Satyr museum dedicated to the finding of one of the oldest Greek statues found in Sicilian waters. It was retrieved in 1997. The bronze statue depicts a long, curly-haired youth with a faraway expression.

We stayed at Il Vigneto Villa among the vineyards. So peaceful there. Just outside our room we could hear the distinctive rustling of the palms bordering our private terrace.

Erice

This Medieval hill town is worth a stroll. So is Monreale, although we reached the town just as the famous cathedral shut its doors! The winding mountain road is gorgeous with views of the irregular coastline and its impressive rock formations. We spotted the Trapani salt harvesting from our bird’s eye view.

Isola Femmine greeted us with gently rolling turquoise waves and a seaside restaurant. Sipping the wine that had been given to us by a previous hotel employee (right after he urged us to praise them on Trip Advisor), we experienced calm before the proverbial storm. The raw fish I had for dinner were- well- squiggly! When we drove along the beach on our way out of town, the water reached 2/3 of the passenger windows. We saw parked cars submerged. An amazing amount of rainfall in a short period of time.

Onto Palermo where we pass the Mafia gathering place in the Palm Hotel. The first night it was hard to relax into the old world ambiance of our Grand Palace Hotel. You see, our phone played a cuckoo-like melody all night long. It was bizarre! They fixed it the next day, but without explanation of cause. At breakfast, I sawed away in an attempt to obtain a slice of smoked salmon. A fellow guest took pity on me, explaining how to use the fish knife to shave off delicate pieces of salmon. Another reminder that I am certainly a work in progress! The rooftop restaurant has a view of the Moorish/Baroque Cathedral. Inside we learned of Blessed Don Giuseppe Puglisi, a priest martyred for his criticism of the Mafia influence in his childhood neighborhood.

I spotted a lovely eggshell white handmade blouse in the window of a shop closed for the siesta. I returned to try it on in the upstairs gallery of the shop. The white embroidery, delicate lacework and silk lining made me feel like a princess. The fact it was too small around the waist made me feel like Cinderella’s stepsister, Dricella.

Rome

What fun to have our son, Mike and his wife, DeeDee meet us here. We shared dinners at our apartment in Trastevere. (felt like expats). One night we needed a lemon, but the nearby stores were closed. I stopped at our local bar and asked to buy the lemon I saw there. The Signor pointed out that it was to make drinks for customers, not for sale. The Signora, gestured for me to come over to the cash register where she whispered, “One Euro” and handed me the lemon.

”Each day we ate breakfast at the apartment then set out to do one worthy thing before lunch. We all knew that after our after-lunch gelato we would want a nap. There are some spots we must see every visit to the Eternal City: The Roman Forum, The Trevi Fountain, The Coliseum, the Tiber, and The Victor Emmanuel Monument. Also these eateries: Orso 80 for brunch, The Romolo Ristorante with the lovely garden,  where Raphael’s mistress lived, and Il Giardino or Nonna Betta’s in the Jewish Quarter. My favorite worthy trek was to The Escher exhibition. It was fabulous. His works exude so much whimsy and imagination.
Eva, who is a Master Gardener, led me once more through the Rome Botanical Gardens. I love the soft green of the bamboo forest there.

While we were waiting to meet our Roman friends Franco and Daniela, I ducked into The Church of the Sacred Heart in Piazza Navona. Lucky me! A boy’s choir was sending heavenly clear notes to heaven during the Mass. The acoustics were impressive.

Spending 2 weeks in Italy allowed me to remember vocabulary words. Being 71 helped me relax and speak Italian like I meant it! I was understood though full of grammatical errors. It was a joy.

Our quest for Rome’s best gelato? Giolitti’s was our Roman friends’ favorite and ours, too. Close runners-up were GROM and Gelateria Fatamorgana. New flavors like sage and whiskey join the traditional nocciola and limone. I loved my milk chocolate and prune gelato.

Trastevere is my favorite section of Rome. I bought a soft, fabric necklace from my favorite shop, Claudio Angeloni. It’s small and enticing. The owner told me she loved the friendliness of the Seattle suppliers. I tried on a bright hand-woven coat from one of these.

Since I lived in Florence in 1963-64 it will always be my “Fiore nel Giardino d’Italia. However, Rome is uniquely romantic. Mike and I danced in Maria di Trastevere Piazza to a live band. We will certainly return, for I tossed a coin into the under-renovation Trevi Fountain.

Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Spain, Switzerland and Scotland 11/2008

Spain, Switzerland and Scotland - Sunny , Nov 18, 2008
Journal November 5-18, 2008   Newark-Madrid-Geneva-Edinburgh

Responding groggily to our 2:30 am alarm, we set out for the Seattle airport. Boarded our on-time flight to Newark en route to Madrid. Wait a minute, the plane lands in Chicago. We need to change planes. Yes, it’s a rush to another terminal. We fly to Newark after waiting almost 2 hours for a landing clearance due to heavy rains. We dash from the plane to catch our international flight. Hope trumps reason. We COULD make the flight IF it’s delayed. No such luck. No other planes to Spain that night.
No reimbursement for hotel not meals. No chance for Mike to lead the Nov.7th morning meeting in Madrid. (THE reason we changed our tickets and itinerary to go to Madrid en route to Edinburgh). Sorry for the self-absorption, but no chance for me to be taken to a lovely restaurant in Madrid as a guest of a presenter! Bummer.

I start my journal on a day of hours spent in the Newark Airport with breaks for prayer that our evening flight happens and we awake in Lisbon in time to catch our flight to Madrid in time for Mike to make one part of the 9-1:30pm meeting!

MADRID

Hotel Rave: The Hesperia

We hang out at the airport all day and do make the evening flight to Madrid. Lovely service in business class, but one addition I did not appreciate. I awoke with a major bruise on my left eye. How did this happen? Did someone poke me with a sharp object while I slept? I have no clue. It doesn’t hurt. It isn’t pretty. Souvenir. We meet our driver upon arrival and are zoomed to Hotel Hesperia on a main boulevard in downtown Madrid. Mike, with little sleep, walks into the conference room and facilitates a discussion of European service needs as they apply to Roche Pharmaceuticals.

I pretend I’m awake and walk to the Prado Museum to see the Rembrandt exhibit. Three different staff people warn me that a cab or bus would be advisable. I choose to stroll 35minutes down the lovely Avenue Castanada, with its splendid fountains and sculptures. These working fountains enchanted me when I first visited Madrid in 1964. We are so fond of Barcelona, that it overshadows this early delight, but I still admire this sophisticated old city with its’ patrician airs. My walk was fun even though my constant companion was secondhand smoke from each doorway en route. There are more smokers here than in the states, especially women.
The 40 Rembrandt works were displayed alongside some by Rubens and other painters who influenced Rembrandt. Each time you see a fine artwork, you appreciate it more. Never overly fond of the dark Dutch paintings with their jarring shots of light, I could admire the subtleties thanks to an excellent narration on my recorder. Seeing Christ in the shadows as Peter betrays him, noticing the angst on St. Stephen’s face as he was stoned to death, etc. Rembrandt’s self-portraits and the portrait of St. Bartholomew were my favorites.

I walked back to the hotel full of jet lag and ready to have a light dinner and then to crash! Unwisely, I love duck pate’. This elegant small hotel has fabulous food. Thinly sliced duck with mango sauce on rye toast=heaven. Throw in a glass of Spanish Roja wine and I forgot my weariness for a moment. We slept fine and headed back to the airport for our flight to Geneva after a scrumptious huge breakfast buffet. Guy and Rosemarie Bonnard, friends since the 1970’s in DC., met us there. We drove around Geneva and had lunch at La Perle du Lac at our request. We remember this tiny place on Lac Leman. We drove along the lake admiring the parks, sculpture, mansions, and charm of it all. Rosemarie was surprised that my favorite place is Geneva.   She is fonder of Lausanne which, to her, is less formal and pretentious. She was not surprised that my second favorite is Bali. The latter is her #1.

LAUSANNE

Speaking of dreams come true, their home on Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) seems idyllic to me. It belonged to Guy’s grandfather. There is a large side yard and small swimming dock. Rosemarie’s gardening prowess is evident everywhere including flowering plants inside. Large trees, irregular coastline, lapping water, surrounding Alps- Wow! The dining/living room is washed with sunlight; the gorgeous floral stained glass window adorns the staircase. They restored everything they could from the 1903 home. We slept on the third floor. Their children: Karine, Leslie, and Vincent are grown and living in Switzerland. Each week Rosemarie takes the train to Berne where she works and sleeps in an atelier shared with 6 other artists. She has a show the end of this month. Her paintings add beauty and uniqueness to her home.
She loves to swim right off a little stone step into the lake. Amazing.

There is a path along the lake which we followed, passing a new community center, parks, and lake properties. The autumn leaves were colorful. We ate dinner at a nearby polytechnic college. A fancy restaurant housed in the same building as the student cafeteria, it specializes in game. We ate medallions of: deer, stag, and mountain goat. The deer was so tasty and tender; we wondered whether it was farmed, not wild. It was a heavy meal including a smoked meat salad and spaezle. Thoroughly fed, we slept well and late. Our first sight was a breakfast table with golden braided egg loaf, homemade jam, Swiss bacon, and mandarin oranges. We shared pictures of family and recent trips. At our request, they showed us photos of the September wedding of their son, Vincent. He was married in an old stone church nearby. Guests could walk to Bonnard’s home for a garden reception. Then, they had a dinner in a huge old hotel.

After breakfast, I toured Rosemarie’s ‘studio’ room. Wish I had taken a picture of it. Artistic people’s digs are intriguing. She saves plant pods, found objects, created objects, in process objects, etc. She is preparing a book chronicling her feelings about maternity.

We set out in the light rain to tour the golden vineyards of Valle. This is now a UNESCO Heritage Site as the vines are hundreds of years old and so picturesque terraced on steep hills culminating in Lake Geneva and surrounded by snow-capped mountains. People are allowed to walk among the vines once the grapes are harvested. Some grapes remained along the border, perhaps to make ice wine, Guy speculated. This area is his childhood home. Rosemarie grew up in Zurich.

We walked along the lake to a bakery named ‘Vincent’s’ where we bought sandwiches to eat by the lake and pastries to enjoy with coffee when we returned to their home to pack. Our lovely visit culminated at the nearby train station where they said   “Au Revoir” and we set off for the Geneva Airport. We stayed the night at a very new, VERY stylish Hilton decorated in black and Plexiglass. The transparent Plexiglas sink and counter were elegant and impractical. A narrow counter sent everything sliding into the sink!

Just now we will approach our gate in hopes of a smooth journey from Madrid to Zurich and on to Edinburgh, a fine walk-around city we visited in 2000.

SCOTLAND

Here is a beautiful country about the size of our Washington State and with just a few more people. This reminded me that we too are sparsely populated when we look at it this way. Scotland has 2/3 of the landmass of England, but 1/10th of the people. Astounding splashes of deep, deep green distinguish Scotland and attest to its rainy weather.


EDINBURGH
Restaurant raves: Home Bistro, Wedgewood, and Vittoria!

We’re staying at Ten Hill Place,   an inn used by visitors to the Royal College of Surgeons nearby. It is very pleasant here. Our room has a view of King Arthur’s seat atop the mountain. We climbed there last trip, so are content to savor the memory. After a good night’s sleep, we walked much of Edinburgh on our first day. Past Edinburgh Castle with Mike’s ancestor, Queen Margare’s chapel atop. Autumn leaves brightened the landscape along Water Leith near the 12th c. Dean Village. I love the old stone buildings –  so much character. Dean Village was a grain mill town. Some of the old millstones remain. After following a narrow path along the water, we found a lunch spot then continued our trek. This included another look at the beautifully decorateds Scottish National Portrait Gallery. Mike’s ancestors are nicely portrayed on a mural surrounding the wooden balcony. A print of the mural is available as a poster. What we really hope to find are reprints of the family portraits at Holyrood. (later found some on Google Image!)

We continued on to Princes Street where the ultra-friendly Scottish Archives staff welcomed us to a ‘tasters’ session. This is a fun way to market their services. None of the stuffiness and complicated rules of our national archive staff! At the end of both two-hour tasters, they give a lecture highlighting resources.   We sat for a while and searched for John Tillery. Later that week I searched for the various forms of O’Melveny on the slim chance that the reason the Irish don’t recognize our name is that it is Scotch-Irish. No Maolfhiona, Maolfiona, Melvena, O’Melvena, nor O’Melveney to be found. Looked for another ancestor, Susan McKee, but couldn’t find one with proper dates. Hope to get to Ulster one day where O’Melveny history may be found. Plus would like to go further north in western Ireland in County Mayo and claim that castle near Mollina mentioned in William O’Melveny’s history!

The Royal Museum of Scotland was next. We checked the history books in the museum shop. No portraits of these early kings and queens. I was impressed by the helpfulness of all whom we consulted during the day, with special thanks to the shoe repair shop man who took time to recommend some sites. He loves the Royal Museum and advised that, once we entered this newly restored museum, we may choose never to leave.

Museums just keep getting better and better. They displayed gorgeous ancient jewelry on the wrists and necks of robot looking mannequins. Families gather in the Discovery Zones on each floor to visit the exhibit-related interactive stations. Not much in the museum on the early kings and queens. Lots of attention to Mary Queen of Scots and later royalty. Two exhibits were especially engaging and fresh: One was a panoramic sized screen showing early settlements, then morphing to show the next group of inhabitants, their housing, etc. The other was a video interviewing 20-30 Scots asking them what they liked and didn’t like about being a Scot, what makes them unique, how they feel about Edinburgh, etc. Fascinating kaleidoscope.

There was a speakers’ dinner served in the wood paneled library of the Royal Surgeons College. Portraits of notable surgeons lined the hallways. The Harry Potter books and films change us. I now contemplate conversing with these staid looking notables! I enjoyed talking with people from Brazil, UK, Slovakia, and the USA. Yes, people are very hopeful of better relations with the USA now that we have a new administration. We had a lovely stew, potatoes and ratatouille. Perfect for a coolish windy night.

On to the Malt Shovel, a pub with live jazz at 9pm. Although I prefer talk radio to music stations, I love the holistic experience of live performance. Hope to visit more pubs during our stay. How fabulous that they are (since 2006) SMOKE FREE!

Yesterday I stopped at the Scottish Storytelling Centre where I learned there was a monthly gathering that very night! Out goes the scientific meeting’s reception in Edinburgh Castle. I joined the group for stories from 7-9pm. The theme was “Stars and the Moon “  so I told “The Song of the Stars”, an Algonquin poem with native sign language. Michael Krewes? was the host and told 4 stories very skillfully. Others did traditional songs and stories and one told an original story. There is instant camaraderie among storytellers and story lovers. That, plus they make their hot chocolate with chocolate chips- yum.

The center shares space with the John Knox museum. He stayed in this home of Mary of Scots’ goldsmith to be near St. Giles Church where he was the pastor. We peeked into St. Giles one evening, just before the 6pm service. After hearing the booming organ and seeing at least 100 choir members walk past us, we decided to stay for some of the service. Their excellent voices soared to fill the church with sound. Glorious! However, when we decided to leave quietly, we were mistaken. A church official needed to unlock the door so we could exit. Blush!   The exhibits in Knox’s home effectively told of the antagonism between Queen Mary and John Knox-both sincere religious leaders. It was very interesting for this Catholic to see Knox’s good points. He had reason to question the infallibility of the popes of that time. I hadn’t really thought about that and also that superstition was alive and well. I had always dismissed this criticism of Catholics worshipping statues. Museums today embrace technology and we are the beneficiaries. I am happy for today’s children that they can approach the facts using a variety of media. We heard the roar of the protesting crowds and actors reading quotes from Knox’s sermons.

Edinburgh is a wonderful town for bookstores. We walked right past Harry Potter’s Blackwell bookstore each day as it’s near our hotel. We also saw the pub where Rowling wrote two of the books. (Elephant …) At night it is a wonderful place for those who like spookiness. No wonder their terror tours are so popular. Complete with mist, fog, rain, wind, an underground town and narrow closes. (outside corridors)

We walked along George Street where there are fine shops. I did a little Christmas shopping, then stopped at Jenners coffee shop on the 5th floor. I had asked a shopkeeper where to find the best scones in that neighborhood.
I’ve seen traditional currant, plain scones, and treacle scones. Haven’t opted for the latter as my taste of treacle in London was so very sweet. My favorite so far is the currant and cherry scone.

On my walks in the newer section of town, I hear some fierce battles of the car horns. A truck stopped to unload, blocking traffic. The truck driver was so annoyed by the 5 minutes of non-stop honking at him, that he got back into his cab and used his horn to beep a rhythm of sound right back before he moved on and eased the congestion.

The purpose of our trip is for Mike to present at the European Association of Tissue Banks. The British Tissue Bank Association is a co-host.
Each of our evening receptions is in a different historic building. Last night we listened to a Scottish choir sing “Amazing Grace”, “Auld Lang Syne” and many others. The Merchants’ Hall has a gorgeous painted ceiling with delicate plaster flowers in intricate patterns. They sang in madrigal style. It reminded me of Teresa and Brendans’s participation in Madrigal evenings in Spokane. There was a whiskey tasting, but we both refrained. It was great chatting with friends from Australia, Germany, Ireland, etc.

Edinburgh is a hilly town. I decided not to take my running shoes (called ‘trainers’ here). No problem. I’ve done miles and miles of walking. I love to investigate the narrow passageways, alleys, and winding paths.   It’s nice to take a break from my usual exercise regimen.

Now that we’ve made no-cancel reservations for a bus tour of the Western Highlands, we learned last night that taking the train is the preferred way to see the whole Highland area. It goes right along the Western coast near the Isle of Skye . Maybe some of you can try this one day? November is not a tourist month. Cold, rainy, windy with some things closed for the winter. The good news is that the places that are open, are uncrowded on weekdays.

Toured Holyrood Palace for the second time and almost had the place to ourselves. This is a must-see as far as I’m concerned plus they are adding items all the time. The blood spot from Mary Queen of Scot’s lover stains the floor, the furnished rooms are interesting, the fact this is used for Royal functions to this day, is compelling. Next to the palace is the Queen’s Gallery, showing one part of the Royal Collection every 6 months. This week it was Italian Baroque. I was lucky because I had just seen Rembrandt and Rubens’ use of light and now could see Caravaggio and others’ interpretations.

Stopped on Princes Street to pick up my companion’s husband’s kilt set for tonight’s ceilidh (said kaylee) held at The Hub- Edinburgh’s Festival Venue. It was once a huge gothic church. I loved the large stained glass window on the upper balcony. It portrayed two doves and three white ghostlike figures. The walls and ceiling were painted in bold blue and red banners- very elegant.

About a dozen men wore kilts to the dinner dance. The Scots demonstrated some traditional dances to a live band consisting of drummer, accordionist and keyboarder. Very nice. The band played waltzes and polkas- not our specialty, so we enjoyed watching for a change. Before dinner, an actor presented a Robert Burn’s poem while stabbing a haggis. (It looked like a human heart!). However, when we tasted haggis with smashed turnip and potato it was good- a little bit like beef hash. Salmon and berry trifle completed the meal. At our table we had Brazilians, Quebecquois, Australians, and Eastern Europeans.   Many of our foreign friends have lived in the USA for a time and speak English very well. True mundivagrants! I’m impressed.

Another walk to Holyrood, so Mike could see it. Aferwards we had a particularly fine lunch at Wedgewood on the Royal Mile. Later,   Mike watched the friendly rugby game between Scotland and South Africa on television. South Africa won.


WEST HIGHLAND TOUR by Scotland Explorer Tours.

In 2000, during our last stay in Edinburgh, I took a Highlands Tour and mostly saw the fogged inside of a bus window on a rainy stormy day! So, imagine my exhilarated state when I saw the first really blue sky on our trip. There were just 8 of us: 2 Italians, 1 Swiss, 2 Poles, and one more.

Throughout the day we drove past private forests, generally planted by Japan and nearby Norway. They are not the native Caledonian Pine, but another evergreen. Unlike the native forests, these are very dense and incapable of sustaining wildlife. We stopped at Argyll National Forest, walking near “Rest and be Thankful”, an oasis for those who hiked up this mountain. Scots are natural poets!

Wales, Ireland, Scotland, England do share lovely countryside, stone fences, sheep grazing, and green pastures. Scotland adds rushing streams, 33,000 lochs (lakes) and the beaming Scottish pride of our young guide.
We saw the outside of several castles: Stirling, Kilchurn, and Inveraray. The latter belongs to the Campbells, who forced an entire village to relocate down the road so they could have this particular castle with its view. I’d say Kilchurn’s position on Loch Awe is more enviable. As we drove along, we saw traffic signs with Gaelic names in yellow alongside the English terms.

The guide, Matt, drew a parallel between Mary Queen of Scots and Princess Diane. Both were beautiful and maligned by some of the nobility, yet adored by the commoners.

I was charmed by the village of Luss, right on Loch Lomond. We got off the tour bus, and then strolled down a narrow lane lined with one-story stone cottages. To our delight, a older woman emerged from her front door and cheerfully wished us a “Good Morning”. What a lovely spot! The swans nearby and all through the UK are plentiful and protected by Elizabeth I’s decree.

Ben Lomond (my sister, Peggy, used to live in Ben Lomond, CA) loomed above us. Some snow had fallen on the mountains the previous week. ‘Ben’ means ‘mountain’ in Gaelic. Heather covers much of the land and mountains, now brownish in winter.

We stopped in Loch Fein, famous for its seafood and in Killin with rippling falls in the middle of town. As we drove past President Eisenhower’s ancestors’ graves, I thought of his starting the People to People program that sent us to China and Mongolia.

Our last stop was a visit with a long-haired highland cow named ‘Hamish’. We drove by the 15th c. castle at Doune, the site of “Monty Python and the Hold Grail”. This movie evokes memories of long ago. I was hosting a baby shower for a neighbor. I asked Mike to take our young children to see this movie because I thought it was a comedy. Yes, I wanted them out of the house during the shower. I had no clue about the violence! They returned home with bloody anecdotes- oh my! The town of Doune has a pistol factory which supplied the gun that started the American Revolution. The expression “Armed to the Teeth” came from this town with its River Teith.

We roamed the old city then had Cumberland sausages (good!), mashed potatoes, and brown gravy at Dean Brodie’s Tavern. He was the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson’s   Dr. Jekyll and Mr.Hyde.   Brodie was a respectful citizen by day and a renegade by night.

After 8 days walking around this charming city, we set the alarm for 3:30am in order to fly back home with an airport stop in Copenhagen. Home sounds very, very good!


China & Mongolia 5/2008

China & Mongolia 2008, May 3, 2008

            People to People Mission   Beijing & Mongolia April 18-28 2008

April 18, 2008, Sunny Strong

On this day, across the USA, People to People delegates were journeying to Beijing to participate in an information and cultural exchange with other Blood Banking and Transfusion Medicine professionals. Packing everything from taro chips for digestion to extra chips in our cameras, we hurried to finish our hometown obligations, leave our generalized impressions of China behind, and ready to increase our understanding through interactions and observations.

Our Los Angeles flight left and we were off! Well, upon check-in we were told:
1. The good news was that we wouldn’t actually encounter a typhoon.
2. The bad news was the headwinds would necessitate refueling in Seoul.

Because of the long two- hour refueling in the plane in Seoul, we missed our Hong Kong transfer to Beijing. It’s tough being diplomatic when one is EXHAUSTED. But there we were, nine strangers on a mission, stranded together at the HK airport. This was our icebreaker game. “Hi, I’m Sunny. I’m sleepy, too. How will we get to Beijing?” One delegate offered to buy coffee for another. One delegate watched luggage while another inquired about a new flight. In an effort to seek assistance, the delegate leader steadfastly dialed several prefix/phone number combinations, handing the phone to George, our Cantonese/Mandarin/Chinese speaking delegate, to ease the communications. We alternated between joining a veritable mosh pit throng and lining up like crows on a telephone wire sitting on the airport carpet, our backs against a pillar.

Where would we sleep that night? How to convince Dragon Air of its responsibility to put us on a flight that day? What about our meetings with the medical school and university staff?   Mike, Pat, and George (aka Dr. Wang) begged at the Cathay Pacific desk. How pleased we were to hear that an airline representative would be right over to help us! We waited a very long time. Then there was hope that we had a flight out of HK. Each of us had a bit of information, but we were willing to trust and act as a team. OK, we were also desperate! One person spotted the red uniform of the promised airline attendant. Hearts soared!!! Then, she was gone like a flash, running away from us. What?

We learned our gate number just at the moment we were to be boarding. Running delegates following a blur of red uniform- quite a sight. We made it on the flight with no time to spare. The same cannot be said of our luggage.
China

April 20-24, 2008

Our delegation is diverse in age and background and nationality= cool!
Because I am the only non-medical type, I have our fabulous guide, Wendy, to myself. (Wendy is her English name, assumed to aid the foreigners she guides). She previously taught English at the university.

We checked into our elegant hotel, dined then crashed. Our luggage arrived the next day for most of us. Others had to wait another day!

We received a cultural briefing, learning that China is in the shape of a rooster, has 1.3 billion people and is the 3rd largest country in the world. Everyday, 1,000 car licenses are issued in Beijing, a city with a 3,000 year old history.

The Forbidden City and Tian’an men Square

This historic, huge plaza gave me chilly bumps! We were flying back from Bangkok in 1989 when passengers from around the world gathered to get the details of the student protest. We saw the building where Mao is entombed and the monument to those who died in the civil war. It is vast and formal and serious. Just as our civil war battlegrounds evoke memories of heartbreak and violence this center of Chinese government speaks volumes.   A Chinese professor from ASU wrote an article cautioning Americans to learn more of China’s history. He likened our fixation with Tian’an men Square to all visitors to the US focusing on the tragedy of Watergate or Kent State.

The same professor reminds us that 2008 communist government is not like that of the Cultural Revolution nor of Stalin’s time. Their present government is working hard to increase the comfort and quality of life of all Chinese, including those in Tibet. Our Chinese guides describe their system as ‘nationalism’.   It is truly hard to walk in another’s shoes and avoid stereotypes! Our guide, Wendy, emphasized that it is her FIRST choice to share an apartment with her extended family, to participate in the new China and be part of that progress. She said, “You may not like our history”, but it is ours. The same ASU professor reminds us that this is a history of being conquered and of building walls, not of taking over other nations.

Mao’s famous portrait surveys the square. The city was called ‘forbidden’ because commoners were not allowed to enter. The Imperial Garden combines lush greenery, winding tree trunks, and dusty pale roses. It is lovely.

Drum Tower & Hutongs

I climbed a dark, drafty, steep stone stairway high up in a 13th c. tower housing 25 large drums about the size of a wine cask. At the half hour, volunteer drummers in bright uniforms ceremoniously drum out the time for all to hear. They continue a tradition begun centuries ago when the gates of the Beijing city walls were opened at 7am and closed at 5pm. The drummers’ strokes form a pattern while they make their booming sound. Very dramatic. Afterwards, we walked outside around the tower roof, taking in the city view. On one side, we looked down into the courtyards of the old Hutong neighborhoods. The word ‘Hutong’ means a narrow lane between two courtyards.
On another side we saw modern Beijing with a mind-boggling array of exciting, new buildings. One has a sense of this being one ‘happening’ place!

We rode a rickshaw along a pretty tree-lined boulevard lining a canal, down narrow streets into the gray (the color of the common workers) one-story homes of the Hutong. The guide led me the private home of a retired chemical factory worker and her husband who is an automobile repairman. Normally, people retire at 55 or 60, but she was granted early retirement due to the nature of her work. As most Chinese, they have one child, now a French major at the university. Their home belongs to his workplace. The land it stands upon, like all land, belongs to the government.

This Hutong had three rooms: kitchen, living room, and bedroom. The toilet (not plumbed) was outside. From this small kitchen, she produced homemade dumplings, a pork and celery dish and rice and tea. We sat on little stools at a folding table. I imagine this gives them more floor space in their small home. Bright posters and a china doll decorate the bedroom. Books lined one wall. Our hosts invited us to watch television while she prepared our lunch. I brought them some simple gifts as a thank you.

Summer Palace

Oh, the Empress Cixi knew how to indulge herself! She picked a beautiful site by the lake for her summer retreat. In fact, she lived there more months of the year than in the Forbidden City. Her symbol is the phoenix. The emperor’s is the dragon. These are depicted in statues, carvings, gargoyles, etc. The Chinese believe they are descendents of the dragon. The main road through Beijing is called “The Dragon’s Pulse”.

We strolled the well kempt grounds shaded by a lovely carved walkway. Light gray rocks, sculpted by the rains, decorate and border the hiking paths. April is a fine month to visit this part of the world. It is hot, humid and crowded in summer.

Temple of Heaven & Park

South Park is a senior paradise. Want to dance, meet friends, play cards, sing, and play in a pickup band or mini opera? Want to do Tai Chi or Yoga surrounded by flowers and green? Volunteers, who are experts, teach others. The atmosphere is happy; many smiles and much lively chatter. These seniors look hardy and engaged in life. It reminded me of a conversation I had on a plane a few years ago. The Chinese seatmate lamented the fact his father did not want to stay in Seattle because he missed the peer gatherings of his Chinese neighborhood.

We continued to the Temple of Heaven where the Emperor made sacrifices to the Jade God. He would petition for a good harvest. Goats were sacrificed in ornate brass cauldrons. Fruits were put on golden plates as offerings. These buildings have been recently restored. The vivid blues, reds, and yellows gleam in the sunlight. Gorgeous.

The Olympics

We only had time to drive past some venues. Wow! Beijing is an architectural showcase for world-class designers. My personal favorite is the National Stadium nicknamed The Bird Nest. It is formidable, whimsical, and beautiful. The Kowhais building looms over the area like a giant robot or dinosaur. The Aquatic Center is whimsical blue. It will be fascinating to watch the August Olympics.

Thousands of trees have been planted along the roads to beatify Beijing. Some of these in very humble areas.

The Great Wall of Juyongguan Pass

What a wonderful day. I did not realize the real hike is up the many uneven, steep stone stairs to the great wall. I am grateful it was neither too hot not too cold, as exertion was the order of the day. The wall is no longer contiguous. We hiked a less crowed section rebuilt by the first emperor of the Ming Dynasty to protect against Mongolian raids.

The beautiful green hills and mist plus ancient huts and towers reward us as we climb and climb determined to reach to top. Spring flowers dot the trees.

Foot Massage Parlor!

In China, a whole-body massage does not include the feet. This is left to the foot massage specialists.

Imagine entering a gold and black marble foyer, greeted by lithe lovely hostesses, escorted down a long corridor to a 4-person suite and to your lounge chair. Boy, girl, boy girl. Our therapists greet us, and then invite us to trust them by putting our feet into a dark, black barrel of unknown liquid. Herbs? Eel oil? We soak.

They begin with a shoulder and neck massage. When some of us are swooning with pleasure, they attack our feet. For the next HOUR they massage our feet- every little bone and nook; the young man who is assigned to me smiles and works non-stop for 1.5 hours. Dad’s massage therapist does the same. I imagine he is enjoying it as much as I. Afterwards, he begs to differ. In fact, 70% of the session hurt a bit, he said. In my case, only 5 % made me wince, usually when too much pressure was applied to the front of my calves. I imagined I’d be bruised from this? Instead, I believe the massage relaxed muscles tensed during our hike to the Great Wall. We were not sore the next day. I’m ready for my next foot massage!

Mongolia April 25-27

Our second travel glitch occurred on the day we were to leave Beijing at 8am. In fact, we left at 8pm. Ugh! They bussed us to an airport hotel for meals and a rest. It was tough to forget we were seeing airport walls instead of either Beijing or Ulaanbaatar! After our pity party, we arrived, exhausted, in Mongolia. It was decidedly worth the trip.

This vast, beige land is so exotic. The casual style and pace were a contrast to the industry of Beijing. The Russian influence in architecture and food added to the sense we had traveled more than two hours from China.

I admire the harmonious relationship of Mongolians with Nature. It feels like they use what they need, and then save the rest for others. However, the mining, one of their main resources, has polluted the fresh water lakes. This is especially dire in a country with lower than normal rainfall in recent years. The Gobi desert is moving north.

We visited Buddhist temples and monasteries. Some newly restored, others destroyed by Russia and left as ruins. The bright silk scarves of Blue, yellow, white and red wave in the breeze. This breeze becomes a whispery hum in the canyons of this mountainous land.

Having lunch and a visit in a GER   (we say yurt) was an adventure: Yak milk tea, homemade soup and dumplings, fried bread and brittle hard cheese served by our host, the father of a daughter attending university and a son who accompanied me on my horseback ride. He sang a plaintive folksong as we rode away from the ger into the sparse, silent landscape. If you see the movie “Cave of the Yellow Dog” you have met this family! In the midst of this nomadic life, comes a cell phone ring. In fact, I was startled to hear my own phone as I slid down some loose rock after visiting a Buddhist shrine. Many TV antennas on gers we passed. This Mongolian family had one ger for cooking and one for sleeping etc. The outhouse was a few feet away.

Again, I had a private tour and driver, as I was the only non-medical delegate in our group. We stopped to admire camels, goats, sheep, yaks, and an eagle along the roads. The roads can be very rough, deep potholes, sharp rocks, and much dust.

Our last evening in Ulaanbaatar, we were delighted to hear a Mongolian orchestra including the famous two-string fiddle with horsehead carved on top. There was a high-pitched chanteuse, a petite contortionist, and an incredibly beautiful dancer. All wore traditional silk costumes. What a treat! When asked whether I’d seen Mongolian art, I answered that the everyday dress qualifies. Leather designs appliquéd on white leather boots, other symbols embroidered or appliquéd on jackets, saddles and belts. They are a
handsome people, reminiscent of our Inuits.

In summary, I would recommend People to People (headquartered in Spokane). We did visit with locals, our guides were knowledgeable, and history was emphasized to give us a context for understanding. How fortunate we are.



                        Ambassador Programs
Blood Banking and Transfusion Medicine Delegation to China and Mongolia, April 18-28, 2008

Delegation Leader: D. Michael Strong, PhD

Introduction

This delegation included 12 professionals, all members of AABB, one guest and one national guide, Meng Liangliang (Bruce). There were also local guides for China, Bao Xiaolan (Wendy) and Mongolia, Mr Ayangaa (Augi). Delegates included: physicians, managers, teachers, laboratorians, a public relations specialist, a donor recruiter, a stem cell specialist, and Industry representatives including regulatory and marketing specialists. They represented a broad range of expertise in transfusion medicine and blood banking, tissue banking and cellular therapies.
The objectives of the visits to hospitals, blood centers and treatment centers was to:
            Gain an understanding of the practice of transfusion medicine in each country
Gain insight into the practice of blood and tissue banking in each country, including donor selection and safety
            Explore the status of cellular therapies
Discuss and examine the practice of treatment of bleeding disorders
Exchange information on managing adverse errors and accidents in transfusion medicine as well as managing threats to blood safety
In addition to the professional meetings and exchange of information, an important aspect of the trip was the sharing of cultural information and experiencing the important historic sights of the two countries. Our guides did an excellent job of informing us as to history, daily life and attitudes of the people in our host countries. All were impressed with the experience, including the rigors of travel.

Journal

April 18-20, 2008,

On this day, across the USA, People to People delegates were journeying to Beijing to participate in an information and cultural exchange with other Blood Banking and Transfusion Medicine professionals. Packing everything from taro chips for digestion to extra chips in our cameras, we hurried to finish our hometown obligations, leave our generalized impressions of China behind, and be ready to increase our understanding through interactions and observations.

Our Los Angeles flight left and we were off! Well, upon check-in we were told:
  1. The good news was that we wouldn’t actually encounter a typhoon.
  2. The bad news was the headwinds would necessitate refueling in Seoul.



Because of the long two- hour re-fueling in Seoul, we missed our Hong Kong transfer to Beijing. It’s tough being diplomatic when one is EXHAUSTED. But there we were, nine strangers on a mission, stranded together at the HK airport. This was our icebreaker game. “Hi, I’m Sunny. I’m sleepy, too. How will we get to Beijing?” One delegate offered to buy coffee for another. One delegate watched luggage while another inquired about a new flight. In an effort to seek assistance, the delegate leader steadfastly dialed several prefix/phone number combinations, handing the phone to George, our Cantonese/Mandarin/Chinese speaking delegate, to ease the communications. We alternated between joining a veritable mosh pit throng and lining up like crows on a telephone wire sitting on the airport carpet, our backs against a pillar.

Where would we sleep that night? How to convince Dragon Air of its responsibility to put us on a flight that day? What about our meetings with the medical school and university staff?  Mike, Pat, and George (aka Dr. Wang) begged at the Cathay Pacific desk. How pleased we were to hear that an airline representative would be right over to help us! We waited a very long time. Then there was hope that we had a flight out of HK. Each of us had a bit of information, but we were willing to trust and act as a team. OK, we were also desperate! One person spotted the red uniform of the promised airline attendant. Hearts soared!!! Then, she was gone like a flash, running away from us. What?

We learned our gate number just at the moment we were to be boarding. Running delegates following a blur of red uniform- quite a sight. Across the airport, down the escalator, onto a train, up an escalator, across the airport; all on the run; we made it on the flight with no time to spare. The same cannot be said of our luggage.

Recorded by Mrs. Sunny Strong, Children’s Librarian, Edmonds, WA


April 21, 2008
Beijing, China

Meng Liangliang (Bruce) and Dr. Michael Strong briefed the delegation at the Swissotel in Beijing.  Bruce introduces Bao Xiaolan (Wendy), our local guide. This was the first time all of the delegates were together, as three had arrived one day earlier. This initial gathering gave us much useful information, from understanding cultural differences to the importance of personal promptness for the good of the whole. He stressed the five-minute principle and that tardiness was highly frowned upon. Bruce showed us China’s map, flag, and 23 provinces, summarized its long history, and explained the importance of saving face. We learned losing face and giving face referred to; the former loses respect and the latter is to ask for help. He advised us to be sensitive to the different viewpoints regarding the Chinese government’s interactions with Taiwan and Tibet. Public places like the airports and public squares are inappropriate for discussion of our political opinions. He introduced us to the “whatever is good for China” slogan to facilitate our understanding of national unity in China. If there were 13 delegates there were at least 13 cameras, and Bruce advised us to ask to take pictures when in China and professional meetings. Photographing patients is prohibited. Bruce reviewed currency exchanges and what monies are acceptable in China and Mongolia. Business card exchanges are important. We should show respect in professional meetings by honoring the protocol. There will be a brief introduction about the facility followed by a presentation by Michael Strong. We were urged to learn to use chopsticks. Bargaining is expected in some shops and stalls. Our national guides are good resources in this regard.

We were told that China is a very safe country. As in any tourist area, there may be pickpockets, so be vigilant. Bruce then briefed us on Mongolia, its history, people, customs and geography. We are restricted to 40 pounds check in plus carry on. No liquids are allowed in carry on luggage.

Dr. Strong started with introductions and asked for volunteers to keep journal notes on each day of the trip. He briefly reviewed the professional meetings in regard to who would be making presentations and things that must be done such as thank you notes, gift presentations, evaluations, and CME forms. Dr. Strong reminded us we have an opportunity to meet and converse with our Chinese counterparts in various meetings. We brought our gifts for our Chinese and Mongolian counterparts, and distributed them in tote bags for ease of delivery. Gifts consisted of AABB and other professional materials plus cultural items from various parts of the country.

Dr. Strong prepared and distributed thank you notes for our hosts that everybody signed.

Recorded by Ms. Virginia Hughes, Acting Director/Asst. Professor, Auburn University, Prattville, AL


 

Cultural Program

 

Monday, April 21, 2008  

Briefing and overview on China

The briefing on Chinese culture included the history of one of the oldest cultures in historical times.  Beijing, the capital, is the political and cultural center of the country.  The Chinese Society of Blood Banking Transfusion (CSBT) and the Beijing Red Cross Blood Banking Center are headquartered in Beijing. This city of 15 million is home to important hospitals. Beijing is more than 850 years old in a country with a 3000-year-old history.

The cultural program for Monday included a walking tour of Tian’anman Square and the Forbidden City. Tian’anman Square is located in the center of Beijing and has a special significance for the Chinese people.  For the local people it is a place to relax and a place for special holiday celebrations.

The Forbidden City was the imperial palace during the Ming and Qing dynasties.
 It houses numerous rare treasures and is divided into several courts where the emperor exercised his supreme power over the nation and where he lived with his royal family.

The evening event, a theatrical performance of the history of Kung Fu, tells the story of a young boy who faces challenges in learning how to become a monk.  This performance told the story through the pageantry of dance acrobatics and martial arts.

During this first day of cultural immersion, The People to People Delegation got a very good sense of the culture and pride of a country that is unified in thought and processes, many of which serve to rally support for blood donations.  We discovered a sense of national pride, especially with the upcoming international Olympics.


Recorded by Pat Paulauski, Director of Public Relations, Florida’s Blood Centers, Orlando, FL


*********************************************************************

April 22, 2008 

Blood Banking and Transfusion Medicine
Professional Delegation
Beijing

We arrived at the Beijing Red Cross and met delegates from the Chinese Society of Blood Transfusion. The following Chinese counterparts were introduced: Zhu Qingsheng – President, The Chinese Society of Blood Transfusion
Prof. Ni Daoming – Vice President & Secretary General; Prof Di Daoming, Vice Secretary of the Society; Liu Jiang, Beijing Red Cross; Ren Fu-Rong, Director of Blood Transfusion Safety Research Laboratory.

The American delegates were introduced in turn by Dr. Strong. He offered thanks to the Chinese counterparts for their hospitality and recognized this gathering as a great opportunity to discuss transfusion practices between the US and China.

President Qingsheng welcomed us warmly on behalf of Chinese Society of Blood Transfusion. It had been three years since the last delegation had visited China. He acknowledged us as experts in transfusion medicine and the US as the most developed country and most advanced in the practice of medicine. He stated that China was still a developing country and there was much room for improvement in the area of transfusion medicine and looked forward to exchanges of ideas and experiences from the US delegation. There has been an increase in donor criteria and requirements and China has implemented intense oversight of donor selection over the past ten years. He wished us a successful trip and great friendship from the Chinese people.

Prof Daoming, Vice President & Secretary-General of The Chinese Society of Blood Transfusion, presented historical perspectives of the Society and future goals. The Society was founded in 1988. Its primary goal is to incrementally improve transfusion medicine in China. There are approximately 400 institutional members and 20,000 individual members. There are six committees and an expert panel for offering advice on technology and blood establishments in China. The Society was responsible for writing the first national guidelines for transfusion and has one blood center in each of 23 provinces throughout China. In 2001, the Chinese government invested 200 million dollars in blood services that were used for new equipment, facility renovations, and quality improvement. Four years ago twenty percent of blood came from paid donors, today over ninety-five percent come from volunteer donors and community initiatives. Blood establishments have good rapport with medical organizations in the US. In April 2006, CSBT participated in a conference with AABB; they have benefited from symposiums and workshops sponsored by AABB. The CSBT also has a good working relationship with Johns Hopkins and NIH. In June of 2008, they will host the ISBT conference. Prof Daoming hoped that the relationship between China and US will continue to promote continued improvement in blood safety.

  
Liu Jian, from the BRCBC, gave a brief history of the Beijing Red Cross. The functions of the BRCBC are blood collection and supply, research, and training of staff. The BRCBC supplies blood to 150 hospitals in Beijing. It was founded in 1957 and its main facility is 8000 square meters. It has a fixed value of 1.5 hundred million dollars and houses 422 staff within 11 administrative departments and 9 centers. The BRCBC has trained over 5000 employees to date. We toured all laboratories in the BRCBC including apheresis, whole blood donation, donor testing and component preparation, and the HLA lab.
In 2007, 300,000 units were collected which was an increase of ten percent from 2006. Standards from AABB are implemented and processes are reviewed every six months. There were 30,000 therapeutic units collected. There are 20 bloodmobiles in Beijing, which visit about 15 sites per day, including university campuses. In October 2008, two more collection sites will be utilized. There are ongoing clinical studies with Roche and Johns Hopkins. Blood safety strategies from WHO (World Health Organization) are also implemented. There are over 1000 Rh negative units stored frozen. During the Olympics, there will be an inventory of over 200 fresh RBC units. The BRCBC follows ISO quality systems and all blood will be screened using NAT, in addition to the current test menu. All testing used must have been approved by SFDA. The blood screening laboratory participates in both external and international quality control. Many research studies have been published in international journals. The HLA laboratory performs all related testing in China, which currently totals over 65,000 samples. There are over 15,000 donors registered in the BRCBC.


Overall impression – the Chinese delegation was very interested in our insight and very professional and proud of the efforts they have made toward the improved safety of the China blood supply. Most impressive was the apheresis donor room with about 100 students waiting to donate and watching the NBA playoff games on TV. There were about 50 apheresis chairs all filled with donors. When asked about why they were donating, the answer was to help their society.

Recorded by Karen Long, VP of Regulatory Affairs, Roche Diagnostics,
Pleasanton, CA

*********************************************************************

April 22, 2008

Peking University Institute of Hematology (PUIH)

We were given a presentation by Professor Huang Xiaojun at the PUIH, which is comprised of 6 wards, 10 laboratories, 29 departments with 118 nurses, 35 physicians, 1 academician, and 7 professors. Cellular Therapy and the Cord blood bank are collaborative. In 1999 there were 1000 outpatients, in 2003 there were 6000+. The PUIH performs allo and syngeneic bone marrow transplants, human progenitor cell, and cord blood transplants; there were 217 in 2007 and 1452 performed to date.   The cord blood bank has stored over 8000 units for public use, up to 2007. They are regulatory members of ASICORD and expressed interest in attaining AABB accreditation for recognition and improvement in quality. There are 23 beds in the BMT unit. One particular area of interest is the video monitor of patients, which could be viewed by family members outside of unit itself and allowed two way video conferencing. The Hematology Laboratory has a FACSCalibur and FACSort. The cytogenetics lab runs 300 samples per day and includes PCR capability for DNA analysis.

Recorded by Dr Leonor Fernando, Director of Apheresis, University of California, Davis Medical Center, Sacramento, CA

Cultural Program

Drum Tower & Hutongs

We climbed a dark, drafty, steep stone stairway high up to the area housing 25 large drums about the size of a wine cask in Oporto. At the half hour, drummers in bright uniforms ceremoniously drum out the time for all to hear. They continue a tradition begun centuries ago when the gates of the Beijing city walls were opened at 7am and closed at 5pm. The drummers’ strokes form a pattern while they make their booming sound, very dramatic. Afterwards, we walked around the tower roof, taking in the city view. On one side, we looked down into the courtyards of the old Hutong neighborhoods. On another side we saw modern Beijing.

We rode a rickshaw along a pretty tree-lined boulevard lining a canal, down narrow streets into the gray one-story homes of the Hutong. The guide led me into the private home of a retired chemical factory worker and her husband who is an automobile repairman. Normally, people retire at 55 or 60, but she was granted early retirement due to the nature of her work. As most Chinese, they have one child, a French major at the university. Their home belongs to his workplace. The land it stands upon, like all land, belongs to the government.

This Hutong had three rooms: kitchen, living room, and bedroom. The toilet (not plumbed) was outside. From this small kitchen, she produced homemade dumplings, a pork and celery dish and rice and tea. We sat on little stools at a folding table. I imagine this gives them more floor space in their small home. Bright posters and a china doll decorate the bedroom. Books lined one wall. Our hosts invited us to watch television while she prepared our lunch. I brought them some simple gifts as a thank you.

Concurrent Guest Program recorded by Sunny Strong


April 23, 2008  

Visit to Traditional Chinese Medicine Hospital

Traditional Chinese Medicine            
Met with Dr. Nan Jihong (Nancy) at the Guang’anmen Hospital (GAH) – the official hospital of the Olympic games. Nancy oversees students that are studying from abroad. She explained that prior to her current position she worked in experimental animal research. Over 800 doctors and nurses work in 28 clinical departments combining traditional Chinese medicine with Western Medicine. Founded in 1955 with the China Academy of TCM, GAH has trained over 1,000 physicians in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). Practices within TCM are Tuina (Massage), acupuncture, herbal medicines and QiGong (TaiChi is one component of QiGong). However they practice integrated medicine in addition to more modern/Western medicine. They are leaders in patient care, education, and research.


TCM is a very important part of Chinese culture and the body follows nature and improves life. For instance, Nancy pointed out that you don’t see Chinese wearing T-Shirts in the spring. Instead the body follows the season. In spring everything is opening up (pores) and you need to protect these openings from invasion. So Chinese wear several layers, even sweaters. In the autumn, pores close and this is the time that Chinese wear T-shirts when the pores are closed and not available for nasty invasion. This is changing with the younger people. China is considering teaching TCM in grade school.

Currently there are colleges for training in the practice of TCM, prior to these; the practice was passed down through families. Patient Care is based on 2 diagnoses given to the patients, a Western diagnosis (i.e. Cancer), and a TCM diagnosis (i.e. “blood stasis”)
Care is then integrated, with surgery first if needed (can be done at this facility or a Western facility), or if a body is strong enough they can remain at the facility and receive chemotherapy/ radiotherapy.

Transfusions are given at the institution if needed. Nancy confirmed that during surgeries there is both homologous and autologous component transfusions, and the capabilities of utilizing cell salvage is available

There are 3,000 outpatient visits daily and 80% utilize only TCM. The hospital has 600 beds.

Diagnosis is made by 4 methods:
  1. Observation: Holistic, spirit, body shape, face (complexion), hair, nail, skin, tongue (movement, position, size, color, coating [color, thickness]).
  2. Hearing/smelling: voice, breathing, smell of breath
  3. Asking: history – about 10 questions based on Observation and Hearing/smelling
Pulse taking – takes a lot of practice combined with clinical diagnosis. Different doctors can have different interpretation.
This leads to Syndrome differentiation/method of treatment. The patient is responsible for purchasing “medical notes”, in which documentation is made, and the patient keeps this record with him.

GAH is recognized as a National Center for diabetes, cancer, and anal and intestinal disorders. GAH has created an herbal hemorrhoid injection that is a 1- time fix with dosage and injection sites important. Each department utilizes its own herbal treatments (i.e. the respiratory department has developed an herbal paste that is applied to the acupoints of the back to prevent asthma attacks). Treatment is in the summer for winter asthma and the paste is on the back for 6 hours, removed, and patient comes back in 10 days. Total number of treatments is 3.  They have over 30 years experience with this treatment and on a single day can have 7,000 patients lined up for it.

There are no pediatric inpatient beds; however they will follow those with chronic diseases as outpatients. Treatments used must go through clinical trials (human – animal – human) prior to SFDA approval; then it is considered “licensed therapy”

The GAH visit was finished by watching patients receive a massage for neck problems, acupuncture for stroke and incontinence, and watching the CTM pharmacy fill the daily prescriptions of herbal medicines for patients.

For lunch we went to a Friendship store which is a government run store for Chinese goods with “good prices, no bargain”. Or was that “no bargaining”. The rest of the afternoon was spent climbing the Great Wall (once some of us found the alternative wall through very secret stairs and passageways). Mike and Sunny were apparently first to the top on the more widely traveled portion of Wall, though Pat showed us all how to conquer both parts in a single afternoon. We all would have enjoyed a foot massage at the end of the walk but settled for spicy Chinese food before we got 4 -5 hours sleep.

 Recorded by Dale DeCan, Intl Marketing Manager, Roche Molecular Systems, Pleasanton, CA, and Dr. Kathleen Nicol, Director, Nationwide Children’s Hospital, Sunbury, OH

Cultural Program

Summer Palace

Oh, the Empress Cixi knew how to indulge herself! She picked a beautiful site by the lake for her summer retreat. In fact, she lived there more months of the year than in the Forbidden City. Her symbol is the phoenix. The emperor’s is the dragon. These are depicted in statues, carvings, gargoyles, etc. The Chinese believe they are descendents of the dragon. The main road through Beijing is called “The Dragon’s Pulse”.

We strolled the well kempt grounds shaded by a lovely carved walkway. Light gray rocks, sculpted by the rains, decorate and border the hiking paths.

Temple of Heaven & Park

South Park is a senior paradise. Want to dance, meet friends, play cards, sing, and play in a pickup band? Want to do Tai Chi or Yoga surrounded by flowers and green? Volunteers, who are experts, teach others. The atmosphere is happy, with many smiles and lively chatter. These seniors look hardy and engaged in life. It reminded me of a conversation I had on a plane a few years ago. The Chinese seatmate lamented the fact his father did not want to stay in Seattle because he missed these peer gatherings of his Chinese neighborhood.

We continued to the Temple of Heaven where the Emperor made sacrifices to the Jade God. He would petition for a good harvest. Goats were sacrificed and produce proffered. These buildings have been recently restored. The vivid blues, reds, and yellows gleam in the sunlight. Gorgeous.


Concurrent Guest Program recorded by Sunny Strong








April 24, 2008

Trip to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia

Travel from Beijing, China to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
After getting up very early and making our way to the airport, through customs, checking our bags, getting some coffee from a Starbucks clone coffee shop called SPR coffee, we settled in at the gate with the confidence that this trip would be less eventful than the trip from LA to Beijing. We immediately noticed that the flight was running 12 hours late.

After we scrambled through our phrase-books for a list of profanities in Chinese and Mongolian (with English words thrown in for clarity), Bruce herded us off to a bus that takes us and everyone else on the plane to a nearby hotel for the day. It specializes in airline employees and had a Chinese buffet for lunch that reminded us of buffets in the US unfortunately.

On the plus side, there was free internet at the hotel so we had a lot of time to catch up on our email. I also had an interesting conversation with a nice student on the bus, a Mongolian Mormon on break from BYU who spoke perfect English that he learned on his mission- in Idaho. He told me that travel to Mongolia was nearly always delayed this time of year due to high winds and dust storms. He’d already been on the road for 4 days trying to get home from New York.

We finally got off the ground at about 10 pm. 14 hours behind schedule. The two and a half hour flight was uneventful. However, the contrast between Beijing Capital International Airport and Chinggis Khaan International Airport was remarkable. The new terminal 3 in Beijing was an enormous architectural wonder, newly opened in February and designed to handle the millions who are coming to Beijing this summer for the Olympics. On the other end of the flight, the small, Soviet-era building in Mongolia was clean and functional but no more than that. They didn’t have gate numbers on the tickets there, because there was only one gate. It proved to be indicative of the contrasts between our two host cities. Four bags were missing when we arrived in Mongolia. It was that kind of day.

Recorded by John Reagan, Manager, Puget Sound Blood Center, Mountlake Terrace, WA

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April 25, 2008 

The Blood Center of the Ministry of Health
Center and Hematology Department of Health Services
University of Mongolia, Ulaanbataar, Mongolia

The morning started with a welcome and introductions. The facility has a 50-year history and this day was considered an historic event being the first time they had been visited by an American delegation. They asked for cooperation and sharing of information for the ultimate purpose of blood safety.
Mongolia is divided into 21 provinces with 46,000 to 122,000 population. Each province is further divided into smaller areas called soums. There are 340 soums with a population of 3000 in each. Fifty percent reside in Ulaanbaatar. The first blood transfusion station was set up in 1956. In 1963 a government decree made it official. In 2007 it was reorganized into the National Blood Transfusion Center by the MOH. There are 26 blood centers in Mongolia all headed by MOH. In 1994 voluntary donations began.


Ulaankhu Davaadori, Director of Mongolian National Blood Center gave us a warm welcome and stated this was the first time such a large group of professionals have visited their center. He proceeded to review the history and demographics of the center.
There are 4 centers with populations 46,000 to 122,000.
The capital of Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar, comprises 50% of population. In 1938 transfusion started with war wounded, 1956 first transfusion station, 1963 first official transfusion station established by decree and 1994 Mongolia went to all volunteer donors. In 2007 a decision of MOH established a national blood center. There are 26 blood banks in Mongolia

Different units of the National Blood Center include: donor collection, production of components, Lab, QA, QC management.

First Time Donors
                                    Whole Country            Ulaanbaatar                Countryside
New donors                             55%                         61.2%                            39.6%
Red cells                                   22%                         26%                               56%
Plasma                                        5%                           6%                                 2%
Directed donation                      5%                           6.5%                              2.2%

Per 1000 population                              7                             15                                    3.5

Collections
In blood center                           58%                        41%                                93%
Outside of center                       42%                        59%                                75%





Donor Gender
Males                          40%
Females                       60%

48% of donors are students, 17% military and 17% state employees

  TEST                                                        Method
ABO group                                                   slide
Rh                                                                 slide
Syphilis                                                          RPR
Anti-HIV                                                      Elisa
HBsAg                                                          Elisa
Bilirubin                                                        kleggann-groff
ALT                                                              Raitman-frenkel
TP                                                                 Goriyaev net
RBC                                                               Goriyaev net
Platelet                                                          Goriyaev net
Hgb                                                               spec

Mongolian blood type distribution

A                       20-23%
B                       32%
O                       33-40%
AB                    7.9%
Rh neg              0.6%

There were only 5-6 cases of complications due to incompatible blood, as stated; 3 were due to plasma products and 2 from RBC transfusions. Reactions or complications are not reported due to the non-reporting system.

340 soums use whole blood because there is no equipment for blood separation. Local donor blood banks are making only whole blood and separated components are not available.

                                                            Whole Blood
Soums                                                        100%
Other cities                                                  20
Ulaanbaatar                                                   1




Provision of Blood Components

                                                Ulaanbaatar               other cities    Soums
WB                                                      100%                      80%             60%
pRBCs                                                  60%                       30%               0
FFP                                                       50%                         2%               0
Cryo                                                      30%                          0                 0
Plt Conc.                                               20%                          0                 0
Albumin                                                30%                          0                 0


Kell positive population = 0.9%

In 2003 the Department of Quality Management was established. In 2007 the first reference lab opened. Prior to 1994, Donors used to be paid but are now classified as non-remunerated. 7 of 1000 persons are donors.
International knowledge of transfusion is high but in Mongolia it is lacking. Financial resources are limited for outside training of MDs. There is limited outside international cooperation. There is no emergency blood supply.


The Goals of the Blood Center are Government resolution of problems, work to strengthen lab and make quality blood products, train MDs in proper use of blood products, establish reference lab and be on track with international standards.

The following questions were asked:

1.     How can we cooperate with US to solve problems and set priorities?
2.     Training of international staff?
3.     Joint training and research initiatives?
4.     Propose to conduct joint projects and solve joint problems.

The majority of attendees were MD’s. Medical Education consists of 4 yrs medical school and 2 year residency in clinical lab.

Donors less than 25 yrs of age are healthier and have less hepatitis B incidence
Hepatitis B is a problem in Mongolia.
Age range for donors is 18 to 50 yrs
0.2% of donors are directed from relatives

Donors in Ulaanbaatar
New                55%
Repeat             22%
Directed            5%

In the afternoon Dr. Kathleen Nicol gave a lecture on pediatric/neonate transfusion and Dr. Leonor Ferdinand discussed the Circular of Information for blood transfusion.

Recorded by Edith Whiting, Victorville Community Hospital and Ardele Hanson, Medical Technologist Magic Valley Regional Medical Center, Twin Falls, ID

Cultural Program

Having lunch and a visit in a GER   (we say Yurt) was an adventure: Yak milk tea, homemade soup and dumplings, fried bread and brittle hard cheese served by our host, the father of a daughter attending university and a son who accompanied me on my horseback ride. He sang a plaintive folksong as we rode away from the Ger into the sparse, silent landscape. If you see the movie “Cave of the Yellow Dog”, you have met this family! In the midst of this nomadic life, comes a cell phone ring. In fact, I was startled to hear my own phone as I slid down some loose rock after visiting a Buddhist shrine. Many TV antennas on Gers we passed. This Mongolian family had one Ger for cooking and one for sleeping etc. The outhouse was a few feet away.

Again, I had a private tour and driver, as I was the only non-medical delegate in our group. We stopped to admire camels, goats, sheep, yaks, and an eagle along the roads. The roads can be very rough, deep potholes, sharp rocks, and much dust.

Our last evening in Ulaanbaatar, we were delighted to hear a Mongolian orchestra including the famous two-string fiddle with horsehead carved on top. There was a high-pitched chanteuse, a petite contortionist, and an incredibly beautiful dancer. All wore traditional silk costumes. What a treat! When asked whether I’d seen Mongolian art, I answered that the everyday dress qualifies. Leather designs appliquéd on white leather boots, other symbols embroidered or appliquéd on jackets, saddles and belts. They are a
handsome people, reminiscent of the Inuits in the United States.

In summary, I would recommend People to People (headquartered in Spokane). We did visit with locals, our guides were knowledgeable, and history was emphasized to give us a context for understanding. How fortunate we are.
                 
Concurrent Guest Visit recorded by Sunny Strong








April 26, 2008

Mongolia Cultural Day

This morning we enjoyed some cultural sights, beginning with the Manzshir Monastery. On our way going there we heard a brief history of Mongolia, which has a population of about 3 million people. Over 1.5 million live in Ulaanbaatar and the remaining are distributed around the rural area. On our way to the park was a stop to participate in a Mongolian custom. When a warrior goes to war a stone signifies his return. Like in any war, some stones remain indicating perhaps death of a warrior. Arrival at the Manzshir monastery was not what I expected but we climbed to where a ruin stood. There were some pictures attesting to the existence of this monastery. Visited a museum. Had lunch at a Seoul restaurant buffet style. We then went to the Gandan Monastery wherein some very persistent children selling seeds to feed the pigeons met us. We visited the main temple where a picture of the Dahli Lama as a young man is shown with Avalokitesvara looking over all the people. We went around the prayer wheels praying for a safe return to Beijing the following day. We stopped by the monument of Chinggis Khaan before returning to our hotel. We had a farewell dinner in a banquet room with a European theme and were treated to folklore music Mongolian style, including the two hair Horsehead Fiddle and Bass, a contortionist performer, a singer and a dancer. 

Recorded by Maria Olszewski, Medical Technologist, Children’s Memorial Hospital

Chicago, IL