May – June 2011
Italy & Switzerland
5/29
Upon arrival at the train station at Fiumicino Airport, I can’t
help wondering why several macho Italian men are clad in flamingo pink and
black. Mike informs me Palermo’s soccer team plays here today. Confident of my
travelling skills, I read the train schedule and tell Mike he has time to get a
cappuccino before the train leaves at 9:23. Alas, while he is in line, they
announce our train is boarding right now! We rush. Suitcase in tow, I struggle to a seat across
from an Italian woman about my age. She is poised stylishly and emitted a
haughty, secure air. My mentioning grandchildren melted the distance between us
and we chat away.
We are welcomed to the apartment by Signora Nuccia, the
mamma of the owner. She did her best to explain Rome’s elaborate (and noble)
recycle program. It’s optimistically called “Ama” which means ‘She loves.’ Four
large drawers command about a fifth of the apartment’s tiny kitchen. Each has a
different function and different colored plastic bag insert. Each category
pickup is scheduled. Monday, Wednesday and Friday pm it’s food and organic
waste in a white bag. From 7-8:30am, Wednesdays and Saturdays, we are to
dispose of the glass, plastics and metal containers in a blue bag. Have I lost
you yet? We haul the bag down 4 flights of time worn slopey stone stairs and
line them up near the curb. This is VACATION?
Mike watches the soccer game on a large screen TV at our
petite Rome apartment. A penthouse! Look forward to eating our meals alfresco
on the cute, bright yellow terrace. I am minimizing the fact neither the
Jacuzzi nor shower work! The sunny terrace makes up for it.
When we call our longtime friends, Franco & Daniela,
they suggest we come right over. We ask if they mind jet-lagged conversation.
Since Sunday is the time they’re free, we take a cab right over, completely
groggy from the long plane trip. To and from Franco’s apartment we had
harrowing and rapid taxi rides through Rome.
One car closed its door just before we sped by. I told the taxi driver
he drove like our New York cabbies. He smiled. He revved, I prayed.
Dreamy (expensive) alfresco meal: pizza then nociolla
gelato. The pizza was thin crust with minimal cheese and toppings. Our USA
gelato is just not gushy and intense. I plan to have a gelato a day! Our
Chianti is never this full bodied and smooth. I plan to have a glass of wine a
day, too.
5/30
After a decent night’s sleep, we roamed Rome, drifting
through our favorite piazzas. What a fabulous people-watching city this is. We
chose a shady table for caprese Panini and watched the world go by. Each person
is interesting from this vantage point. But wait; who ARE those five guys with
perfectly tailored dark blue suits and handmade Italian shoes, briskly walking
by even though the temperature is in the 80’s? AHHHHH, the soccer connection.
Mike thinks these are the coaches and staff of Milano’s team.
Tonight I’ll serve some mystery vegetable. How arrogant of
me not to pack my Italian dictionary. It’s greens of some sort. Will serve with
handmade ravioli, bread, salad and wine. When I asked which bread would last
2-3 days, the bakers laughed and laughed, then answered, with Roman pride,
“None!” No preservatives, just yummy farina, salt, and yeast. Mmmmmm.
5/31
From our apartment, it’s a 10-minute walk to a 16th
century banker’s Villa Farnesina with surrounding rose gardens. Raphael’s
frescoes impress. Each face in these paintings tells a story. I was most
enthralled with another room decorated by Peruzzi with a frieze border
depicting mythological scenes. The mood is light, the figures seem alive.
After lunching at home and then sorting out the garbage for
recycle, I visited the nearby Roman Museum of Trastevere. Lucky me! The current
exhibit is “Cats and Mice in Art and Literature. “It included a wonderful
section of children’s books, many familiar to me. One was a lush poster for
“Puss n Boots.” It looked like Fred Marcellino’s depiction in the picture book
I championed for the 1986 Caldecott Award. The Roman poet, Trilussa is featured,
as is Felix the cat. My favorite room is the video display of Trilussa’s
collectible objects. While you wonder at the original, often whimsical,
sometime romantic nature of these, a slide suddenly appears on the wall behind
the objects. These appear in 4 different locations, intermittently. Each
explains an object or depicts its restoration with live action film and music.
Museums are truly experiencing a Golden Age.
(Oops! Did I mention the charming Italian cooing of the
doves above our balcony? I left the terrace for a minute and returned to wipe
some white stuff off Mike’s laptop.
Shhh.)
When I was falling asleep at the end of a fascinating day, I
realized it was still an hour before we met friends for dinner at 8:30. Soon my
body will acclimate. I gave myself a jumpstart by ordering porcinis and
homemade pasta.
6/1
After sorting the breakfast garbage, I boiled two eggs, and
then noticed it was 1pm. Mamma MIA! I left my bed at 9ish. After a restorative
shower and meal, I set out to follow a suggested walk from Garibaldi Bridge
along Viale Trastevere. Very plainly indicated on my map, I decided I would not
lose my way to the Trastevere Train Station. After walking about 30 minutes, I
asked how far away I was. “Lontano” (far!) was the reply. I found the #3 bus to
the station.
I was so proud of myself for speaking Italian, taking the
proper bus, buying our tickets for Venice and Milan, then taking #8 bus back to
Trastevere. One good aspect of my forever losing the main streets is that I
need to speak Italian to survive. The railroad ticket person was a woman my
age. Before the Recession, I wouldn’t have seen this. She was very patient,
which means she couldn’t work as a store clerk in Italy. Now for my
well-deserved lunch:
two celery sticks, one gelato (nocciola and strachiatella),
one glass of red wine. La dolce vita for sure.
6/2 Holiday in Rome
Early this morning we walked across the Garibaldi Bridge to
Victor Emmanuel Monument where the parade began with three planes flying
overhead, leaving wide marvelous smoke trails: red, green and white to match
the Italian tricolore flag. Children squealed with delight. Adults clapped. Politicians
made speeches. June 2 marks the beginning of the Italian Republic in 1946. The
brilliantly colored uniforms and fancy hats of the military brought
appreciative applause. The horses were strutting while a small dog wound his
way through their hooves. Dogs marched in the canine unit. Boats and bombs rode
the tanks. After the Italian forces came those from the USA and other
countries. My wish came true when the planes flew overhead once more to end the
celebration.
It was touching listening to the patriotic songs sung by a
few in the huge crowd. I also heard parents instructing their children to be
silent during taps in honor of the dead. Families around the world are more
alike than different. This is a holiday from work for most people, so the
parties continue through the weekend. We live in the party capitol. Streams of
folks cross the bridges to Trastevere to enjoy the bars at outside tables. Not
their fault I was trying to sleep at 3am!
6/3
We spotted the shady Café Ombre Rosse across from the Roman
Museum of Trastevere. We were tired, thirsty and hot. This café feels both
tucked away out of the fray and a perfect vantage spot for viewing a parade of
visitors to Trastevere. It’s cozy and cool, dry in the rain and shaded in the
sun. Eating outside is one of the joys of visiting Europe!
There is a saying that the first time you frequent a
restaurant, you are a customer, but the second time you are family. We tend to
return again and again to our favorite cafes. However, there is always someone
smoking where we want to sit, so we must find a new ‘home.’
It was old home week at the pizzeria today. A young woman
remarked, “I’m from Edmonds, too!” She read the luggage tag on my backpack.
Small world.
Oh, the sounds of a roman rooftop. I love sitting outside,
listening to the birds in the morning. In the evening, we heard singers, an
accordian player, silverware, and laughter during our al fresco dinner. I
served an omelet to make sure we had room for our gelato break. (coconut plus
chocolate plus leche)
Tonight we welcome our Swiss friends to share the apartment
for six days.
6/4
This is our hottest day yet. We ate rossetta rolls, cheese ,
salami and cherries for breakfast. I bought the cherries in Campo di Fiori for
5 Euros, twice the price I saw at the local market. Oh well. They are
delicious.
We walked to the Botanical Gardens, choosing shady paths
whenever possible. The large trees are beautiful, the rose garden past its
prime. When we entered the greenhouse, we realized we had been to this garden
in 2007. The medicinal plant area was worth seeing again. We stopped to rest
and enjoy a cantaloupe from the market.
Our friend, Rosemarie, asked her husband, Guy for the fishing
knife he carries. Oops! it was still in the luggage at the apartment. Never
fear, Guy wielded a credit card and sliced it right up! Sweet, cool and
refreshing.
After a light lunch of mystery brioche sandwiches (We asked
what was in the roll. The server said ‘meat.’ We asked what kind of meat. She
answered, “This is Italy!”
In fact, there was oily tuna inside ours- not Mike’s
favorite. Guy’s had no meat, just olives and peppers. Rosemarie ordered a slice
of pizza that she proclaimed
“delicious.”
Santa Maria of Trastevere Church was our next stop. The
mosaics and ceiling are gorgeous. A family was placing a note (probably a
prayer) on the statue of Anthony of Padua. We plan to attend Mass there
tomorrow.
Today’s gelato combo was nutella and cherry. Tasted
fantastic and melted quickly.
This gelateria uses only organic products.
After our siesta, we ate dinner at Ditirambo near Campo dei
Fiori. A capable wait staff and fine cuisine. Everything was delicious: Rabbit,
zucchini parmesano, a delicate chocolate dessert with pudding and thin layers
of phyllo-like dough. Delicious!
6/5
Guy brought us fresh pastries from the local bakery.
Croissant plus a puff pastry with vanilla crème and chocolate bits. We supplied
coffee, fresh apricots, strawberries and cherries for a wonderful breakfast on
the terrace. Little did we know the rest of the day would have rain showers.
Off to Santa Maria di Trastevere, one of the oldest churches
in Rome. The present building dates from the 16c. The mosaics are luminous. I
especially appreciate the scene with Jesus’ arm around his mother. It’s a
thrill to recognize some of the songs and to join in the prayers thanks to the
booklet they supply. A highlight was clapping by a group impressed with a nun’s
lively conducting. She laughed and smiled in recognition. A very welcoming
congregation that also ministers to local young drug addicts. After Mass we went
into the sacristy and admired the two mosaics.
We took the 280 bus to the new Maxxi Musuem of Art. It’s a
wild, soaring building both inside and outside. The design is swooping and
dizzying at times. The Pistoletto exhibit was provocative. He drew figures on
mirrors, leaving space for the viewer’s reflection. His piles of rags encircling
3 teapots remind us of the plight of the poor and hungry. We missed the concert
of whistling teapots at 5pm.
There is a long, narrow strip of mylar which reflects
interesting patterns on the wall.
The nearby exhibit contained architect Gerrit Rievald pieces
from the Utrecht Museum we visited in February! Mike and I constructed our own
Rievald style sculpture from huge foam blocks in primary colors. It was fun.
On the way home we asked a local shopkeeper where to buy
fresh tomatoes. She was an overachiever. We followed her directions to a tiny
shop with at least 8 kinds of fresh tomatoes. Thanks to Rosemarie, these
morphed into a delicious salad for our spaghetti dinner. I seem to remember
gaining weight in Italy under the spell of their delicious food. This trip
follows that pattern, but Carpe Diem! We walk up 4 flights of stairs to our
apartment. Hope this burns some calories.
Speaking of calories, I skipped gelato tonight in favor of
yummy Lindt Cherry liquor- filled chocolate sticks supplied by our Swiss
friends.
6/6
We walked through Piazza Farnese remembering the September
evening years ago when I ordered Porcini mushrooms and liked them so much, I
ordered another plate of them instead of the main course. They were fresh
grilled. With Italian bread and wine, I was a happy (Mike says in a
hallucinative state from the ‘rooms) camper.
Onto Campo dei Fiori , admiring the fountains and some of
the street art, loving all of the
eponymous flower stalls. We entered the beautiful church Santa Maria Sopra
Minerva. If you have seen the sky blue starry ceiling in the cathedral in
Montreal, you can imagine this one, too. Michelangelo’s bold statue of Christ,
Bernini’s brash depiction of Mary with angels, Filipino Lippi’s paintings plus
delicate rosetta windows all around the periphery.
Stopped at Gelataria della Palma again. Over 100 flavors!
Today I chose licorice and espresso coffee. One of my must-do’s in Rome is to
eat Carciofi all Guidia (smashed artichokes fried to a crisp). These are more
addictive than the potato chips they resemble. Yum. Served with fried zucchini
blossoms with melted mozzarella they make a fine lunch at Nonna Betta’s
Ristorante in the Jewish Quarter.
ALERT!!! Think before buying a Rome Pass. It lasts just 3
days, includes only 2 free admissions to government museums (i.e. not the Maxxi)
doesn’t cover temporary exhibits), and supplies bus or metro for those same 3
days. Bus fare is only one Euro. Check whether these are the museums you want
to see. Most of the Roman experience is walking the streets and getting lost.
You may never board a bus or Metro. It cost Euro 25 per person. Our events
guide was printed in January and covered events up to April 1, 2011. We were
determined to get back our investment, so did break even.
Tonight we eat at Enzo’s in Trastevere. Glad we have to
climb four floors worth of stone steps to reach our apartment. Italy = Food for
some of us.
Enzo’s tiramisu has no rivals. It’s so rich and cream. Maybe
more eggs? I shall experiment when I get home.
6/7
This day began with the Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, a
lovely setting for an impressive collection of pottery, funerary objects and
jewelry. It is so clearly explained, showing photographs of the archeological
sites where the artifacts were found. I knew of the Etruscan ruins in Fiesole
near Florence, but learned of the many sites throughout Italy where their
influence was felt. The beautiful designs show the interaction with Greek
culture. My favorites were life size figures of a man and wife for a
sarcophagus and a delicate turquoise bronze sieve.
We lunched in a shaded outdoor café at the Museum of Modern
Art, and then toured the museum. There was a wonderful sculpture called “La
Vecchia” by Madero Rosso. So great to
see another older person laughing ! I
also liked a painting called
“I Sogni.” (dreams) Both museums have fine gardens for
strolling, although the weather has been hot or rainy the last few days.
Our smiles disappeared with Mike’s iphone! He thinks it was
stolen as we boarded a crowded bus to take us home to Trastevere. This is our
third robbery in my beloved Italy! Those who really know Mike know that deep
inside, there is a silver lining to this tragedy. Will he be able to upgrade
his iphone? Carpe Diem.
Tonight Guy is cooking. It smells wonderful. We’re having
grilled eggplant slices with melted gruyere-like Italian cheese in between.
Fresh pineapple for dessert.
6/8
I am really relishing our meals on the terrace because we
will leave at the end of the week. Today we visited The Roman Museum at Villa
Venezia. The elegance of the paintings, statues, porcelain and hand-carved
furniture bely the fact this building served as Mussolini’s headquarters for
many years! My favorite painting was “The Lamentation of Jesus”. I cringe at
morbid religious art, but this gentle, loving scene shows a woman and a man
leaning over Christ’s body with such tender expressions.
Can’t get enough of the grilled artichokes. Rosemarie has
renamed me “Carciofa di Roma.” (Carciofo means artichoke) After lunch, we
walked to San Francisco di Ripa Church to see the Bernini statue “Beata
Ludovica Albertoni.” It seems to be closed for renovation.
Guy and Rosemarie return to Lausanne tomorrow. We are a
sympathetic quartet.
Sharing one little bathroom is a test of friendship.
Fortunately, we meet again in Zurich in a couple of weeks. We originally met in
the 70’s in Bethesda, MD where Mike and Guy shared some scientific research.
They kindly included us in a Swiss New Year’s Eve celebration at their home. It
is so cool that we hear them speaking Swiss-German, French, English, and
Italian with ease. Wow!
6/9
Our mission today is The Catacombs of San Callisto. For me,
it’s the second visit.
We followed
directions I retrieved from a pamphlet. Next time, I’ll check a map first! The
directions took us East of our destination before finally taking us to the
catacombs. No problem, just 14 conversations and 5 buses t o get there. One bus
was a mistake. I forget not every kind Italian knows the proper bus to the
catacombs. It was still worth the trip. At tour time, tourist are assigned to
priest who speak their lanuage-four groups in all. These priest live there and
lecture. We learned a wealthy couple gave their land to the church so Christians
could be buried there, outside the city limits. At that time, they believed it
was bad luck (ghosts). The donors are buried here in a room with frescoes. Most
of the 500,000 people were placed on shelves in the corridors. The altars and
inscriptions and lighting keep it from seeming spooky. Take a little walk
around the entrance and enjoy the rustic view. When leaving the grounds for the
return bus PAY ATTENTION before crossing the highway!!!! Cars are speeding by
and cannot see you.
After a celebratory gelato (cinnamon & nociolla), we
walked home from Circo Massimo and had dinner at home. I do this occasionally
so Mike is ready for the next suggestion of the next fabulous restaurant
recommendation.
6/10
Typically, I shop on the last day after scrutinizing the
possibilities. I walked into an artist’s atelier to admire the embroidered
canvases. Lots of messages here alerting us to the potential alienation of
technology. My favorite piece was a white cotton cloth with ancient ruins
represented by heavy black yarn. She studied archeological drawings for
accuracy. Only 200 Euros. Probably a fair price. I bought a small card for son
Mike’s birthday. (my budget)
We met our host, Paola Michelini when she retrieved a set of
keys. She invited us to contact here directly if we want to rent the place
again. That way, we avoid the Fori Realtor fee. She is an actress who travels
for her work.
Arrivederci a’ Trastevere. We had a wonderful 2 weeks in Rome.
We would love to help you plan your trips to any place we have been. Just ask.
I chose to stay in Trastevere for many reasons. Being the oldest section of
Rome, it oozes authenticity. They have kept the old buildings and cobblestones.
The narrow, winding streets beckon. Real Italian people actually live there. If
you wander out of the main tourist areas, you view everyday life full of shouting
and cooking smells and laughter and music. We could walk to most of the main
tourist sites and stroll along the Tiber river walk.
I chose a favorite restaurant for our final dinner here.
L’Hostaria Botticella on Vicolo Leopardo in Trastevere. The signora is bold and
charming. The food is fantastic. A specialty is carciofi di giudia (mentioned)
above. Sit outside and you may see a street performer. During our stay we saw:
flame throwers, magicians, a man with his performing mouse, a wonderful
funk-jazz quartet and two terrible guitarists.
6/11
This is a train day. Because we have much experience with
European trains, we know many things can go wrong. So, we arrive really early
and remember to check the large reader board within 20 minutes of departure.
The printed schedule, which we check upon arrival, is correct most of the time.
The native experienced traveler can wait until 10 minutes before and sprint to
the proper binario (gate). We need more time, so I wait at the gate on the
printed schedule and Mike waits at the digital screen. Because I am writing
this on a Eurostar Train with the vineyards and rolling hills out my window,
you know we made it! It’s annoying to pay extra for reservations, but it takes
the stress out of boarding the train and finding one’s seat. A very common
mistake is failing to board the exact car (carozza) on your ticket. It’s uncool
to drag your luggage and yourself through several cars en route to your
assigned seat. No one can pass you ! The train stops in Florence, Bologna and
Padua.
And then, there, as we emerge from the train station she is!
The Goddess Venetia, queen of carnivale. We face the Grand Canal where a water
taxi is waiting for us thanks to our friend Diego Ponzin. We are whisked to the
Rialto Bridge, and then told to take the second right to our hotel. Bravo to
the person who can navigate around Venice. Each person I ask replies that the
Hotel da Bruno is just ahead. Hah! There may not be a straight street in this
charming city .We finally see the hotel sign. Three majestic lavender Alium
flowers decorate the lobby. The clerk hands us each a cold orange juice drink.
Diego, a friend who is part of the WHO project Mike is working on, offered to
help us enjoy Venice, Meste, and Padua. We pack an overnight bag and board the
train to Terme Euganee Abano Montegrotto near Padua. Diego takes us outside Padua
(Padova) and pulls into a vineyard. We drive down a long road then spot a
lovely old villa belonging to Armando, a friend he’s known for many years.
Lemon trees border the expansive lawn. Hills surround us. A huge stone house and chapel stand sentry. Armando
welcomes us. Tables are set to accommodate the 100 guests at Diego’s 50th
birthday festa. And what a party it is! We knew Diego was an ophthalmologist
working with Mike on a project. We learn he also plays the bass in a fine band
favoring the Eagles and other American bands. We see a stack of books
containing his poems and essays. We learn there will be a raffle with proceeds
going to the Cornea foundation.
We meet his wife, Ann and his sons Tomasso and Alesandro.
Throughout the evening, we meet many more relatives and childhood friends.
Diego sits us at a table with those who speak some English.
Our feast includes: wonderful wines, batlava’ (fish),
seafood salad, local blue cheese, pecorino, goat cheese, etc. These are served
with flavored honey and Moscoto wine jelly. Then come the trays of mortadella,
salami, prosciutto and dried beef served with tomatoes and arugula. We are
slightly full by now, then notice bowls of steaming pasta, caponata with red
peppers (peperonata?) more bread and wine.
Finally, the desserts: pannacotta with raspberries, lemon
tarts, custard pies and cherries. Tine for a toast! Champagne flutes are
clinking. Some of us are groaning.
The band plays on. Children dance among and with the adults.
There are line dances, individual dancing, and couples dancing. The women of
all ages dress elegantly. How do they dance so gracefully in stilettos? Everyone
is swerving and smiling. Naturally, I’m taking advantage of having Mike
captive. We dance for a long time, then return for more dessert. About 1am,
Diego drives us to a county B&B, Covo Dell’Arimanno, in a stately stone
home with gardens. Their wooden furniture looks museum quality. Our bedroom is
decorated in blues and white. We marvel at the first shower we’ve seen in two
weeks. (Our Roman apartment shower leaked and was unsuable)
6/12
It is a privilege to visit our friends’ homes. We joined the
Ponzins in Meste for an alfresco lunch of pasta, salad, cantaloupe and local
bread shaped like a pretzel with a yummy cracker taste. Afterwards we visited
the Civic Museum with its sculpture garden. At our appointed time, we were
ushered into a room with about 20 others. We were required to sit there for
fifteen minutes so our presence (temperature?) would not have a deleterious
effect on the Giotto frescoes decorating the nearby chapel. It was impressive.
We thought of Ste. Chapelle in Paris that is a similar size. Each is glorious
in its own way. Giotto’s Crucifixion depicts an exhausted Christ- very moving.
After a nociolla & Aztec chocolate gelato, we’re fueled
to walk around Padua. Diego graduated from the university and told us about
some of their traditions. The recent (naked) graduates ran around in the
university courtyard chased by others. Some ran through the fountain nearby.
Some stood on the balcony, delivering bogus, mocking autobiographies. We saw
two posters featuring recent graduates. One had a cartoon image of himself, the
other had a photo. Their imagined biographies surrounded the images. Not all of
these rituals persist.
Padua is a medium-sized town. It has sophisticated shops and
venerable old buildings. Two huge piazzas provide room for strolling and food
markets and Sunday afternoon concerts. Galileo’s tower is a stately reminder of
his scientific contributions. We bid farewell and took the train back to
Venice, then the water taxi back to our hotel. We ate nearby. I loved my
Venetian style liver. (small pieces with sautéed onions and creamy, crusty
polenta). Mike liked his calzone. We were tired from train hopping and crashed.
6/13
My three wishes for Venice were:
1.
Revisit Titian’s Assumption of Mary painting at
Santa Maria dei Frari church.
2.
Have a Bellini where it originated at Harry’s
Bar.
3.
Ride a gondola a night.
Just strolling in this city is marvelous, though crowded.
The streets are so narrow, one can see the beautiful clothing, shoes, glass
objects and Carnivale masks in the store windows. We walked all morning. I did savor Titian’s
huge painting in the center of the church. I took time to admire the rich reds
and blues in this and nearby works of art.
We shared a dish of tagliolini with tiny bits of fresh
asparagus and scallops. This sharing left us room for gelato! (nociolla and
pistachio).
Then it RAINED! My #3 wish was in jeopardy. We waited and
waited. When it slowed to a sprinkle, we ventured out dodging puddles and
people with umbrellas.
We walked around the expensive neighborhoods, admiring
gardens and statues. I looked to the left and there was Hotel Flora where we
stayed years ago. We were relieved that it’s still charming and the inner
garden court still flourishing. Over the years, we‘ve recommended it to others.
Time for #2 wish. Mike found Harry’s Bar. We were scooted
upstairs, given a bowl of green olives and 2 tiny chicken croquettes.
Incredibly, each 4 ounce bellini was 15 Euros- about $23! This was no way to
get Mike in the mood for an extravagant gondola ride. I much prefer the Milestone
Bar in Whistler for my Bellinis, but I wanted to taste the original where it
was created in the 1930’s.
We waited until dark, then headed to a gondola station. I
was so excited! When we checked in, I asked the concierge to write the cost of
a gondola ride on a paper meant for my eyes only. Why make Mike suffer? I felt
armed with the hotel clerk’s information that 80 Euros for 35 minutes was
normal. We approached the boarding place and noticed a couple about our age. I
asked the gondolier the price and he said 120 Euros!!!! Oh no, I had been told
the daytime price! So…….I asked the other couple if they would split the cost.
The wife seemed interested, the husband no way. In fact, he started walking
away from the dock. Perfect move! The gondolier approached him and said he ‘d
take four people for 100 Euros. So the French couple joined us and we had a
splendid ride past the homes of : Cassanova, Marco Polo, and Vivaldi. Somehow,
I never imagined Marco Polo in a home? I had the same reaction to seeing the
Grimm Brothers home in Germany. It made them real! The lights on the old
buildings and the water are so romantic, although we almost forgot to kiss
under the Bridge of Sighs. Somewhere from my aging brain came the French word
for kissing. I yelled to the other couple that they must remember to ‘baissez.”
They complied. We finished a Piazza San Marco where 4 bands played. Have you
ever danced the Tango with a backpack on your back?
We strolled to a café for our final dinner in glamorous,
busy, unique Venezia.
My lasagna was made with very thin noodles layered with just
a little tomato sauce in between, then covered with meat sauce and sprinkled
with cheese. Delicious and not as heavy as my home version which is swimming
with mozzarella. Mike enjoyed his spaghetti although I’d vote for Guy and
Rosemarie’s version full or fresh basil and garlic.
Be sure to bring lots of change for the public restrooms.
Don’t expect them to smell like jasmine just because you paid $2.00 for a
visit!
6/14
Time to check out of Hotel da Bruno, buy a lunch for the
train, and head to Milan.
We bought a small print of a Venetian gondola at night as a
souvenir of our romantic ride. Rolling our luggage with backpacks on our sweaty
backs, we dive through the crowds and shove our way to the water taxi station,
then onto a train. It was interesting visiting with the young man (18-22yrs??)
across from us while Mike worked on his WHO project on the laptop. He is Dutch,
on his way to England to work as an actor. He spent 4 months living with his
brother in France and will stay with his sister in Chadwick. We discussed
Obama’s record, how fantastic French food is, storytelling, and finding work
you love to do. I wished him well.
Before dinner, we strolled to the Piazza di Duomo. Wow!!!!
The golden evening light made this delicate, filigreed majestic church glow.
They have cleaned the front of the church and uncovered the nuanced colors of
the marble: pale green and warm coral. I now understand why some believe this
is the most beautiful cathedral in the world.
The highlight of my lunch was a delicate puff pastry with
chocolate in the center.
My Brie, prosciutto, lettuce and tomato panino was tasty,
but a bit dry. Because we buy our water, we ration it. We drink lots of it at
breakfast in the hotel.
Arriving at the magnificent Milano Centrale train station is
a harbinger of the scale of Milano. Rome’s Termini station pales in comparison.
There are immense pillars, beautiful stone and floors.
Our cabdriver was a cheery fellow giving us a fine welcome
to this large, commercial city. The Hotel Canada is near the University of
Milan. Like the Hotel da Bruno, is well-located, clean, reasonably priced and
with efficient, friendly staff. We enjoyed the Manhattan Restaurant nearby. My Risotto
di Milano was gooey with broth and cheese and full of saffron. I loved it. Mike
had veal scallopini smothered in heavy cream and topped with pungent capers as
a garnish. I ate so much of the bread, I had to skip the daily gelato!
When we returned, we sang “Happy Birthday” in Italian via a
phone call to our oldest grandchild who is 18 today!
6/15
Like the little girl after me, I walked into the buffet
breakfast room and dove for the chocolate decadence. I then built my meal
around it, adding fruit ambrosia, scrambled eggs, and hot chocolate. I decided
not to do nutella this time!
Fueled and ready to go, we walked to Foro Napoleone to catch
a tour bus. Our guide was excellent, her English understandable. We drove past
some fashionable shops (seems to be several Armani stores) and nearby elegant
apartment buildings. We toured La Scala Opera House with its museum of
costumes, posters, portraits, programs and playing cards. Why the cards? Our
guide explained that the Milanese loved cards, so continued playing right
through the opera if they were bored. I thought of x-box.
Back to the Duomo and Galleria of Victor Emanuale II. Now
this is a toney shopping environment. The delicate glass roof, the lovely
mosaic floors with motifs from the four main cities of Italy, the corner
paintings depicting 4 continents. Our eyes stay on the intense reds and blues
of the many windows at the front of the church. Amazing! The guide explained
that the Duomo’s original stained glass windows were destroyed from the nearby
bombing during WWII. What we saw were paintings looking like stained glass and
only visible from the inside of the church. Mike and I took an elevator to the
roof to view Milan and the statues atop the towering, delicate spires. We
climbed around enjoying a closeup of the statues. The building took so many
years that it reflects different artists and styles.
We walked in the courtyards of Castello Sforesco. The soft
sienna colors of the roof tiles, borders, and walls are gorgeous. Later in the
day, we strolled in the nearby gardens of Parco Sempione. The final stop on our
tour was the refectory of Santa Maria delle Grazie, for here we viewed Leonardo
da Vinci’s “Last Supper.” There was a reverent silence as each tour member
related to this compelling painting. The perspective is masterful and was
inventive at that time. The expressions tell a story. One can guess how each
apostle felt at the moment when he learned “One of them would betray Him.”
Many Milanese are stylishly dressed in their stiletto heels,
tiny skirts and abstract print dresses. Sandals with ankle straps are common
here as in the states this year. This is conscious dressing, not throwing
something on. Some very bold fashion plays here. I saw some capris for $7,000! It’s fascinating to see the parade of stylish
ensembles. There are many more tall Italians here in the north. The men wear
dark suits or dark jeans, a white starched shirt, and moccasin-like loafers.
Eye candy all around!
Paolo Rebulla, Director of the Blood Bank and stem cell
scientist, gave us a walking tour of the oldest buildings on the University of
Milan campus where he works. Stately, yet warm brick with simple designs. He
drove us to the Garibaldi Street area where we ordered the specialty, “Bici
& Pepe.” consisting of al dente coarse pasta with grated pecorino and black
pepper. A pear and chocolate tart provided a luscious finale. Over dinner, we
discovered that he, like Mike, is in more than one music group. He plays the
keyboard, piano and trumpet plus is composing music as well! Music and medicine
must have an affinity for one another. Our Paduan host, Diego, has his own
band. We walked through “The Scene”
young people sipping wine and visiting outside late at night. (late for me!)
Along the way, we admired a simple, beautiful church first built in the 4th
century!
6/16
The Duomo Piazza is an immense gathering place. This morning
they were shooting a movie. Yesterday, there was a demonstration. The Novocento
Museum faces the piazza and is designed to take full advantage of the view of
the old cathedral. There are two cubical stone buildings with wonderful glass
windows. Like many new museums, the building and the collection reinforce each
other. Going up the escalator, you see a ceiling with small streaks of color-
almost like confetti. There are huge orbs of tinted green glass ‘framing’ the
views of the piazza. 20th century art is displayed in roomy areas.
One room features an eclectic mix of different decades.
I highly recommend this museum!
After cruising along Montenapoleone Street and admiring the
amazing and costly merchandise, we had an alfresco lunch in Santa Carola
piazza. Mike and I shared a vegetarian pizza to justify lusting after the full-color
hot caramel and fudge sundae shown on the menu. Only later did the waiter
announce this dessert was not available. He did welcome us with a small glass
of Prosecco and left us some cookies as a consolation prize.
After this yummy lunch, we walked to Poldi Pezzoli Museum
which two of our friends highly recommended. I agree it is special. From the
first floor room designed to house a full collection of armor to the immense
tapestry/rug to the paintings and sculptures upstairs, it is worth spending
some time listening to the excellent taped commentary and viewing the treasures.
Between this celebration of early
Italian art and the modern art of the Novecento, we began to appreciate the
contributions of Italian artists less
known to us.
On the hot and humid trail back to our hotel, we stopped for
gelato. A signora recommended butter pecan, so I mixed this with my favorite
nociolla.
After a rest, we set out for Navigli, the canal district of
Milano. They plan to uncover many more
of the canals in the near future. This area has a beatnik air. (We from the ‘60’s, should know!) There are
artists, musicians and coffee houses galore. We chose a café near the street
musicians, but alas! The considerable rain scared the musicians and put us into
survival mode under our café umbrellas. You wouldn’t have left in a torrent if
you’d ordered Tiramisu, would you? We waited and soaked and ate, then headed
back to our Hotel Canada.
6/17
After our fine hotel breakfast, we went in search of our
Milanese friend’s favorite breakfast treat: Cannoncini at Panarellos bakery.
They are small, coiled puff pastries filled with yummy light custard.
We checked out of the hotel and took a cab to Milano’s grand
Central Train Station. Although many dismiss the architecture as Mussolini
inspired, I rather liked the grandeur. We arrived in Como and were welcomed by
the fabulous Deirdre Fehily. She drove us to the bank, the grocery, and to
Torno . Then, in the heavy rainfall,she helped us haul our luggage and
groceries down many a stone step to our charming apartment near the lake.
Donkeys needed to climb this steep hill, so the rise of the stairs is narrow, accommodating
roller luggage as well. There are about 1200 people in Torno. There is one
restaurant (in the hotel) and one pizzeria. No one is eager to collect payment.
They trust us! We like it here!
We settled into our efficiency apartment. Since green is my
favorite color, I am happily ensconced in the Verde apartment here. I was eager
to try a salad with the world’s most beautiful lettuce. It looks like a giant
sunflower with green out leaves and light yellow inner leaves. Later in the
week I plan to copy Guy and Rosemarie’s dishes served in our Rome apartment. The
Mediterranean diet requires: garlic, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, fresh bread,
butter, fresh basil, tomatoes, wine, capers, cheese, olives, and eggplant; so
this is what we bought at the supermarket.
It’s 8 in the evening. The children’s voices, heard clearly
one hour ago, have faded into their apartments. There must be an informal
curfew when the weather is so rainy? Dinner is still an hour away, I suspect. We
hear the sea outside our door. The ferry dock is just one half blocks away. The
surrounding mountains are sprinkled with homes, reminding us of CinqueTerrae.
6/18
Angel Deirdre picked us up this morning and found the bus
stop for our trip to visit Paolo and Ann Grossi in Varese. The hour’s trip took
us through town centers, by schools, train stations, and countryside. As usual,
fellow bus passengers helped us find our stop. Oh, the kindness of
strangers! The Grossi’s drove us through lush forests up the
mountains of Varese. We took a short walk in the rain through the narrow
streets of the village on top. We saw the 12th chapel in a
traditional pilgrimage path.
In a downpour, we dashed into a countryside villa, The IL
Gestore Ristorante
(ristorantegestore.it) The Signora greeted us with Prosecco
and little dishes of pretty appetizers. My favorite was artichoke and pancetta.
I spotted a big copper bowl FULL of porcini mushrooms (from Spain). Since I
love them, I ordered porcini and grilled scallops with dried tomatoes for the
antipasto and porcini and turbot for the second course.! The bread tasted just
like that, which caused me to gain 26 lbs the year I lived in Florence, but
‘Carpe Diem’ is my motto. When she brought out the dessert cart of: poached
fruit, tiramisu, strawberry torte, chocolate flourless cake, 3-chocolate
mousse, figs in wine, etc. I decided the usually wise dictum to stop eating
when satisfied did not apply here. Cozy and dry with the rain pounding on the
canvas roof of the lovely terrace, we admired the garden and sipped Limoncello.
When we returned to Torno, we joined the villagers for Mass
in Chiesa Tecla where everyone sang and everyone sang in tune. I understood
much of the priests, slow, clear sermon.
The village square was bustling with preparations for an annual festival
featuring grilled sardines. We could smell the French fries cooking, but knew
we needed to be spectators. When the band started, we joined some wonderful
dancers enjoying the chanteuse first in a green, then blue, then red dress.
6/19
The 90 minute ferry ride from our town of Torno to Lenno is
exquisite. Blue sky, hillside villages, even some snow in the mountains. We
passed by some of the impressive villas bordering the lake. Some allow visitors
inside, but most allow tourists to pay to stroll the gardens and see the views.
We met Deirdre as we disembarked and enjoyed a lunch with a view of their
bright flowers and blue lake. Afterwards, we hiked up the hill, seeing many
homes with lovely views and gardens.
We watched, mesmerized by the circular path of a cordless lawn mower ‘robot.’
At the top, as in Varese, there are 14 little
shrines/chapels portraying the mysteries of the rosary. Although showing their
age, the statues inside attest to the people’s devotion. At the Santuario della Madonna dei Soccoso, groups of teens
were outside singing John Denver songs! We passed by the 17th
century Villa Balbianello on our way back to Lenno town, then rode back to Como
and a fine dinner at Deirdre and Ray’s home. Their garden is poetic! Their
vegetarian cuisine delicious. Sliced fennel, olive oil, cherry tomatoes ,a skim
of heavy cream, and some fresh herb; then exotic balls of risotto with
mozzarella centers, breaded and lightly fried in sunflower oil. Fresh berries
and homemade pannacota to finish.
6/20
This is a workday for Mike and Deirdre. They are preparing
for their upcoming scientific meeting in Geneva. While they talked, it was fun
hanging our wash in their artful garden. It’s been a long time since our
clothes have smelled of sunshine!
En route back to Torno, Deirdre took us to Gelataria
Fragola. She had told me about their pink grapefruit gelato. I agree with her
that it’s bursting with flavor. Poor us, we had to buy a small tub of gelato in
order to transport and save it until after dinner. So, we added nociolla and
cioccolata to the pink grapefruit. This is one of the silkiest I’ve ever
tasted. You know I am now on a par with the professional wine tasters due to my
gelato due diligence?
6/21
Our cab driver in Rome emphasized Bellagio as a must-see
destination on Lake Como. Before we caught the boat, I poured the leftover
(liquified) gelato into a glass and drank it! Not bad. I also ate a reasonable
breakfast of cereal and banana. The 2-hour boat trip to Bellagio was sunny and
splendid. Villa del Balbianello with its sienna buildings and gardens is
gorgeous. When they built the towns along the lake, they did not interfere with the landscape by
flattening land near the water. Rather, they built homes right into the
mountainside. In winter, it must be challenging?
Tremezzo has a fabulous ivy covered hotel plus Villa
Carlotta. We viewed the gardens from the boat.
Bellagio is beautiful! I thought of Santorini, St. Paul de
Vence, and Portofino. However, we needed a bathroom. It was modern and nearby.
Unfortunately, the change machine was out of order! Mike cleverly suggested we use our 1euro to
enter, then share the facility. It was automated. Once you pay, the door opens and you have 15 minutes , free water, soap
and hand dryer.Oh, technology! We walked to Villa Melzi, enjoying the gardens,
museum and chapel. Typically, we could not tour the villa, just the lovely
gardens. The outside sculptures were-uh-crude. Those inside the chapel were
more skillfully rendered, This villa belonged to Napoleon’s vice president. Seeking
lunch al fresco, we climbed the steps up the hill shops and enjoyed paninis. We
took the ferry to Mennagio, described, aptly, as ‘a quaint village.” Too bad
the ferry schedule to our adorable little Torno required us to leave soon after arrival. We did enjoy a sour
apple + nociolla gelato before catching the boat to Torno and our cozy
apartment.
6/22
This is our last day in Torno, so we walked up the steep
hill to Monte Piatto. I mean hiked. I mean hiked in the rain! The view from the
top was hazy. The bugs were many. Still, the four hours of exercise gave us a
perfect excuse for a Medium sized mango/peach & nociola gelato.
Nearby 12th century San Giovanni Church was open, but not lit. I
could not locate the beautiful statue of the Madonna del Pozzo. Mike’s flash
picture showed us the lovely altar and surrounding art. Behind the church is an
impressive cemetery. Colorful flowers decorate most tombs and urns. The white
marble staircase lends a grandeur to this respectful resting place.
Tonight I try to recreate Guy’s yummy grilled eggplant with
melting cheese. We need to use up our groceries by tomorrow noon. Our Como
friends, Deirdre and Ray will house us until we leave for Zurich on the 27th.
They will soon run a vegetarian restaurant in Como. Our hosts at Tornoalago are
also vegetarians. We will introduce them to Ray when he picks us up. It can be
a small world.
Lake Como has attracted the plain and the glamorous for
centuries. Its tall mountains rise up from the lake making many a steep climb
home. One section of mountains reminds me of Oahu with its green, green hills
and ‘folds’ in between. The housing ranges from mountain stone cabins to
lakeside villas. The view looking down on the steep neighborhoods and orange
tile roofs to the lake is riveting. Most towns can be accessed by paved roads
restricted to residents’ use. We climbed the narrow stairs from the water up
1200 ft to MontePiatto. A few villages
depend on the funiculars. In winter, it must be challenging and scenic.
Italians drive fast and (thank God) with small cars and
large skill sets. Mirrors show what’s around the next bend. It is not a
pedestrian paradise with few shoulders and sidewalks. Better to befriend an
Italian with a motorbike? We walked past our Tornoalago host who was driving up
these narrow stone steps. Amazing.
6/23
We bid goodbye to our hosts at Tornoalago and loaded the 4
wheel drive small Fiat with our luggage and had a thrilling ride up the steep
stone steps to the main road.
We’re now at our friends Ray and Deirdre’s home south of
Como. Ray welcomed us with a lunch of avocados, tomatoes and smoked buffalo
mozzarella, bread and wine. Later, I
toured Como’s Duomo. I was most intrigued by a huge banner carried in
processions outdoors. It was a combination of fabric and painting on canvas and
was from the 15th century. Only a few of these remain because they
were carried and handled through many years. Each artwork had an information
card in several languages. This is so helpful!
After stopping for a
Carmelo and chocolate gelato, I strolled along the lovely promenade to Villa
Olmo. It’s named for the elm tree that Pliny the Younger planted there. Pretty
flowers line the path that is made of gray and white stones. Signs indicate
which dignitaries and stars visited the villas along the lake. Villa Olmo is an
artwork in itself with ceiling paintings and fine ornamental plaster and stone.
The Belle Epoque exhibition of 100 works was worth seeing. Lavishly dressed
women with an attitude of confidence and satisfaction.
It is a treat to sit outside or near an open door and hear
the birds in Deirdre’s and Ray’s garden. They have a Dove house. There are
groupings of plants to discover
(i.e. succulents). I will never take the time to create a
large garden like this one, but
I am very glad they have!
6/24
Mike and I explored Como today. After admiring the soft,
lovely tones of the marble façade of the impressive Duomo next dor, we peaked
into Chiesa San Giacomo and discovered a temporary exhibit of a manger scene
with lifesize wooden figures.
The roundness and soothing colors of this 11th
century church make it a favorite of mine. We then said ‘Buon Giorno’ to the
statue of local star, Volta who invented the battery. We even ate lunch in a
piazza named after him.
After lunch we walked along Lake Como to the Funicular
Station. Unfortunately, we saw a sign that it was closed and could not take us
up to the hilltop village of Brunate. We retraced my steps from yesterday so
Mike could see the promenade and Villa Olmo. Then it was gelateria time. It was
so hot, I ordered lemon plus raspberry- very refreshing. We followed our hosts’
directions and took a commuter train to their neighborhood. Almost feeling like
natives as we walk down the street to their home.
I had planned to do two loads of wash this evening, until
the electricity went out. It’s a perfect temperature now, so hanging the
clothes in the garden is not such hard work. Perhaps the most useful items I
pack are my flashlight and some Kleenex?
6/25
A perfect day on Lake Orta. Sunshine as we drove south
towards Milan, sunshine as we walked along the lake, sunshine brightening our
motorboat ride from Orta San Giulio to the nearby island. This is an enchanting
medieval town. You know the type. Every street has charmingly weathered stone
with bursts of bright flowers. Hydrangeas in deep blue and purple enliven the
gray. The old stone rooves have stories to tell.
Eighty nuns live in a large home on the island. They have
sprinkled the town streets with signs in four languages. Each gives wisdom
about the virtue and fruits of silence. The old church frescoes are lovingly
restored. Such gentle, expressive faces on the saints portrayed. No fire and
brimstone here. Well….there is that depiction of a saint being stoned to death,
but he looks calm. The heavy stone pulpit features strong symbols for the four
who wrote the gospels: An angel, an ox, a lion and an eagle. After our lunch,
we walked through the town with its little shops and narrow streets. We stopped
for a gelato, of course. (coffee and sotto
bosco)
Along the lake are short wooden decks. Sunbathers and
swimmers were enjoying them on this weekend day. We passed a family with their
picnic lunch in the shade of the trees. Right across from where we parked there
is a huge exotic building. I thought it looked like Greek Orthodox, others
guessed it was Turkish. Pink stones decorated the façade making it perfectly
romantic. There was a wedding reception in the garden.
Once again, Deirdre cooked us a fantastic vegetarian meal. A
beautiful spinach torte, tossed green salad with Baba au Rhum for dessert. We
are so spoiled!
6/26
The Basilica San Vicento di Galliano is perched on a hill.
It is a small stone structure with a baptistery nearby. There are stone markers
explaining the worship of other deities before this 11th century
church was built. I thought this a nice, ecumenical feature. Inside the church are
frescoes in subtle hues. The altar is elevated, reminding me of how churches
used to be arranged. One window is cut out of the rock in the shape of a simple
cross. The entire mass is printed in a booklet, so we could join in with the
Italian songs and prayers. I understood most of the sermon. The weeks in Italy
have helped me understand spoken Italian. I can say quite a bit in simple
vocabulary, but struggle when they speed up.
We sat at a bar watching the locals sip bright pink prosecco
drinks. It was a bit early for me. We drove back to Como where Deirdre and Mike
worked on their Project Notify for next week’s meeting in Geneva. To celebrate
the completion of a draft, we walked around downtown, stopping for nociola,
pink grapefruit, and straciatella gelato to take home for tonight’s dinner.
What a grand finale of a dinner it was! Deirdre prepared pasta and porcini
mushroom. The height of indulgence having two of my passions: gelato and
porcini in one meal.
We packed our shrinking bags (How do they get smaller as the
trip progresses?)
6/27
Breakfast outdoors in the lovely garden, listening to the
birds and watching the doves bully the smaller birds for the birdseed. We
entered the Lugano train station with some apprehension. Our assignment was to
activate the Swiss Rail pass IN SWITZERLAND AT A TRAIN STATION WINDOW NOT BY
THE CONDUCTOR. ONLY THE STATION OFFICIAL MAY WRITE THE FIRST MARK ON THIS
PRECIOUS DOCUMENT. ONLY THEN BUT BEFORE THE CONDUCTOR ASKS FOR OUR TICKETS MAY
WE WRITE TODAY’S DATE. I breathed a sigh
of relief when we passed muster.
I would also like to thank the Swiss for providing ramps to
the train tracks so Mike does not have to carry two 22” suitcases and his
backpack(which weighs a ton).
Oh, the stunning scenery in Switzerland! Lake Lucerne,
waterfalls, old stone farmhouses and the Alps with a touch of snow on top. I
dreamt of this scene ever since I read the book Heidi as a child.
We jumped into a cab outside the Zurich main station. He
loaded our luggage into the trunk. We asked for Hotel Krone. He smiled and said
it was just a few meters away. Such honesty! We were about to start walking
when I got a text from our Swiss friends saying they were at the train station
to meet us! We enjoyed a fresh fish lunch together, then checked into our
hotel. It’s right on the Limmat River which feeds into Lake Zurich.
To beat the heat, we took a boat around Lake Zurich. We have
a Swiss Rail Pass, so want to fit in lots of ‘free’ transportation on our
travel days. We saw Wagner’s neighborhood and at least twenty swans swimming
together. Then we strolled down the famous shopping street, Bahnhof Strausse.
Banks and expensive shops line this street. There are beautiful church spires
all around plus Europe’s largest clock face on one tower. At Kantori’s Café, we
ate Zurich’s specialty-tender veal with mushrooms in white wine and cream sauce
served with a whopping portion of crusty yummy hash browns.
As we walked I could well imagine why apartments here are so
difficult to find. They tend to stay in families, like in New York. In Zurich,
the old buildings are restored, not leveled. The result is enchanting. It’s a
good idea to have peripheral vision, even when enchanted, for bicycles zip by
and seldom brake for pedestrians. We hear the bells at eleven o’clock each day.
Quite a chorus as there are many churches.!
6/28
We’ve been on the road so long, we’re running out of
supplies. Did you know hand lotion can double for hair conditioner? That one
can wash clothes with shampoo?
Alongside the river is “The Grande Café”. We sat outside
sipping fresh sweet orange juice and munching apple tarts and custard filled
puff pastry. Looking in the bakery and chocolate store windows is a delight.
They are so fancy. Chocolate in every shape and form. Delicate cupcakes and
richly festooned cakes, Oh my!
The artwork in three downtown churches is awesome!
Franmunster Church is understated stone inside. It was built in the 9th
c. by a German emperor for his two daughters to use as a nunnery. In 1970, Marc
Chagall created four tall gorgeous stained glass windows. In 1978, he added an
ice blue medallion or rosette window.
I know he’s famous, but these works spoke to me as none of
his others did. Alfred Giacometti’s
uncle, Augustus, has vividly colored modern stained glass windows in this
church and in The Water Church nearby . Felix and Regula died as martyrs at
this site, which inspired the building of the church. Legend says they carried
their heads up the hill to the third church,
Gross-Munster, built in the 11thc. Don’t miss any of these
churches! Sigmor Polke created exquisite windows out of thinly sliced
translucent agates. The patterns resemble those seen through a kaleidoscope. In
the lower level there was the first public library (1632), so now I can claim
this whole trip as a deduction? There is also a compelling statue of
Charlemagne for it is said he built the first church in Zurich on this site.
For lunch, we had a delicious combo of crunchy hash brown
potatoes, thinly sliced zucchini and carrots, and garlic. This followed cool
cucumber soup. Fueled, we set out for the Kunsthaus art museum. The
contemporary Swiss artist, Franz Gertsch was featured. His huge four seasons
paintings were the centerpiece of the exhibit, but his woodcut portrait of a
young woman named ‘Johanna’ is haunting as her lovely blue eyes follow us
across the room. We walked through many other galleries filled with notable
artists’ works. It deserves more than
one afternoon’s scrutiny.
For dinner, we went to Restaurant Bouschonzli by the river Limmat. It was a perfect summer
evening with a live band and dance floor. Dancing in our practical rubber
hiking sandals is a challenge! We saw so many excellent dancers! One woman took
her walker out to the dance floor and danced. I like her attitude!
So, now we pack again and head to Davos on the train.
6/29
Even though thunder showers were predicted, we only had a
few minutes of rain on our trip to the Alpine Hotel Schatzalp in Davos. The
views from the upper level train windows were fantastic. First the large
expanse of Lake Geneva, then green valleys and hills with smatterings of small
farms and villages. A thrill for me was
passing through towns mentioned in
Spyrii’s Heidi – Sargans and Bab Ragaz.
We ate scrumptious fresh caprese sandwiches and an apple in
a small park when we arrived in Davos. Ernst, Ludwig Kirchner spent the last
part of his life there, partly getting treatment at our Hotel Schatzalp which
was founded as a sanitorium in 1900. The small museum in his honor is a
pleasure to visit. My favorite painting was of three old women. Their years of
experience are reflected in their eyes! His mountainscapes are daring and
colorful. I thought of the Canadian artist, Emily Carr and her wide swaths of
white and green. Reading about Kirchner’s difficult life made me wonder why
artists must struggle so? At one point, in the 1930’s, his work was described
as ‘degenerate’ because he was a Jew. He suffered mental breakdowns and took
his own life, leaving us with his poignant paintings and photographs.
A funicular owned by Hotel Schatzalp took us up the mountain
from the town of Davos. The large wooden building remains much as it was in
1900. It is done in arts and crafts style with some art deco touches. Our room
has a deep balcony looking out on their stunning English style garden extending
into the meadows with herds of lupines and white flowers! Each plant is labeled
for aficionados. The balcony has high wooden sides, perhaps giving privacy to
each guetst. There are two chaise lounges and a table and chair. We walked around the garden, then sat under
the porch roof and sipped Aperol Spritzes. We had seen the Italians with this
bright orange Prosecco drink and were curious. It’s purported to be low in
alcohol, but we all caught the giggles after a few sips. Our word play in
French, Swiss German, English and Italian seemed really funny at the time. We discussed the word ‘mirepoix’ which
appeared on the dinner menu. It went from an academic discussion to a fanciful
imaginative, silly one.
Dinner is included in the hotel fee. What a dinner it was!
Linen tablecloths, silver and crystal in a large dining room with a playful art
glass window in my view. The fixed menu included sword fish carpaccio, wine
soup with chervil gnocchi, tender lamb with potatoes and chocolate cake with
blackberry cream. The small squares of olive bread were irresistible. What
freedom to know the drinking water here is pure spring water . No more hauling
bottled water to our room. The mirepoix which are pureed vegetables, appeared
to be cubed potatoes? Who knows? Hope we
hike tomorrow! It was raining this evening.
6/30
Upon awakening, I curl up into a fluffy bathrobe, then walk
on heated tiles into the bathroom, grab my heated towel and have a shower. I’m
ready for the day ahead.
Somehow rain follows us on every hike lately. We followed
the paths up and around the mountain near the hotel. It is a wildflower
wonderland! Thomas Mann, who wrote Magic Mountain while in Davos, has a
little garden in his name. One meadow was misty in the rain, yet ignited by the
bright yellow flowers scattered through it. Another meadow was more luscious to
the eyes than an Impressionist painting with its blend of blue and yellow and
red and white flowers, each a different variety. There are countless Alpine
rhododendrons and lupines. Delicate little wild orchids border the path. We
hear cow bells. How perfect for Switzerland. I swoon with pleasure at being in
Heidi land. Then we discover cow pies, really big ones! We eventually meet the
perpetrators- large blond cows with velvety brown eyes. Our friends were able
to shoo her off the path in Swiss German. Tall evergreens and short slugs
reminded us of Seattle. A ways further, a sign warns us not to touch the calves
as people have been harmed by protective adult cows. Sure enough, we look ahead
and see our path blocked by a cow surrounded by calves. We climb into the tall
wet grass (yuck) to avoid them. Cold streams cascade down the mountain.
By this time, our socks our wet and our stomachs hungry. How
will we descend back to our hotel? We take a steep and slippery trail down to
Davos then a funicular back up for warm barley soup. Minute pieces of carrot
and celery and dried ham gave it an extra tasty punch.
Now that we’ve finished our 5 hour mountain trek, the sun
comes out! Mike and I sit on the veranda and poke our faces at the sun. We have
a view of the nearby flowers and the distant green valley of Davos town. The
waiter has a view of Mike and I dozing off intermittently just like old people
do.
I loved sitting out on our sunny balcony with the camelhair
blanket keeping me warm just as the sanitorium’s guest must have snuggled one
hundred years ago.
The mountain air is salubrious. The scenery sublime!
Cheese fondue, green salad, and tiramisu for our final
dinner at this marvelous resort. We ate at the aptly named Panorama Restaurant.
Tomorrow we take a series of buses and a train to Zermatt.
July 1
We said farewell to Hotel Schatzalp at 8:30. Arrived at the
funicular at 8:35. Our tickets let us through the turnstile, but the door to
the funicular was locked shut. We then noticed a sign assuring us that the door
would open automatically. Since we needed to catch the 8:40 in order to catch
the first bus in order to catch the second bus in order to catch the third bus
in order to catch the train; we were worried. At 8:43 the door opens and we
sailed down the mountain to Davos. All the buses were on time, so we boarded
the red and ice blue Glacier Express train to Wermatt. One of the buses sounded
a charming 3-tone whistle before turning a blind corner in the mountains. The
buses went through towns affording us a view of daily life.
I spotted a bright red sleigh parked next to a barn. We
watched a man sweep the sidewalk clean with a broom. The happy geraniums look
terrific set against the dark stained wood of the balconies. Apricot trees and
vineyards are in abundance.
The Glacial Express took us along the Rhine and then along
the Rhone River. It would be hard to imagine a more beautiful journey! The
railcar was replete with
tall ,wide windows giving us a panoramic view on a blue-sky
day. We passed a Jesuit high school that was once a monastery. The building
looks Russian or Greek with its onion-shaped tower. As we admired the tall
(6643 ft) mountains, we listened to a taped commentary explaining where we were
on the trip, a little history, etc. It was very helpful. For 1,000 years St.
Bernard dogs have helped the monks rescue people.
The avalanche fences are needed above the tree line. In 1991
there was a serious landslide in this Valais region. Summit crosses dot the
way. Hiking trails and ski runs do, too. There are houses of sod, of stone, of
wood and mostly of a combination of materials. Some have stone disks to prevent
the mice from eating the grain stored below the house.The longest tunnel in the
world is under construction in this area. I think it will be 67 kilometers
long.
The waitress gently places ice blue linen placemats and
napkins plus silverware and glasses at our center table on the train. They
serve roast pork in plum sauce with spaetzle. Now this is a ‘view’ restaurant!
The regional wines are tasty. Only about 1-2% of Swiss wine is exported which
is why we never see it in the states. Long ago the Celts gave away free wine
and bread 3 times a week. Delicious Raclette (special cheese scraped onto a
plate and eaten with potatoes and pickles) originated in the Valais.
Twenty to thirty-four year old Swiss men are required to
serve in the military. About 5% of the 200,000 Swiss Army are volunteers. We
saw some WWII bunkers in the distant slopes. The Swiss Guard began in the
Valais. The guards watch over the Pope when he leaves the Vatican.
Locals and tourists wave at the Glacier Express as it rolls
by. We feel indulged. We see huge glaciers, but learn they are melting due to
climate change. We scanned the mountains for long-haired black mountain goats,
but saw none.
After several hours, we arrived in Zermatt which feels just
like the U.S. ski towns modeled after Swiss villages! One little difference is
THE MATTERHORN mountain jutting out and lording it over the surrounding area.
3,500 people try to climb it each year and only half of these succeed. This is
mostly due to weather.
We walked around town and ate at a traditional restaurant. I
had Cheese Bread which is like it sounds: dense wheat bread , soaked in wine
then drenched in melted cheese, served with pickles, tomato and onions. Mike
had bratwurst and fantastic hash browns with little pieces of bacon. We ate
chocolate crepes for dessert then walked back to Hotel Alpina for a good
night’s rest.
7/2
The next morning we sampled local cheese (strong, but tasty)
and bread (dense, dark, tasty) for our breakfast at Hotel Alpina, a quiet
little hotel with gardens just outside our room. The hosts, two sisters, are so
warm and friendly. The location is handy, yet quiet. Unlike many ski towns,
Zermatt ‘s streets empty by 10ish. (into the bars?)
With Guy as our stalwart guide, we set out for another 4
hour hike in the mountains. The Matterhorn is so compelling, it’s natural to
ignore the green meadows, wild flowers, ponderosa pines and flower bedecked
houses. We ate apple strudel with vanilla cream as a snack, then had a proper
lunch in town upon our descent. Most people greeted us as we passed them on the
hiking trails. “ Bonjour”, “Morgan”, etc. A favorite greeting in this region is
‘Allegra” We chatted with some Americans from Seattle.
The train from Zermatt to Lausanne was scenic, at least what
I could see through my closed eyelids. Seems I was a bit tired from hiking, but
hate to admit it! We passed the castle at Chillon plus many vineyards and
orchards in the valley. What a gorgeous sight when the train runs along
beautiful blue Lake Geneva. Arriving at Rosemarie and Guy’s gracious home, we
explored the garden. I tested the lake water and found it too cold for a swim.
(I had dreamt of swimming in Lake Geneva off their private dock). Rosemarie made
luscious ice cream sundaes for us and topped them with fresh berries. Yum!
Then, once again , we four set out to burn some of those calories by a walk
through their idyllic neighborhood of St. Sulpice. Crepe paper flowers of
different colors decorated fences, trees, gates, and walls for several blocks!
The result was enchanting. This tradition related to a cultural celebration
down the street . We are guessing it was an Indian festival. There was feasting
and dancing on this summer Saturday evening. Now, it’s time for bed. I love to
awaken in this dream house, look out the window and really believe I’m staring
at Lake Geneva. Rosemarie and Guy arranged such a perfect Swiss holiday for us.
July 3
I look out the window and see several swans swimming near
the shore. There are boats on Lake Geneva on this sunny Sunday morning. We walk
to the nearby polytechnical college at my request. I saw their Information
Center building on our last trip here, but it was not yet open. The architect
achieved her goal of making this library immediately accessible. It’s spread
out on one floor with ramps branching out in different directions. The play of
light and shadow from the ovid cutouts is imaginative. Such an open inviting
space! Students sit on the carpeted floor in group conversations yet the
central shelving area is quiet. See this amazing, futuristic wavy, futuristic
building at http://library.epfl .
When we returned from our walk, I found the courage to jump
into Lake Geneva and swim ‘with’ the swans! The water was pleasant except for
some cold currents passing through it. The mountains lining the lake still have
some snow on them-very pretty backdrop.
Did one last washing of our clothes and hung them in the
garden. Drank Campari and fresh orange juice and watched them dry. This is an
exceptionally artful garden. There are vegetables, berries, fruit trees, a
swath of meadow in the middle with wildflowers, flowering bushes, a stately
alder and soft linden tree. This home once belonged to Guy’s grandfather. Their
son, Vincent and his wife, Sarah joined us for dinner. It brought back memories
of our wonderful trip to Santorini, for this young couple is vacationing there
soon. Rosemarie created a masterful dessert of fresh raspberries, meringue and
light custard cream. Delicious!
The same cultural festival that brought the Bollywood music
and dance provided fireworks tonight. We enjoyed them from the comfort of our
bedroom window. I loved the ‘snowballs’ like the standard bursts of color that
then shimmer with little bright lights! Another display new to me was firing
small ‘rosettes’ in sequence so they form a chain. We say adieu to Lausanne
tomorrow. How indulged I feel.
July 4
During the ten years our Swiss friends lived in the USA,
their three children were born. This morning they hung an American flag and a
Swiss flag out their windows facing Lake Geneva. Mike and I sang our national
anthem, then Guy and Rosemarie sang theirs. Felt good.
Our hosts asked if we’d like to take a motorboat ride around
the lake on our last day? Bien sur! But, the boat was several yards from the
deck. No problem, Guy takes his windsurf board to the motorboat, then pilots
the boat to shore where we board. This man has strength and balance. We took a
long boat ride under a clear blue sky. We tied up in Lausanne, then walked to
the International Olympic Committee headquarters to see a lovely statue of a
woman holding a dove….at least she WAS holding a dove. You see, someone took
the dove. Rosemarie, an artist, made another one and put it in the statue’s
empty hand. Bravo! We just had to see this. While we were there, a group of Chinese
tourists admired the statue and took pictures. When they realized the dove
creator was Rosemarie, they wanted a picture with her. Reflected glory feels
pretty good!
After a perfect summer lunch out on our friends’ lawn, we
took the train from Lausanne to Geneva. Our Hotel Brillant is right next to the
central train station. We join a friend for dinner at the Café de Paris and
thoroughly enjoyed our Entrecote, salad and French fries. It takes nerves of
steel to face the high cost of living in Europe. We pretend it’s “funny money.”
July 5
It’s easy to walk along the Lake from this hotel. No trains
run after 11pm, so it ‘s not too noisy to sleep and is very convenient. Did I
feel cool when someone shouted from a car, ‘La Gare Centrale?” and I quickly
replied “Tout droit, la.” Probably poor
grammar, but understandable French. After listening to our Swiss friends speak French,
I can understand a little bit more, so dare to speak more often. Well, that’s
unless I’m strolling in the lovely parks in which case “Fermez la bouche” makes
much more sense! Gnats swarm. Just when one cloud passes, another appears.
Yuck!
My mission today was the Botanical Garden Rosemarie
recommended. I passed a favorite restaurant, La Perle du Lac, at about 10 am
and thought I might have a small (less expensive ) salad there after my garden
tour.
The Edelweiss-Myths & Paradoxes exhibit was mesmerizing.
This is a favorite flower of mine. I am not alone. Starting in the late 19th
c., Alpine hikers used the flower as a symbol of conquering a mountain. Then royalty (Archduke Ferdinand’s wife,
Sissi) decorated their clothes and hair with it. Alas! The middle classes
dismayed the upper crust, by claiming it for their own. Did I disclose that “The
Sound of Music” is the only movie I like to see over again? Soon, the edelweiss
became commercial as cosmetic companies flaunted its’ antioxidant properties. A
romantic legend of the Snow Lady crying tears of edelweiss was told around the
world. Asterix ,of the comics, sought the flower as kind of Holy Grail. The
exhibition was mounted outdoors. Two-sided posters offered photographs and
facts. Plexiglass boxes displayed commercial and medical spinoffs. A little Swiss
cabin was surrounded by edelweiss.
I trekked through the heat , past some United Nations
buildings including the flag-filled Palais des Nations where demonstrators were
chanting and filming themselves as they urged the UN to protect the oppressed
in Ashraf.
At the Ariana glass and ceramic museum, I realized I was
starving. I selected a chocolate torte for my pre-lunch as nothing nourishing
looked enticing. I then waited at least 20 minutes to be served by the sole
waitress. As I waited, I eyed the little tables on the balcony overlooking Mont
Blanc. No openings. I waited some more. After eating inside, I cruised the
collection. Since my high school years when I actually was paid to select china
and crystal and silver to set a table for display in a department store
contest, I have loved setting a pretty table. Wouldn’t it be special if I loved
to cook as well? Albert Cohen’s ceramic statues were stimulating. At first they
seemed sad and scary. Then, I read his inscriptions full of insight and
wondering.
Then I went downstairs to their temporary exhibition called
“1001 Bowls”. It was one of those eye-opening exhibitions. The bowl has been
used for centuries. Who added the handle? Why decorate such a utilitarian
household object? A short film showed the 3-4 potters at work. Afterwards, I
studied and admired their work. Each had a separate room for display. Gorgeous
Korean and Swiss works beautifully presented.
I walked by the United Nations buildings once more. This
time there was a demonstration urging the UN to monitor the activities in
Ashraf.
Had Entrecote steak at Café du Paris. It is the only thing
they serve and they do a great job.
July 6
My Chocolate Factory mission failed this morning, but not
for want of effort. I followed our concierge’s directions, but didn’t see it on
Avenue Mont Blanc. So, I went to the Tourist Office, got new directions, and
walked into a chocolate shop with a different name. The clerks assured me it
was not chocolate factory. They curtly instructed me to go the Tourist Office!
Oh well. So, I crossed the bridge to another Tourist Information Office, asked
my question and was told reservations were required, at least 5 people must go
on each tour, and it was located way North where I’d been walking the day
before! Determined to see the Watch Museum, I gave up the chocolate factory
idea. However, during the day, a native mentioned a demonstration kitchen in
the back of a chocolate shop right on the lake. You guessed it, they address
was that of the first shop I visited. The two shop clerks will be so glad to
see me again! I entered the store, then walked straight to the back and saw a
kitchen, but no chocolate oozing out of cauldrons, no molds filled with
wondrous potions. When I asked for a demonstration of chocolate making, the
clerk replied, “It’s summer!” By this time I definitely craved the stuff, so I
walked back up Avenue Mont Blanc and entered a shop with large squares of different
varieties of chocolate. My choice burst with crackling fresh almonds. The milk
chocolate was divine.
Phillipe Patek Watch Museum is open only in the afternoon on
some weekdays, so this is the first time I actually got in. Only about ten
years old, the hundreds of timepieces are arranged by type: early clocks with
keys, decorated watches, automatons (articulated figures), watches as part of a
fancy fan, as part of a jewel box, music box, etc. Many jewels and fine metal
work. Of course kings and queens and
other notables’ watches are also displayed. It must have been quite a process,
asking for these noble gifts back in order to display them at the museum?
Nicholas II of Russia was so grateful to receive a timepiece
that he gifted the Phillipe Patek firm with an elaborate enameled wine carafe
and delicate wine cups.
My third visit to La Lyrique restaurant (next to the
theaters) was just as satisfying as the two previous trips. I ordered duck pate
with capers and some kind of tiny seeds on top served with greens. Washed it
down with Dole wine, made in the Valais. The food is wonderful and the service
flawless.
Walked across the Mont Blanc bridge, said “Good-Bye” to the
Jet d’Eau, admired the clock made of flowers plus some sculptures, and decided
that I just didn’t have the energy to take a bus to the Alexander Solzhenitzen
(spelling?) exhibit. I had walked to two museums in the theater district that
are closed this month, and the heat meant I was spent! I don’t mind getting
lost in mild weather, but it is pretty horrible in the heat.
What a wonderful trip it has been! Each of our European
hosts showed us what they love about their country. Now that I have seen more
lake towns, I know there are many as lovely as Geneva. I admire the cities that
retain their characters through centuries of study and restoration. It is
easier to replace these graceful old buildings and squares, but the results are
seldom as picturesque. We celebrate the genius of Rome’s MAXXI and the soaring
curves of Lausanne’s polytechnic college’s Information Center. Guess there is
room for modern and preserved architecture.
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