Montreal - 2012

Montreal April 2012

It’s always counterintuitive to leave Seattle when it’s sunny! Oh well, on to Montreal for Mike’s meeting with Hema Quebec. One of those travel inconveniences appeared when we noticed our plane seats were rows apart.  My seatmate was ebullient following his first helicopter skiing in Alaska. He said it was the most terrified he’d been in all his 52 years. Conquering that fear apparently left him exhilarated and ready to try it again one day. It was fun hearing his candid satisfaction and sensing his wonder.

We arrived at the PURPLE Hyatt at dinnertime, so walked to the nearby Brasserie housed in a glass elongated greenhouse-like structure right on the sidewalk. Who cares?  What matters is the fantastic Coquille St. Jacques, perfect blend of scallops, scallions, shrimp, wine, spinach, BUTTER and cheese.

What to do when it’s a freezing, windy, and wet Monday and all the museums are closed? One concierge suggested shopping. By the time I donned my wool ‘Nanny’ hat, my wool scarf, my woolen coat, I was already feeling a bit encumbered. The money belt I use adds at least 2” all around. Then I started stuffing my pockets: cell phone, earpiece, ready cash (too hard to go into money belt for small purchases). As I waddled down the street, I wondered where were the cute shops the concierge mentioned? All I saw were sex shops! It was so very cold; I headed to the enclosed mall, then back to the Concierge Desk.

I asked a different desk staff what to do on a Monday in Montreal? He suggested

reading magazines at the Indigo Bookstore near the cute shops. Wait a minute; he sent me the opposite direction past…well….cute shops! I now forgave the first concierge for sending me to the shady part of town. I simply misunderstood. It was as cozy as promised. With my outstanding chocolat chaud, I joined the other weather refugees at tables near the windows. Naturally, I browsed the children’s literature section. The store clerk introduced me to her favorite picturebook author, Jeffers. This Brit’s charming tales remind me of Jasper Johns. Are they for adults or children??  Not sure.

Having a bit of a pity party because my hamstring once again, tightened up. Rallied at the thought of a glass of wine in the PURPLE bar festooned with PURPLE poofs and petals and chairs and flowers and major poofy chandelier.  Unfortunately, I called my friend ‘Pierre’ although his name is Jean-Claude, then I told Lou the book I’m reading talks about Kansas, but forgot he’s from Iowa. These are friends I’ve seen all over the world every few months!  The meeting group then walked to Bar T, featuring Portuguese food. I daringly ordered “Ris de Veau” in other words, sweetbreads. The sauce and meat were delicious.

Tuesday afternoon we walked to beautiful Old Montreal. Each visit I must drink in the inspirational beauty of the Basilica of Notre Dame. Such delicate splendor!

Mike and I walked along the harbor to the Science Museum featuring a new Star Wars Identity exhibition created in Montreal. Combining the display of the movie sets and costumes with musings about human identity was ingenious. It is thought provoking, interactive, and entertaining. Catch it when it hits your town!

We later joined our Montreal friend Francine for a delicious dinner at Café de Nouveau Monde. It’s located inside the theater hall. This liver fan has been feasting here where there are still carnivores. Had a nifty molten chocolate dessert with hazelnuts, rich sauce, and ice cream. In other words, a classy sundae.

The Contemporary Art museum is across the street, but in between temporary exhibitions. I did enjoy the Abstraction hall and the children’s imaginative art installations. On to Indigo’s for lunch, then to the Musee de Beaux Arts, reinvented since our last visit. I was stunned when I entered and saw a glass window so like the one Edith Faste created for our bathroom! The artist was Marcelle Ferron, 1972, “untitled”. The Lyonel Feininger exhibition was educational. We inherited Dorothea’s Feininger print of The Church of the Minorities II.” I’ve always liked it. To see an original painting in the context of his cartoon, photography, and sketches was fascinating. There is a stunning presentation of fine jewelry in the Decorative Arts wing. Looked like Tiffany’s Plus.

After my trek, my hamstring was sprung, so I took Bus 24 back towards the hotel. The student demonstrations forced the bus to go out of his way and circle back. I read (in my poor French) in the newspaper that students protest paying more for tuition. It would be a shock after having no tuition for years and years. There have been over 160 demonstrations since January. Tonight I join Mike for the Speakers Dinner. Should be fun.

We ate at the Bar J just across from our hotel on Jeanne Mance and St. Catherine St. I am so glad I dared to order Ris de Veau because these sweetbreads were delicious. Our Montreal friends reminded me that eating liver as I do is a bit more daring  given the function of our liver in digestion! Nothing like hanging out with medical types.

I rode the artful Montreal Metro to the Olympic Park . I was reminded of a long ago visit when Dad had a Bar Association meeting in Montreal . I headed for the Insectarium where I learned I weigh the same as 3 million ants. This small museum points out the many ways humans mimic insect behavior. Humbling thought.

On to the Botanical Gardens to see the thousands of butterflies touted in the brochure I read. After limping (tight hamstring!) past passing several buildings, I finally find the entrance. The plants are lovely, especially the orchids. I do see some owl butterflies, but they are like lovely moths. What misleading publicity! At the exit I express my disappointment. The helpful staff member said, “But there right behind the green curtain.” Huh? I never saw one. Oh well, I dragged my gimpy leg along and reentered the greenhouse, retracing my steps and seeing only owl butterflies. I asked the gardener who explained I was seeing moths. Perhaps I wanted to go across the way to the butterflies? This time I entered through the famous green curtain and was in paradise. I grabbed the first bench and plopped down for 30 minutes of wonder as colorful butterflies twirled around and past me. A cobalt blue and yellow one alighted on my hair.

It was so fun resting me leg and seeing the wonder on most people’s faces as they entered the butterfly area. Cool teens, toddlers, parents too. The afternoon brought warm memories of Sundays spent seeing the banana trees in the greenhouse at Manito Park in my hometown of Spokane.

I returned to Brasserie T for foie gras and a glass of wine. Right outside my window was an acrobat practicing on the public lawn. Very Montreal!

Our last full day here we awakened to SNOW! The Starbucks had skylights and glass walls so we could admire the snow, but not be freezing. I popped my handy dandy hand warmers into my gloves and walked with Mike to where?  The Apple Store, of course. I think Apple should pay Mike for marketing their products. Instead, we bought a hard drive in case our odd-acting laptop expires and takes the data with it.